monkeyleg

lol slow day on smd. So you are going to hear the difference between two L7 12`s and a 15` L7? I wouldn`t mind hearing the result. Boxes to specs and ported around 35Hzish?

I bough a 15 Fi Q in 2008 but haven`t used it yet. Now I found out that the new model is very much improved and I am finally ready to use a 15 so I was wondering if anyone has any experience with the new model. In what ways is it improved and will the difference be audible. I got the Bp for free, back when that was the only option available. How is the power handling now if you add all the available options and is this sub still the `sq` line of Fi

WTF paying for the app should come with instructions. I usually put the app name in youtube and someone usually has a video of how to use it.

Front driver's door looks sick

Damn people always taking vacations

Dude what the F? Need updates. Pictures....

I've used the kicker shallows under the back bench of f150 4-door, go on the website. Cheap too, like $160 for box and sub.

Yea Home Depot cuts it. I asked them to do it once. Never again. It is 90 degrees for sure but it's no good if they're not the right measurements. Buy a straight edge clamp, and guide your skill saw along side it. My cuts are better than table saw cuts. Pretty sure Meade uses a hand saw too.

Damn I just noticed there's no rear view mirror in the Tahoe. Now is it all videos are a go to link or concentrate on car/stereo/bass?

Yea bite your lip, act all nice, say you're sorry, hug it out, start all over tomorrow.

Coming on SMD to kill some time and see "BigD23"s avatar, showing that ass and getting me all rowdy so I have to go find some porn? Everytime? FUCK THAT!

Wow that doesn't surprise me at all. Shes a girl. That's what they do. She must be young still. Has she done this before? If she is always like this then weigh the pro's and con's of being with her.

I really appreciate your efforts man, it cleared up alot and I did find it very interesting, and very surprised by platinum not being superior to copper and silver. I see alot of companies, ex. Rockford, promoting platinum plated RCA's, fuse holders, and connectors. But I also realise that the effect isn't drastic enough so I won't lean towards products like that in the future. Sometimes I SMD it instead of googling

Wow, excellent. Everything I needed to know and I knew this was the place to go. Huge relief off my mind, efficiency is my number one priority so it's good to know I don't have to worry about it. Thanks guys

I am apprehensive about using just copper because of the oxidation. I want a maintenance free product. I started this topic to see how the flow of electricity actually varies when presented with different metals. I know the most efficient conductors are gold, silver, copper. But these are only used for a coating. Does electricity just flow through the coating of the lug? i.e the lug can be made of iron or any cheap metal and be coated with silver and it's good to go?

Yes the connectors for wire. Darvex has stinger lugs that are 100% brass and coated with 24k gold. So does it make a difference in the material of the lug if in the end it is coated with gold/copper/silver? Could I have steel lugs coated with silver and no difference?

I've always wondered if it makes a difference in what material the lug connectors for wire are made out of? Anybody do any tests or have any knowledge of what is best/ pretty good/ avoid? I bough a bunch of silver satin matte plated and I'm wondering if I should visit darvex for some proper 100% brass 24K gold plated?

OK Just making sure I'm not the only one that's thought about doing this. Guess I'll try them sealed and see if I like it. And when I do cut the holes how is the size of the hole determined? I'm sure the smaller the hole the more drastic the sound will appear. For A-pillars using just the volume of the trim piece is good enough? I don't need to play less than 100HZ on the mids.

Yea I've heard about those but all the reviews I read mention cutting a hole in them for better bass or even fiberglassing them.

My last setup just had a MDF sheet over the door cover to screw in the speaker and the back of the speaker used the door frame, just like all stock speakers use, so infinite baffle. When I turned it up the mid and high frequencies would sound awesome but the bass would crackle, I'm guessing from over excursion or no damping effect. Even if they don't sound as loud in these sealed pods maybe they will deliver the bass without cracking? I'm not too worried about loudness since there will be so many of these speakers. Here's another pic http://s916.photobucket.com/albums/ad5/cz3chmonkey/?action=view&current=august104.jpg There is a fleece layer and then a thick resin layer inside the enclosure. So this thing is sealed up good. I will screw the panel into the metal door frame, I don't want the speaker energy to be wasted on vibrating the door panel.

Thanks guys, loving the input. I'm using Polk MM 6501's. 2 in each door. They will share the enclosure, I just made it big enough to house them. I don't want to port it. I was just wondering what the sound difference will be instead of the infinite baffle (Using all the airspace in the door) My door frames leak and obviously they aren't air tight. If they sound like crap then I will just cut out the back of the pods. Just wondering if anybody has some input first hand?

OMG thank you, it's been bothering me for a long time, just needed some reassurance.

LOL no turning back now, it's all down hill from here, constant upgrades from now on

Alright I know there's a bunch of people on here that can explain why or why not I should keep this speaker enclosure sealed. It's really bothering me that I don't know the difference. I don't necessarily need to play below 100Hz The door, shared enclosure - http://s916.photobuc...acations041.jpg