Maxim

ncix.ca is probably going to be the cheapest for you. I have a very high end gaming desktop (I build them once a year) and I run a corsair AX1200. You won't need something like that, but I can tell you Corsair is a very good brand. Newegg to canada is rather expensive to ship.. same with TD, but if you find a good deal, it would be worth it. Would the ax1200 be to much though? I am planning to make a gaming pc out of the one I have. For pretty much every single graphics card setup out there (with a few exceptions) a 600-watt power supply is enough. If you plan on running very high-end cards or CrossFireX/SLI then 850 will usually handle it. Only time you truly need more is if you've got some absurdly powerful hardware in there (6990's, GTX 590's, overclocking like mad, etc.)

Seasonic, Corsair, Antec are probably my top 3.

I don't see anything wrong with his windows score. It maxes out at 7.9. He's maxed out for graphics. He's one notch away for processor and RAM. Only way to get RAM to 7.9 is to run at 1866mhz or higher. I haven't seen a processor score a 7.9 yet legitimately (haven't done much searching for Sandy Bridge-E benchmarks yet). And to get a 7.9 in hard drive you need to run a RAID array. I've got a 2600K at 4.5, 8GB 1866mhz RAM, dual 6970's, and a 120GB Intel 320 SSD. Even at over 5ghz you'll still score a 7.8 for processor. Please don't use WEI as a legitimate benchmark.

ASUS has a couple KILLER machines at Best Buy right now for great prices Core i5, 6GB RAM, 640GB Hard drive, rated 7 hours battery life (probably closer to 5 useable) = $550 ASUS #1 Core i5, 4GB RAM, 500GB Hard drive, battery life not rated (from the ones I've played around with it's about 4 hours useable) = $480 ASUS #2

Fold seats down. Fire forward. Or just take the seats out and fire forward.

There wasn't a single piece of punctuation in this whole sentence.

If you built your box right and you're using your subsonic filter properly you should be able to play anything you want.

From what I've personally read and seen Lil B does not clip in any of his songs. Gucci Mane and Wocka Flocka are also clean tracks so they should bump quite nicely without fear of damaging equipment.

The delete key is prominently featured on nearly every Windows keyboard ever, even for ultra-portable 13" machines. ASUS managed to unclude it on their 11" Ultrabook. ASUS' Zenbook Samsung's Series 9 Toshiba's Portege You can forward delete on a Mac by holding FN and hitting Delete.

Got my girlfriend one while they were on sale and then both my dad and my girlfriend's mom bought them. It's quite a nice machine. Twice as nice when you consider the price tag. I haven't had an issue with the three I've set up and played around on.

ASUS 15" i5 laptop 15" ASUS laptop with the same hardware specs as the 13" MacBook Pro that sells for $1200. ASUS is normal priced at $480. Was on sale 2 weeks ago at $450. But they're not THAT overpriced...

Macs actually use quite nice internals. The latest Intel processors, Intel manufactured motherboards, generally Crucial RAM, high quality screens, all aluminum body, etc. They just charge a fuck ton for it because they market it well and the vast majority of people don't know what they're buying anyway. Have you ever gone to http://www.speedtest.net/ and tried clocking your internet speed. Check both speed and ping (I believe one test will do both). 3-4 Mbps download is about the same as a 3G wireless network. 8-10+ Mbps is what's usually recommended for gaming and full HD video streaming and stuff. If you've got a slower speed close to that of 3G and you're trying to load full webpages it can definitely cause issues. Many phones use "mobile" pages in their web browsers for this exact reason. Less data to load and less time to download it.

The computer has a slot for a graphics card on the inside so you're ready for upgrades. You'll need 2 things. A graphics card and an upgraded power supply to run it. For a $200 budget, here's a nice combo: Radeon HD 6790 1GB: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161377 Antec 550W Modular PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371016 If you're one of those Nvidia folk, the 550Ti stacks up close to the 6790 in performance http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127573

I really, really hope this isn't how you troubleshoot computer issues. How the hell would you update a laptop's firmware? I...I just don't know what to say. How's the Mac running slow? Booting up slower than a previous Mac? Applications loading slower than normal? Webpages taking forever to load? Could be anything from a defective hard drive to a dying wireless router.

Also gonna depend MASSIVELY on the box.

And this is why we open the instruction manuals and look at wiring diagrams before haphazardly installing hundreds of dollars of audio equipment. This is a great way to blow some speakers or fry some amps.

Pure silver is the most conductive metal, followed closely by pure copper and pure gold. The adapter I linked form Knu isn't actually silver (it's made of nickel). I was more referring to the color than what it's made of.

Damn man!! Perfect! Yes it's for my JL amp! Perfect! EXACTLY what I was looking for! Haha wow where did u find it in the knukonceptz site???? I was looking all over that site for it! Thanks man! Mobile Audio -> Installation Accessories. 3rd page

Nipples :yahoo: :clapping:

0-gauge to what? I'm assuming 4-gauge for that JL amp in your sig. http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=SSGR0 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16846_Stinger-SPT821-Gold.html Those should both get the job done. One silvery, one gold-y.

Well shit then that goes out the window. Grab the one off Amazon then. The reviews seem to say it works and has a power adapter. And even if it sucks and dies you only need it working for literally 30 seconds.

I still want ever use proper spelling ..

Yes and no? I can't see the other side of it but it looks like it just gives you half the SATA connection. From what's in the picture it goes from USB to a SATA data connection. There's no power cable/connection in the photo. The reviews say it had a molex (4-pin) to SATA power cable included, so I'd assume there's a connector for power built into the side of the device we can't see. I'd say swing by Best Buy and grab one of these. You won't even need the CD that comes with it, just the cable. Assuming your store has it in stock, you can pick it up today and not have to wait/pay extra for shipping.

LOL I love this guy!

An observation like this to uneducated people is proof to them that it doesn't work. Also, you have a lacking understanding of electricity and how LED's work and are observing nothing out of the ordinary. LED's do NOT only light up when DC current is applied and by stating that when the video starts you're spreading false information to viewers and pretty much saying the DD-1 isn't detecting DC current when in fact there is nmo DC current there. I posted a response on the video that should summarize it pretty concisely. I'd say if you want to not look like and not know what you're talking about but claim that someone else is wrong then take the video down. It mkaes you look uneducated but, even worse, just spreads false information.