LSN2meBoom916

Pretty sure it's San Quinn - San Francisco Anthem I know I have it and it's listed on myspace music... Lemme know if thats not enough info. The orig info is: Global Deejays - The Sound of San francisco.

Dude- no matter what you build, or how you build it....Someone with a Bandpass boner will try to call it that.....It's Lawrence's Maxima ALL over again. No bandpass for joos dummies!

It would most likely make it sound horrible and potentially ruin some subs in the process. Do it like I suggested port on the top/woofer side so the ports are all equal. it's not "pushing air out" like an exhaust on headers....it's vibrating/oscilaationg that amount of air trapped in the port volume, but it's kinda like running 3 motors on the same pipe all in diff directions. and yes kbreudi...I pwn. hahahaha J/K ONLY KIDDING! I never win on speed posting. yay me.

"Looks cool n all".....but it's not acoustically sound (pun pun) A port like that^ would cause the sub farthest back (towards the rear of the vehicle) to "see" a veeeerrrry Loooooooong port, and the next closest to the front would "see" a shorter port and the 3rd (closest to front) sub would "see" the shortest port. At least that's MY "amatuer-ass" assessment of that design, any of my fellow SMD "Box heads" can help me out here, I HAVE stuck my foot in my mouth b4, it is pretty early and I have had no coffee yet.... But I still think that design would not work as you think it would. You need to port each chamber SEPERATELY at least, and Identically if you want the output to "add coherently" aka reinforce the output of one sub to the next so they add up rather than cancel each other out.

It would depend on a lot of variables. 1: what subs you run (the MA's, the eD's I suggested, the JL's, etc) 2: How much room you have/how long of a port will fit-the TOTAL VOLUME of the port is what matters so you have to consider how much air the port itself displaces, how much the sub displaces and tune the port to work that LEFT OVER (net) amount of air in each box. I would suggest either PCV tubes that you could use 90degree bends to make the tube/port fit or else a custom rectangular L shaped port that would look pretty nice IMO as a diamond (tilted square) port next to each sub. maybe 4"x4" x12-16 or so. You gotta do the math to get it right tho, or throw the numbers through a box design program.

Looks really nice. Shop built I see.....says "Freemont? Freemond? Free...somthing?" I woulda stuck w/ the JL's or swapped em out for newer ones. I'd say if you wanna get louder but keep the same setup/box/amps/etc you need to put the most efficient woofers in the enclosure as possible. I'd go with some Elemental Designs eD 11Ov.2's in there in place of those MA's. http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/product_i...;products_id=34 Another option would be cut ur sub count in half, make one of the sub holes for each pair a "10in plate" with a port in it so you could run each sub in a 1.2cft ported box and see how loud that gets. Would cut down cost buying 1/2 as many subs and you could use the same setup. Otherwise it's rebuilding time buddy.

nOPE 10 DB= Twice as loud, it just takes twice the: 1: Power OR 2:SD/cone area to gain 3db...just to clarify.(I know it was kinda mentioned) +1 for you buddy...= a free Tshirt at a db drag generally. 160!?!.....I honestly was w/ you Steve on the "hold your horses guys, lets not write the check our System might not be able to cash" (when folks were armchair quarterbackin the ###'s guesses)....but now....I am a Believer. Fuckin WOW dude. Props. I GOTTA hear this thing. Maybe when it's all done n dandy, & Mr. meade aint so busy I'll stop by The Meade residence w/ some of that firewater, and beg em to run it for me. I'll sign the waiver and everyting

Very nice work on the console/switchbox. Keep it up bro.

Buy another mag for it. should fix it. STOP venting the gas by pressing the valve relaese-you can rip the seal out doing that. Did you leave this gun loaded with BBs for a long time? It could be that the spring is ruined if so-and you need either a new mag or new mag feed spring.

I almost posted this as a "what will the hoopty be like" a while back when i 1st saw it...but i figg'd I'd get laughed at for bein stupid-silly. HAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHA You stupid-silly!

My AIM SN is same as on here minus the 916. I warn you tho if you're using Trillion or Skype it will kill my DSL connection after 2 IMs. I dont know why but IT ALWAYS does this. Hit me up if ur not using one of those evil progs. Amen Brothur (Goes da Hogan). Holla at ya folks we have ur back @ SMD.

Ok cool. I just wanted to make sure. My motto is generally- When you're building it custom, as long as YOU know it will work, don't let anybody tell ya otherwise. And yea "T-shirt material" or the cotton/polyester blends seem to work best IMO. Old Tshirts are fine for pods and smaller jobs...but when you have a BIG job to cover... Kinda sucks trying to join 10 Tshirts together so It's easier to just get some sheets of material. But then again, I'mma tiny person so My shirts don't offer much material.

Ok just put em in ur build thread I'll drop by there once it's bumped.

As far as attaching to the door panel you can add small pieces of wood 1/4"-1/2"thick with strong glue (CA or other strong epoxy/crazy glue) and use as thick wood as you can. Then (this assumes the pod is built apart from the doorpanel) you can screw throu the pod/add on piece through the door panel and into the wood behind it to secure it by making a wood-doorpanel-wood sandwich.

Srry bro-ham I been bizzy. Ok-your answer= MAYBE....but prolly not. What is each sub rated "ohm wise"....The Earthquake sub is SVC (one voice coil) and it's 4ohm...correct? The L5 Kicker 12" sub is DVC (2 coils)...but what configuration? Dual 2ohm? Dual 4ohm? This we need to know-it wont say on the FRONT of the sub, you will have to look at the backside on the magnet it will say dual 2ohm or dual 4ohm. HOPEFULLY it's dual 4 ohm becasue then you would dealing with 3-4 ohm voice coils. If thats the case the amp will see that as essentially 3 SVC subs and it will be easier to wire correctly. Please post answers to those^^ Q's and we can proceed. Sorry for the late response man but I have a day Job, a project or 2 at all times and I try to keep up w/ the SMD Q's.

Any progress is good progress. Looks like a fun project car. Nice and clean from the looks. I would Fglass the interior sompin fierce....all of it. And fill it w/ audio...NO screens But maybe thats just me.

Check this guy^^ out. I remember back when you (Tex) started on that center console...all new and unsure of yourself. Now here you are handin out Glassing advice like a vet. How the time flies. Oh and he's right on w/ that info. I wonder where he heard that stuff?

Watts?........rms?........... Freakin Eleventy Billion that's what! And that's rated conservatively. Don't be hatin youngsters...them pups are some O.G. bangers! I miss me some Thump 10's now.

Then that would be da koolest shit eva son!And +1 point Meade. Get it on video and add that one to the "eye popped out" video it'd go down as the new WTF video of the year. Glad to hear Super Meade still f*cks up every now and then like us mortals. I melted a 2"x3" hole in the vinyl cover of my driver side visor w/ a drop light back when I was buildin my current system...I threw a Kicker sticker over the hole and called it a day.

Glad I could help. Really? What definitive info are you basing this on? No. On your amp the +'s and -'s are connected inside the amp in one distribution "block" hence the term monoblock amp. You can double up your +'s and -'s on the same terminals on the amp or use all the +'s and -'s and just hook one sub to each set it will be the same ohm load seen by the amp. As far as mixing subs-it is 50/50 whether it will sound ok or not, plus you personally might not hear the difference but a trained ear or someone with knowledge of GOOD/BAD audio might tell from listening to it. Here's my position: MIXING SUBWOOFER SIZES: It can be done, and it can sound good/loud and clear and even BETTER than not mixing them. It is BY NO MEANS easily done, so unless you have: A PHD in the Field of Acoustical engineering, A magical Ouija Board with all the answers, Or a CRAZY amount of LUCK, I would not even attempt it w/ out MUCHO RESEARCH. From what I have read/seen/heard/figured out myself, mixing subs is just like mixing any other speakers in a system, the only difference is that subs GENERATE LOTSA FORCE. Thus, they can have an impact on how other speakers/subs act when sharing airspace (BE-IT ENCLOSURE AIRSPACE or simply INTERIOR CABIN SPACE-i.e. same car/vehicle). So the key to mixing and matching speakers/subs is really dependent on your ability to predict HOW those speakers/subs will interact in the same area (here's where the PHD comes in) So to figure out "how 2 speakers/subs/assembly of moving parts" motivated by the "magic" of bipolar (+ & -) electricity (I know, it's kinda scary) will interact with each other and have any amount of accuracy...you kinda gotta know ALL the characteristics of ALL the parts and materials involved or do A RIDICULOUS amount of testing to form enough "generalizations" as to the outcomes of different combinations of parts so that you can say "this will work best/well/not suck". That said, the main thing involved in successfully mixing/matching subs is being able to predict how those products will work w/ each other and that can be PLANNED as long as you know all the stuff I just said ^^^^^. If you have a small sub that hits higher frequencies better than a big sub and a big sub that hits super low frequencies with ease, the ideal would be use them together and just tell them to only do what they are good at. The prob with that is in CAR AUDIO you are really limited on space and can't have 70 speakers each playing a tiny range fo freq's and you have to let a sub/speaker cover a wider RANGE of freq's. It's just like A COMPONENT SET of midrange speakers. Think about GOOD comp sets. The XOVER IS KEY. It tells each super specialized speaker what freq's to play and all that impedence matched/hi-tech X-over talk that means your MB Quarts and Focal mids will sound awsome and much better than ur sony xploders and audiovox garbage. So If you limit your mixed & matched subs, and only let them do what they are good at while keeping them from trying to do each others jobs (play the same freq's) you can actually build a SUPER EFFICIENT setup, that sounds better than a "normal" one. If you crossover the subs/speakers at different freq's you should have no OVERLAP and thus no probs at all. Like maybe your 15's (or biggest woofers present) playing @10hz-35hz, the 12's @ 35hz- 50hz, 10's @ 50hz-80hz and some 8's @ 80-200hz, and your mids on up from there. you should have the most balanced system EVER. Thats exactly how CRAZY home audio guys do it and they get some CRAZY sound outta a setup like that. The only diff is in a HOME audio environment you have less PRESSURE cuz the room/interior cabin is so much bigger and less limitations on space taken up by a sub box for 1-12" that's the size of ur fridge. It happens. ....from the PINNED post- http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...=3938&st=20 I siad My piece in it trying to help... then they just kept throwing more and more confusion in at the end and NOT reading what had already been said so I gave up on that thread. If you REALLY wanna know-just read my posts on that thread-it's not a yes or no answer and I guess the majority just cant handle the grey area. ~Chris

8 ga power and ground wire is "ok"...as in it will work, but the question rally is for how long, and will it limit your system... I would upgrade to 4ga power and ground cables or run 2 lengths of 8ga for the power and ground since 2 8ga=1 4ga wire. You want to "feed" the amp as much power as possible so it can make the most power it can with out stressing itself or heating up since that wil cause distortion, sound bad, and eventually ruin your system. Make sure your ground cable is under 18"-just ground it to the chasis of the car as close to the amp as possible, and use the biggest cable you can for the ground (4ga or bigger would be good). Also make sure where you ground it you sand off or remove the paint so it's a nice clean contact point since paint will inhibit the flow of current and make a bad ground or make it harder for your amp to do its job. I would experiment with box placement as every car is a bit different. It's "easier" to get good sound by pointing the subs back (towards the rear) so I would say go withthaty unless you think you could point the sub(s) forward and seal all the way around your box so no air/bass can go anywhere but forward. That method works too but it requires more time and effort to seal it properly. At this power level you do not neeed a new alternator. The most powerful battery you can get would be a good idea tho, and upgrade the ground at your battery for sure (add another big ground cable from battery to chassis).

Classy. <--envious of that kinda workspace and customer base.

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...ideoid=11435658

Since your amp is a MONO amp(1 channel) it will "see" anything/everything you hook up to it as the same "load" or a "sum" of "loads" (together) Since your amp says it will put out 350rms at 4 ohm and DOES NOT say you can run it at any lower impedence (ohms) than 4, you should run your 1-Earthquake 12" that has 1 single voice coil (measured to be 4ohm), you would do as Xtremespl suggested and hook the positive(+) from the amp to the positive (+) on ur sub, and do the same from negative (-) to negative/amp to sub. That way you amp will be putting out 350rms/continuous watts and 700max to you 1-12" sub. My GUESS is it is ratted at 1100max @ 2 ohms but don't worry bout that until you have another sub to run.

http://fiberglassforums.com/showthread.php?t=672 That and I'd recommend "Pro" Rubberized undercoat by Duplicolor (rattle can) or Rhino liner (roll on). The regular stuff sucks balls and will scrape/scratch off, takes longer to dry, & smells like Tar. Has worked well for me as shown On the box I did for my co-workers 2004 Civic. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...?showtopic=8190