Mobile Chassis Dyno

Reminds me of my ex.

Try to find someone local to you with HP Tuners or EFI live so they can do a scan. I have a mail order tune for the 6.0 trucks that pick up mileage 2-3 miles per gallon. Too bad you are so far away or I would say lets give it a shot on your truck.

I was considering the RF. Where can I find the Sundowns on sale?

LOL. Trust me if I had that kind of disposable income I would I one of those for everything I drive. As far as a budget I am not sure. Depends on my mood when it is time to spend the funds. Is a $1000.00 budget resonable? Link to suggested amplifier please.

I would prefer to do one amplifier. If 2 is better option then so be it. Looking for a middle to upper class amplifier. Link to Subs http://reaudio.com/specs.html#sp_sex Thank you in advance!!!

Expand on this please.

If I do the math correctly there is a ever so slight advantage in cone area with 2 10's over 2 8's. I have a number of amps laying around to use so I know I can come with the correct power and load requirements regardless of the combination I choose. I assume I want the 2 10's over the 3 8's? FWIW - I like my bass lower then I do louder. Please Advise

I can see it causing stress if both of your batteries were discharged. I am sure it would have to work its ass off to recharge and to maintain the vehicles need for power. I added a second battery to my probe and noticed a difference right away in how loud it was. Waiting for the experts to chime in.

What kind of air space for each sub?

Before I left the shop today I decided to play a little basstronic out in the parking lot. There was a good 4 inches or more of wet snow all over my car. I normally have a decent amount of flex on the rear hatch and quarters . I swear the really low tones sounded a lot louder and lower with wet heavy snow all over my car. Would have been nice to have a TL to check it before and after the snow. LOL

I think you are measuring both the impedance of the subs and amp at 28 ohms. Waiting for the experts to chime in.

What they are not telling you is the 1 that survives recieved CPR from a hot piece of ass and not some dude that looks like Bubba.

Me want one.

You will be very happy with the truck. I love mine. Only thing I do not care for is the front end seems to bounce a lot. My guess is the newer trucks have resolved this problem.

Funny thing is I have a Dodge Diesel Dually to pull the dyno. :01nocomment8so:

Sounds like the amp needs to go in the trash. 58 volts is bad news. I can only imagine the current draw depending on the impedence of the sub.

Looks like we need a thread that shows max amp draw for a given gauge wire and amp draw vs the number of batteries needed.

A return style system is going to be new lines and rails with a fuel pressure regulator under the hood. Lethal Performance makes a nice kit. I imagine Aeromotive has an upgrade by now for the S197 platform. Re: Turbos. I have two turbo cars for a reason. Turbos are my power adder of choice regardless of the engine platform. Put a good shoot block in the car make as much power as you want with 3V heads.

Honestly I would leave the roush on the car. 450 rwhp is about the limit on stock rods. I have a couple guys making 500 rwhp. However it will be only a matter of time before they window the block. The rods in these cars tend to fail right at the crankshaft. A set of manley rods from the 03/04 cobras do the trick. If you are making 560 to the tires now I would say you have been lucky. Keep the rpms down or you will be be making windows in your block as well.

Mid 10's on motor. To be honest I do not know what it runs on spray.

I have probably tuned over 100 supercharged 3800's. I know I have a video of a turbo one making 670 to the tires. If I can find it I will post it on you tube and post the link for you.

Time for a return style fuel system at the 600 rwhp mark. Returnless was designed to do about 370 rwhp according to some engineers at ford. Obviously they do more based on the number of 03/04 cobras running Kennebells.