Marlo Stanfield

For your first system not bad man and welcome to the site.

I truly do suggest keeping the AQ and getting a recone for it... It can be ran anywhere from 1500-3500+ watts daily and keep up with just about anything out there. I've done a ton of testing with HD3s(between my own 15 and teammates 15s) and they are some of the better woofers made in the past few years IMO. They really do excell in daily applications for the large power range I listed and can also double as sum serious SPL woofers too.

Looks pretty good man.. Are you planning on covering/painting the enclosure and amp rack??

First and foremost good luck, because you're gonna need it as a base platform for a true sleeper. A good start would be to browse google + car domain for examples of other modified Prizms. Then search on youtube + streetfire for videos that may also show/tell about the mods done to the vehicles. What other vehicles is this engine shared with, if any??

I've always used med-large L clamps but you said u didn't want to drill into the box or body. You could use the ratchet straps as mentioned and they work pretty well, but they are very visable. I also knew someone who built a false floor and actually glued the underside of the enclosure to the false floor. It worked great and after it was all carpeted you couldn't tell that it was done. But obvious downside is that you can't move the enclosure without having to tear it out and start from scratch for the most part.

I wouldn't make that trade by any means... Unless I was made sum insanely good $$ offer to go with that truck I wouldn't do that trade. Your car has such a small amount of miles that it would be dumb to trade it away for something with high miles. My grandfather had a brand new 98 lesabre that he drove every day with no issues what so ever. He sold it w/ over 170,000 miles like 3 years ago to my cousin and my cousin still is driving the car. Never any big issues at all with anything major, only normal wear and tear fixes. I think the highest dollar parts fixed were brakes and tires.

I mean he's prolli causing like a solid 5.5 on the richter scale or it's just that the thin plastic bottle is vibrating lol.

Happy bday man, u better hit it hard this weekend to celebrate.

Line X has always been a favorite of mine.

FI woofer, FI recone... Yep sounds about right.

I have tested the SD 8000.1 and I was extremely impressed with its output on burps and bassrace/daily listening.. It does draw a good amount of amperage but that is to be expected from a single 8k+ amp. But for burps alone the single 8000.1 was (.4db) louder than 2 AB 400.1 @ .5ohm each and dead even w/ 2 500.1s @ .5ohm.. The amp draw @ 1ohm for the 8000.1 was also dead on with the 2 400.1s @ .5ohm each. At the time I was running a 300a alt w/ 4 Kinetik 2400s + 1 1400.. I would definitely have been comfortable running it @ 1ohm with that electrical backing but without at least having something of that nature I wouldn't suggest it. If u have any ?s bout the 8000.1 just drop me a PM.

DAT2500.1 + 2 15" Havoc would be a sick combo.

Well what exactly is your projected budget for this setup?? Can't really help u out without knowing that.

Nice start man.. Any particular reason u went w/ those amps?? One of my teammates had sum terrible experiences with them in the past is the only reason why I ask.

Crazy call by Belichick but if they make it, then it will just add to the "genius" Belichick... But they didn't make it and now people are calling him and idiot.

If u have the money just buy one new, it's been well worth it for me over the years.

She was hurting for sum money, don't knock the hustle of a determined crack head.

It's one of those things that is worth buying a more expensive version IMO. I bought a cheap one way back and about 6 months later sprung for a more expensive model. I bought it like 5 years ago and still use it to today, I'll check the make/model in the morning for ya.

When I would do big builds for customers I used to tell them to save sum money they can ask how much wood/what type will be used, amount/type of screws/nails used and what other materials. Then when they got the general info to bring the full sheets, boxes of screws, etc and request to pick up the remainder of each when they finished the build. If not my shop would charge 2-3x what each material cost to the customer. Certain installers though, like myself would take the cut if someone would go out of their way to bring the materials themselves. Check with shop and installer(s) that will be working on your vehicle though. If they will be using a large amount of material then this is a way to keep cost even further down, as long as they are cool with it.

I'd actually be rather worried that a proper wall build will only cost $400-500 from a legit shop... I'd definitely get the exact details of what the build will entail (ie. wood, baffles, sealing methods, bracing, resin or glass being used at all, etc). I'd also ask for as many prior pictures of wall builds that they've done. Because a quality wall build from a legitimate shops will usually be over a grand. This is because the labor alone of shops will well surpass that cost alone(to dissasemble, measure, cut, mock-up, build, fully seal, attach baffle and then finish if you want one). Then u gotta put in the cost of build materials and other hidden fees that most places will charge(be sure to look out for this). Haven't even put in the cost of actually installing everything yet either which will have to be done also. The shop I used to install for would start our builds at $800-1000 depending on installer(s) for basic install, sealed shell, bracing, resined interior and baffle unfinished. That was more along the lines of a small car w/ like 2-3 15s or something of that nature and from that point on it would go up in price. Then if there was any sort of clamshell, diamond, etc different sort of wall build or TL testing, wall finish, amp racks, glass work, etc price would go up pretty quickly from the base.

That is his old ass system in his Ford F250 i believe... Was like 20 15" T1s + a bunch of RF T1000s and that thing was a monster. But his setup in the van w/ the 30 10s moved a ton more air IMO and was right up there with Tommy McKinnie/Mick/Pipo/Bob Perillo with how violent it was to sit in/hear.

You are just asking to get your car broken into with decals regarding you having a system, a large enclosure that is pretty visable and not having the slightest bit of tinted windows... I'm scared to ask cuz I have a pretty good inkling of the answer - do u have an alarm??

I couldn't agree more with all of these and the high range 2 way system is very very helpful... My boy's car got broken into at the mall and it went off almost as he was walking out and we chased down the dude that was trying to get inside.

A used CM UL12(new ones are crazy expensive) + Stetsom V1k5d = very low weight but still high quality and has a big output potential... Then just make a birch enclosure and all together you'll should be well under 100lbs in trunk. For electrical I'd suggest the biggest underhood batt you can find, big 3 upgrade, HO alt if it's in your budget and/or even a small batcap in trunk to help things out.

Personally I'd just run 2 15s and have a little space left over to properly mount your amp(s) and batts in back. The 15s I'd run with 1k per sub would be AA Havocs. They will kill the lows, sound very good and still pull a pretty nice number on the meter.