STEvil

Would be fun to put a Fusion FCA4000D or a Kicker Warhorse on it.. I have both

Do a 4th order, then you have both types of boxes lol

higher SPL score, or higher SQL score? IF SPL: then due to efficiency. Most vehicles peak in the 40-60hz range (without structural support) and have more cabin gain in that area due to acting as a secondary enclosure. IF SQL: then due to a basshead judge or vehicle/amplifier/box/woofer harmonics... or something. who knows.

4 would work fine sealed. Ported would be a bit small..

nope, works about the same for either. Just really depends on how many subs you want to squeeze into the ride.

what subs? I was always going to modify this box so there was a port in the center of the rear seat (cut a hole in it) pointing straight up but never got around to it and sold the truck.. still have the box though lol. It managed a pretty flat 140-142 on about 1600w RMS all sealed.

subs are always good until coil bits fall out like toast crumbs from the bottom of a toaster

Has a lot to do with the subs too though. For example I have 3x10's (pos old Coustics) in my Dodge 3/4 ton, Brother has 2x JL 10w04's in his F150 (~12 years old now), and friend has 3x JL10's (not sure exact model but brand new) in his '80 Chevy 1/2 ton. All trucks have near same power, enclosure, and cab size, but both the chevy and ford are louder than my dodge lol.

little short on length there I think, but would work fine

single 12 ported or go sealed if you want to have two or more 10's/12's.

wouldnt hurt, though your trunk might get wet inside if it leaks..

did you put oil back into it after opening it up?

separate chambers? sealed box or ported? If its sealed it might be loose screws or poorly sealed, or could be the box is flexing and hitting against something under/beside/on top/etc..

http://www.google.ca/search?source=ig&hl=en&rlz=1G1GGLQ_ENCA358&q=pvc+irrigation+pipe&oq=pvc+irrigation+pipe&aq=f&aqi=g6g-v4&aql=&gs_sm=e&gs_upl=1031l3517l0l3596l19l18l0l6l6l1l230l1765l2.8.2l12l0

take a tape measure when you go for the cement forms, they're not very uniform sometimes lol.. makes you kind of wonder about the footings under some buildings

im having a hard time seeing that as .6 lol

Go to local large hardware/construction store and get some cardboard tube (its used for cement piling forms), then just resin it. Or go to an irrigation company that supplies parts for center pivot irrigation. They usually stock or can point you to someone who does stock large diameter pipe and its a lot cheaper through them usually since they are bulk carriers.

try testing the tinsel leads closer to the cone if you can, might be a bad joint somewhere near the frame or wherever your testing from. also you could put a 9 volt battery (one of those small flashlight/remote control ones..) across the coil terminals. If the sub moves at all you're probably measuring something wrong.

because its a trunk car and unless you seal the trunk perfect thats what makes them loud.

could make the top a /\ (side to side) and mount them inverted on the /\, 4 per side.

How is their metering done? If its not in a closed building with a fixed lighting source and a tested meter its not legal. Also if your wall blocks the windows then tint percent wont matter and you could take it to court probably as the windows are non-functional aesthetic components at that point.

Longer coils mean more xmax, but the bottom plate of the motor needs to be far enough away for the coil not to hit it, and the spider needs to be far enough from the top plate, AND your surround/spider/tinsel leads all need to be able to handle the excursion.. Thicker coils can provide more motor force but you also need to take into account how tight the gap is...

trunk car: sub back, port back.

5 minute epoxy will work fine, just let it dry for a day or two. 24 hour is better, but no biggie.

If air pressure is blowing your box apart there then there's a structural or design issue. The holes are doing nothing but causing excess restriction, which means more built up pressure.