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Maxim

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Everything posted by Maxim

  1. If you've got 2 12's off 1200 watts and you're NOT hitting 120dB you're probably doing something horribly wrong.
  2. The Q was always regarded to be Fi's "sound quality" line. It's got a bit more power handling. To be honest, all of Fi's woofers sound great on music if they're in the right box, so I'd say it depends more on how much power you'll be throwing at the thing. EDIT: Last summer I was putting a system in for my best friend. Was stuck between the Q and the SSD off of an Audiopipe 15001D. Wound up going with the SSD D2 with the flatwind coil and the BP Power option. Didn't throw the full 1500 at it. Set it to a little over 1200 rms. The sub didn't even get warm. It probably could have taken more but it also wasn't my car and didn't want to deal with him potentially frying the thing playing some clipped music.
  3. I think he copy/pasted the path off of his computer. Looks like he had them stored on an external drive (F:?)
  4. Not sure... I have to go measure it. It's fairly large though
  5. Top Search Queries for Stevemeadedesigns.com Query Percent of Search Traffic 1 smd 12.47% 2 steve meade 4.27% 3 ces 2011 2.59% 4 meade 1.85% 5 dubstep maker 1.22% 6 drake sucks 1.09% 7 fi car audio 0.98% I laughed so hard.
  6. I'm seeing 83618. Damn this place is crawling on up, even over the course of a month. Good for you Steve. I bet you're glad you moved to a dedicated server!
  7. how would you know? there like what 17? He means the girl is gonna make the rooms into whatever she wants and all he'll get is the garage to use as his man-cave.
  8. No offense to Trippi or Meade or anyone else who pours their heart (and wallet) into car audio, but this build takes it IMO. (Posting the UBL first so you don't have to scroll through the comments) Uninterrupted Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/58717-robola-46s-beryllium-bmw-323ci/ Original Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/57269-beryllium-bmw-323ci/
  9. Fuck the Hoopty is BLACKED OUT. Looks damn good Steve. I've especially always been in love with the black/white caddy logo on the front. Pop open that back and give us a pic with the 15K's
  10. What the fuck kind of question is this? With the room you've got back there, you're probably looking at just 1 10" or 12" sub in a ported box after displacement. Which will still hit hard in a good box. I'll see if I've got time today or tonight to whip up a design for you. I've designed a few boxes for behind-the-seat setups.
  11. Stop yelling at me! Yes, it's very doable. One to each voice coil. Better make sure your coils aren't D1's are you're gonna fry that sub.
  12. Popped a few panels and took a few pics this morning. Didn't get all the way to the sub unfortunately. Looking like I'll have to pull one of the 3rd row seats to fully remove the panel. On to the pics! They're taken on my cell phone, so disregard the poor quality. It's also damn cold outside Here's the back with the 3rd row folded down. You can see where the sub is. Front Door Rear Door The horrible location of the factory tweets (not sure how I'll get to these) And poppin' some panels Didn't actually manage to get the whole panel in front of the sub off. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have more time to work on it. If you guys have any suggestions let me know. I like the idea of keeping a stock look. Also considering the idea of hiding an amp under one of the seats for the sub. This one caught my eye, mostly cause I only need it to do like 200 RMS @ 1 ohm and Audiopipe always seems reasonably cheap, even if they're not the best amps.
  13. TOO MUCH RAKLING!!! http://www.secondskinaudio.com/vibration-mat/damplifier-pro.php http://www.secondskinaudio.com/sound-deadening-materials/hand-roller.php Grab a Trunk Pack (20 Square Feet) and a wooden roller and put that shit all over the inside of your trunk lid. If you've got any left over, patch up any trouble spots. That oughta stop that darned rakling!
  14. Eighty bucks a set? That's like half of what I expected them to be I'll definitely consider them now. The tough part about this is that I work at Best Buy part time (I know, I know) and I get a decent discount on audio equipment. I was actually looking at a set of Kenwood components for $60. I'd bet the T3's are a solid upgrade from those but I'm also not looking to do much. Keep in mind these are still going off the headunit and I have to buy 2 sets. And what am I going to do with that second pair of tweets? I'm trying to see if there's a hidden pair somewhere in my car that I haven't found yet but I can't seem to locate it. Would I be better off buying 4 6.5"s and 2 tweets than 2 sets of components? My other plan is to ditch the stock tweeter locations and mount a tweeter in each A-pillar and each B- or C-pillar. The stock tweets are way up front on the dash firing up into the windshield, which I'm sure is a horrid spot for speakers. From what I'm seeing online it's a 10" sub, not an 8". And there's like 5" of mounting depth, so I'm definitely gunning for a shallow mount here. IDK what to run for an amp, I figure I'll match that to whatever sub I find that I like. Unfortunately, no DC subs will be gracing my doorstep for this one.
  15. I feel like these would be overkill for what I'm doing lol However, I'd love to run something by T3 at some point. From what I'm seeing, It's a 2-ohm, 50-watt, shallow mount 10" subwoofer in there. I wanted to cry when I read that online. I'm gonna try to pull it out this morning and see what I'm dealing with. I doubt there's much room to work with back there so I'm thinking I'll stick with a shallow mount if I don't want to fiberglass. Gonna have to second skin the fuck out of the rear quarter panel
  16. So I've finally made up my mind and I'm gonna start on a few audio upgrades. I've got a 2003 Honda Pilot. Each door has a 6.5" woofer. 2 1" tweets are up front mounted in the dash. And an 10" stock "sub"woofer is in the cargo area. What I'm wondering is if anyone has any ideas on some good speakers to go with. This isn't going to be a huge build. Sorry to disappoint. Just looking to replace stock stuff. It's just not enough for me. I'm hoping to keep a mostly stock look. Gonna try to find time to pop a few panels and see what I'm dealing with for upgrading the sub. It might wind up being a replacement of door speakers and tweets and then a custom fiberglass sub enclosure in the back. I'll get pics up tomorrow if it's not a rainy mess. I plan on trying to keep the stock radio if possible or snag one from a newer Pilot that has an AUX input. CD's are fine for now but I'd like to just be able to use my iPod. I just LOVE having the volume and input controls on my steering wheel and if I replace the headunit with an aftermarket one I'll lose those. TL;DR If anyone's got speakers and an amp in mind that they think would be good for the job, let me know.
  17. Do you have Service Pack 2 for XP? If so, it should just be available from Automatic Updates (possibly listed as a "optional" update"). If you don't have SP2, go get SP2. http://support.microsoft.com/kb/322389
  18. 
Cooling: The 2010 Q now features a solid pole piece that allows the addition of the Helicool cooling system that will allow an additional 200-500 watts of power handling depending upon install and scenario. Bottom line this option increases thermal power handling capacity over a “Stock” Q. 
 
P Chamfer: This is a chamfer on the end of the pole, it helps to bring the air down around inside of the motor and helps cool the coil better. It also helps relieve the pressure underneath the dustcap. Please note if you select “Cooling” this option is included in the cooling package.
 
High QTS: This option is for users who intend on using the new Q series woofers in only a sealed enclosure.
 
Spider: This option adds an additional spider to the spider pack to help with mechanical power handling and keeping the moving assembly under control.
 
I Heat Ring: This option is a machined aluminum ring in the gap that lowers the inductance of the voice coil which allows it to play up a little higher in the frequency range and have better overall transient response. Please note that you can NOT select low Qts and the I Heat Ring options together. Taken directly from Fi's site. The Tech tab on the left has lots of goodies. Fi makes some solid speakers. I ran an SSD off 1000 watts no problems so I'd say a Q off ~1200 would be fine. If you'd be more comfortable with the Cooling upgrade to increase power handling I'd say go for it.
  19. He said internals dumbass. He's having new rims delivered.
  20. sarcasm? No I actually liked that part lol. Just lit fucking everyone up. It was kinda awesome.
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