sven6977

Cool, I will definitely be posting a build log for all of this (mid may, then june) , so we shall see how it works out. p.s. where can i get "polyfill" i can never seem to find it near me. Im gonna google a little harder and maybe it will show itself. If I do, of course I'll edit my lack of knowledge lol edit: nevermind. Reading > me. I'll either order it from amazon, or maybe check out wal-mart's fabric section. lol

thank you all for your replies!! thanks for the reply, i guess fiberglass would be ideal (can make the enclosure larger), but unfortunately ideal would cost me more than i can afford atm... (gonna buy some second skin for the trunk and whatnot along with power and speakers) that would be awesome, but i cant afford to do that project yet. already shellin' out 3/4 of my work-study job salary for this lol ^^great info bro. I think i'm just gonna be cheap and try the foam baffles, and cross the coax's over @100ish and i think my amp has a 18db slope on it so it should work out okay.

thanks for all the replies guys I do like rear fill.. a lot, and its nice for my passengers to hear it too. I think I may have been swayed to the RE comps and the coax's. Anyone else have experience with em? I would be getting the 6.5" coax and the 6.5" comps. Also, does anyone think that the foam baffles would stop the air pressure from bustin thru the woofers of the coax? (like these) Seriously, I really appreciate all of your opinions. And if there is no solution for nullifying the air pressure going through the speakers I guess $54 isnt toooo much to have die in like 2 years.

anybody? At least tell me how you like the hifonics speakers im gonna get? :\

please guys? I kinda have the credit card in hand Gettin antsy because college is almost over and then I can finally do all this shit

I am pretty set on getting these for my front doors, but the whole matching speakers is awesome As of right now I have 6.5" 2-way eclipse in the rear deck, but they feel like they are going. So my question is, has anyone done components in the rear deck of a sedan? Does it sound ok? Or should i look for some coax's? Also, I was wondering If I put those foam baffles on em, would it help protect them from the subwoofers in my trunk? They seem to be "playing through" the woofers on my midranges and possibly damaging them? Thanks in advance for any responses.

yeah, this is definitely a virus. do what the guy above me said. go to safe mode, move your comp date back a few days, then download malware bytes (its freeeee) and run that. it should get rid of it. after that is done, run mcaffe or whatever it is you said you had just to make sure it got everything. gl bro.

holy mother of god! lol Mine does it a lil bit, but daaaammmnnn thats a lot of movement. somethin tells me that somethin aint right.... imma hide behind this wall whenever i see your car bumpin, it may esssplooddeeeee lol

bahahaha lulz were had

x2 to be realistic, "staying friends" in my experience only happens like .0001% of the time. but gotta stay hopeful if the "worst" ever happens right? but about the 18's, you could def fit 15's in there, I put a ported box in my buddies grand prix (i think its an 04 or 06) with 2 12's in it and there was still like 3/4's of the trunk left. Granted, they were 2 kicker C124's, but hey ya gotta start somewhere as for the 18's, not so sure, it would get a lil squishy in thar.

thanks guys, I really appreciate the responses. I'll just have to save up for it. You're right. This is one of those areas you really shouldnt be cheap on. /thread

x2

Its conteo or at least its the same in my iPod too lol good job on the hair trick

mileage on both car and truck? and I really doubt that the car is in that great of shape, cause I know if I had a lil sporty import with turbo and perform mods I'd beat the shit outta it on the highway all day.

anyone?

look on window's website about problems with upgrading win XP. I remeber hearing that you have to upgrade some things first and then it "magically" works lol. I saw this in my gf's win 7 upgrade disk instructions. And I kinda went... "wtf?..."....

I've been perusing the audio savings website, and their deals seem great to me. But with their car security, I know absolutely nothing about it and am thinking of maybe installing somethin in my car. I was thinking maybe this. I know Viper is probably the way to go, but I just am looking for some honest opinions. I wanna go for a two way system, and am gonna be buying some piezo buzzers to put inside the car and maybe some outside along with what comes with the system. Any opinions/help is appreciated. note: Imma cheap bastard

bahahahahahahaha that definitely helped me wake up a bit.

no problem, If you want more info on the ported versus sealed, you should check out the Subwoofers/Enclosures section of the forum. linky

Stock alt will probably be fine, maybe do the big three. for the wiring, you wanna run it parallel, not series (which is what you described) parallel is hooking the positive (+) from amp to first sub, then the + from the first sub to the +of second sub, then the negative (-) from amp to - of sub one, then the - of sub one to - of sub 2. This way, you will end up with a total load of 2ohms. That way your amp is putting out 900W which is just over the total Watts needed for your subs (100W over). To find the gain you need on the amp, first don't use any bass boost, it distorts the signal and often causes clipping IMO. Second, hookup the main power and ground lines to your amp and the remote wire so it turns on. Then use a multimeter and set it to AC and attach the leads from the multimeter to the speaker outs on your amp. On your head-unit you should play a test tone track that loops a tone anywhere from 40-60Hz. (theres a lot of debate about whats the best frequency to use). To find the correct voltage you need your multimeter to show, you use ohm's law to calculate the numbers. (I=V/R) however, you change the equation so that you get I*V=V^2/R or W=V^2/R, then alter it so you get sqrt(800W*2Ohms)=Voltage needed=40V. So what you do is adjust the "gain" or "level" knob (i dunno what it will be labeled on your particular unit) until your multimeter reads that number. OR You could just set it by ear. Adjust your gain until your hear some clipping then back it off until you don't hear clipping anymore lol As Per the fuses, The way I understand it is that you want the fuses in between each electrical component to be just a little greater than the fuses used in the device. So say you have one amp that uses a 100A fuse and the second one uses a 60A, you would wanna use maybe 200A in between the two amps and the battery. However I'm not positive about that. (Someone Correct me if I'm wrong). Next time though, try not to write a book.

Anyone have any experience with these speakers? Or anyone hear em before? I'm lookin to replace my temp speakers I bought to replace my factory door speakers, and on audio savings i came across these and they seem too good to be true. $250 speakers for only $45... whats wrong with them i say? Also, i noticed they have external crossovers but theyre coaxial speakers.... I'm a little confused. I just wanted some opinions before i make any decisions, because I was also just gonna get 5.25" eclipses to match brands with my 6.5" eclipses in my rear deck, but if cadence is actually good, ill go with those i think.... Halp?

Gotcha bout the second bat. And now we know that the amp aint bad. So.... yeah, make sure your grounds are all touching bare metal and not paint. Also, yeah, ground to frame and if you have no 4ga the two runs of 8 will work in a pinch. the fuses sound fine. Give it a shot bro, worse thing that will happen is it wont work and you'll still have voltage dipping. Also, IMO, you can do the big three with 4ga or 2ga. not everyone needs 1/0 ga for that. (not everyone is running h/o alternators and 10kW systems). whats the voltage like before you turn your system on btw? Is it normal, low, fluctuating? anything unusual?

I agree with the clipping. (How old is your alt though? maybe goin bad, or cant support the dual bats anymore) Personally I run a "1000W" Kenwood amp (really only like 170Wx2ch @4ohm [rms])and I'm at 14.4V all day. So I dont think its not having the big 3, and the 4ga and 8ga wiring (I have all 4ga). IMO the big three isnt really necessary in this situation, neither is the 2nd bat. Also, My buddy had a similiar problem with the "West Coast Customs" series of I think Orion amps. It was giving almost no power to subs, but was draining his power supply to about 11.2V at the worst. So probably clipping, bad ground, or faulty amp. If you have another amp layin around, i'd hook it up just to see what kind of voltage dips you get with that just to rule out the faulty amp.

gotcha thx for answerin.