littleitaly1990

For those of you who don't know, a Rude Goldberg machine is basically a bunch of small simple machines (i.e. lever, wheel, incline plane) combined to achieve a simple task. One example is this really cool one by Honda: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4187430023476942057 Well I need to make one for physics class, and basically I decided to do it without a group ( because I would probably get stuck with some lazy mofos). So I will probably get the help of a few friends and maybe family and build the most kick ass machine possible. Anyone have any idea as to what the machines goal can be, or any types of machines they would like to see put in there....I will make a vid of it when it is all functional... I want to use... Fire, strings being cut, music/speakers, electricity, incline planes, levers, wheels, and anything else that someone can think of.... Physics is my thing so I am going to have fun with this...

Subs up port back will be better in a Jeep

As long as you do a good enough alt and big 3, and remember to not turn you electric on without your car and let your system play, then an extra battery for that set up would be a little unnecessary. Although in the long run an upgraded/second batt is a good idea.

Unless you have a high output alt, you will need it...but I would say just get the alt first...a high output alt will never hurt your system and will always help, especially since most people don't run their systems with their cars off, extra batteries (until a certain level) tend to be useless.

Hell yea congrats bro

8IIII3

ohhh yea...fuses can be really gay and look completely like they are fine and turn out to be blown...if you have any lying around I would try to replace them...

A burnt wire or corroded wire somewhere could happen, or just a loose wire...hmmmm it might be a computer problem which would mean your S.O.L. without a dealer

BL's will be way louder, especially 15s....your choice on the car though...

yea, and keep in mind most vehicles have two fuse boxes, one in the car, and one under the hood,... It would be a good idea to search both of those for any burnt/ loose fuses and fix the problem. That should help.

Well it depends on the subs voice coil configuration... if you can wire them through a mix of series and parallel to a load that isn't too low for the amp, you will be all set. And thanks Mick, I knew I missed something!

I don't know what it is, but I know how to use it!!! LMFAO

LOL I was thinkin we could add like a list of respectable companies and their products, or move that product ratings section from miscellaneous into NEWB haha ...this way, instead of trying to do a search (which is difficult when someone has never used forums and doesn't realize their is a search bar, ie. me way back in the day; or when there is a 4 letter minimum search and they wanna look up btl.) the newbs will know right where to come. And questions about basics in that section will be welcome, because let's face it, we all were bumpin sony's at one time or another, wired like shit, with a walmart head unit, and we needed guidance too!

With a burb you can probably pull off four 18s or 6 15s, those things are huge.

I think we need like a newb area in the site, where general information can be found quickly and easily, all bundled in one, so I decided to start by making like a short (you could call it that compared to just going to bcae.com or whatever that site is called) explanation of what ohms are and how they relate to car audio. I call it, the idiots guide to Wiring woofers, and if there are any errors, misleading info, hard to understand info, or anything you want to add, please let me know so I could change it up! Ohms law is a pretty complicated thing (at least in setups with multiple subs and weird ohm loads), but the basics are easy. Ohm's law is V=IR: Voltage = Current x Resistance. The lower your impedance (ohms) the more heat will be produced. If an amplifier is stable down to say x ohms, then using ohms law you can wire down your subs to that x or higher and be safe. Subs can either be wired directly to an amp, parallel, or series. Each speaker and subwoofer will specify the speakers impedance, usually either SVC (single voice coil) 2 or 4 ohms, or DVC (dual voice coil) 1 2 or 4 ohms in car audio applications. Home audio speakers tend to yield higher impedance levels. When you wire a system one of the most important things to remember is to make sure the impedance level is not below the level that the amplifier is stable down to, as this will very likely cause failure and a destroyed amplifier. Determining what impedance lever your amp is seeing is easy. The first thing to do is look at the speakers. They will tell you whether the are DVC or SVC. If they are SVC, and you plan on directly wiring the speaker to the amp (pos sub to pos on amp, and neg sub to neg on amp) then whatever ohm your speakers are will be what your amp sees. Therefore, if you have a single voice coil speaker @ 4ohms (which the manufacturer will tell you what impedance it is) wired directly to it's own amplifier (or amplifier channel), the amplifier will see 4 ohms. If you wish to power 2 of these same subs on the same amp (or channel) then you can wire either parallel (pos sub1 to pos sub2 to amp, neg sub1 to neg sub2 to amp) which cuts the impedance in half to 2 ohms at the amplifier; or series ( negative sub1 to neg at amp, positive sub 1 to neg sub2, pos sub2 to pos amp) which will double the impedance at the amplifier to 8 ohms. If you have dual voice coil, treat the wiring of the second voice coil as that of another woofer. So having two dual voiced coil subs can be wired that same as 4 single voiced coil ones, etc. etc. I find this site to be very helpful in determining impedance when my brain is tired http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woofer_wizard.asp. So if you want to wire down to the lowest impedance to maximize the amount of watts your amp will put out, simply wire the subs in the correct way to reach that impedance at the amp. KEEP IN MIND Don't go lower than the amplifiers advertised stable impedance level! The amount of watts RMS your amp is advertised to put out at a certain impedance is the TOTAL it will put out, so if you have say 6 subs wired to that impedance, you will divide what is advertised as the RMS by 6. For example, if your speaker is DVC @ 2 ohms, and you are wiring it to one amp using parallel, the impedance will be 1 ohm at the amp. If the amp puts out 1000 watts at one ohm, the speaker will see a total of 1000 watts. Similarly, if you have 2 SVC speakers @ 2 ohms wired parallel to the amp, the impedance at the amp will be 1 ohm and the speakers will see 500 watts each (1000 total). As the impedance goes lower, the heat gets higher. Therefore, thicker wire must be used to carry the current and guarantee full performance. This page will show you recommended wire thicknesses. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...?showtopic=1005 When you wire correctly, you will have the ability to guarantee that your speakers are seeing the correct wattage, neither over nor underpowered, which will maximize performance as well as improve the life of your speaker...Happy Wiring!

Aphex Twin - Kick Ass Violin Solo ...great song in general. Wait to hear some of the bass, cuz it'll tear your car apart! Moby-Porcelain Photograph by Nickelback actually has good bass if you have a system.

"The Machine" by Pink Floyd nearly anything by Pink Floyd quite a few Mars Volta songs... Summertime by Sublime. I can really think of a lot, Rock FTMFW

what you are perfect drug we're in this together all by nine inch nails...they have either cool bass or really hard kicks(what you are) Most of Korn, or anything with kicks for that matter. I know a lot as rock is my favorite type of music, but can't think strait right now...

The box I have now has about 6", but it gets lower when I tilt my seats down allowing my box to go back about 10"

HAHA I demo my car now and people like jump when I put the bass up...I'm like damn, it's not even as loud as it was at first before realizing, oh yea, its like 6 dbs louder UPGRADE!!!!!!!

ok so as big as possible, sub up port back, tuned to res freq of the jeep...I will get on it...

basically I just want a box in the cargo area (have to keep the seats) the gets as loud as possible... It has to be removable because for daily bumping I want the box I have now... I don't know how to find res. frequency????

are there some days where you will like not bump at all and the next day bump...I notice if I am without my car for a few days and get back in it it seems hella louder. Also temperature greatly affects box tuning...

bump...anyone?

I want numbers! my max dimensions are 27.5" deep, 41" wide, and basically as tall as necessary ...I think around 3 1/2 feet is as high as it will go but probably higher would be fine, since I will only use this at comps I dont mind letting it get high... The subs and such are in my sig...thanks to anyone who helps