nCOMP1337

wonder how two of these in a tline would sound

class d monos are supposed to be more efficient and they do not normally get as want as a multi channel amp may, also most mono amps also have ability for 2 + + and - - terminals and they are not always bridged im not expert and im not completely sure on all this, but i did some reading last year when i was buying my first mono amp and this is what i vaguely remember class d mono amps in my opinion are best for using 1-2 subs, if you have more subs then get another mono amp, i know they have more powerful amps to run more powerful subs and in more quantity, but i just like monos better either way you still want to have good grounds and clean electrical and as long as you getting clean power and the amp is installed in a good place, then either should be fine monos are also more expensive, so if money is an issue may have to go 2 channel route, just be sure the rms ratings match and dont both with the base watts it says it can handle unless it says continuous power handling or rms and be sure that number matches as close to the rms handling of the subs as possible without going over unless you apy attention to gain and such and dont overpower yhour subs or know very well what your doing and can properly install everything to handle more power i have a friend that wouldnt buy my amp solely because i would only tell him the rms rating capable based on amps birth sheet, rather than whatever random watts he thought it said on the box, which since it was a good brand amp it didnt have retarded wattage numbers on the box hope this helps, im an audionoob so dont take my word for it, do the research and get feedback from people on here and do what suits you best

i was thinking the same, there were names just slipping out the bottom of that box

nice, congrats to winner

yea i think the original looks best

went for he all blue here

yea, side shot be easier, but larger would be better if possible, if you like i can try them all blue, see how it looks

i normally dont photoshop much as im normally busy, but i really liked your build log so i thought id give it a go, rear wheel kind of looks funny as I tried to get the chrome reflection on the inner wheel

yea ive only come into contact with one other person so far that knows more about car audio than just kicker brand everyone else i thought knew stuff before i started researching and learning myself all really know nothing and either got lucky with a setup, got a dealer to install, or keeps blowing their stuff up

it looks like igt has one of those hard plastic surrounds, maybe with that o ver the sub measured from nd to end is 16 inches, maybe the guy just doesnt know how to measure a woofer thats not too far from me, im in kokomo, indiana, i have seen quite a few ads like that on my local craigslist as well as the one for indianapolis, most people around here do not know what they are doing when it comes to car audio

yea, i would go with no bass boost, a smart man once told me, if you cant get the sound out of the subs that you want without adding bass boost or other boost via head unit, then you should probably upgrade your subs not to say you cant have the boosts and the subs will be fine, i guess its users choice i have everything on my head unit set to 0, bass is -2 and bass boost on amp is 0

yea, i used to have the amp it is 1 ohm stable, and i believe it also has the inputs for 2 speakers but i am sure they are not bridged they should function as two different channels even though it is a mono amp, i know my mono rockford fosgate prime 500 amp has 2 channels that are bridged, which i hate, because whatever i input ito it it dropes an ohm load which i didnt want, but it still works just as well i really liked that amp, never gave me an issue, its probably the only series of amp id recommend from kenwood

lol, luckily my electrical is not bad, i did have turn signals though, but it was one of the filaments for the brake lights, both side were gone, not sure when or how it happened but im glad it is fixed

alright found the issue, the guy about the dual filament was right i checked them but i found out that even though it looked like it was connected, one of the filaments was all there but the connection was just barely not touching, lol dunno if the subs rattle it off, or if it just broke partially due to other factors, i doubt the subs would be at fault i do not have much of a system in the way of power, just running about 200rms to two 15 CVRs

thanks ill check the bulbs out today and ill google for some info on my car too btw i got an 99 olds alero

well i believe in my last post, i stated that the lights work every way they are supposed to except for when you press the brake pedal, i took bulbs out and looked at them, nothing seems to be busted or fried, but i think i may have a replacement in my glove box, just to be sure i will replace it with new bulbs, but since those lights turn on at night, i would think thats not the problem is there a special wire or fuse somewhere where it tells the lights to turn on when pedal is pressed, maybe i tripped something that goes from pedal to brake lights, but just by exchanging cd players i doubt it must be something else and just happen to not notice it until i was told when i had replaced my cd player

yea lights work in every way possible except when i pores brake pedal to let people know im braking, lol the third middle light works when braking but thats it im thinking its just a coincidence that it was noticed when i changed my h/u , i check ed every fuse in the car and i uninstalled the h/u and tried to press brakes and nothing happened so it wasnt the h/u and i didnt cut any wires except for what was attached to my old wiring harness from my other h/u (i had wires clamped together instead of taped) but still i need to figure out what the deal is with brakes, cant drive too long like that, im not sure if its legal if only the third one is working

ill check it out again, i am sure i uninstalled the h/u and checked and they still didnt work, it could just be a weird coincidence, but ill look mnore today, hope i cna find out, cause my other car wont be ready to drive for 3 weeks so i need to make sure i wont get pulled over, lol

I replaced my pioneer h/u with a newer kenwood (only cause it was free, like pioneer better myself) system sounds a lot better, but now my brake lights dont work i thought maybe a wire was exposed or hooked up wrong, so i checked everything again and all wires are hooked up to appropriate ones, ground is good, nothing is exposed, and have no blown fuses, my little third light that is on the trunk is the only one that works, bulbs are good in the lights as well, so im lost anyone experience this before or have some insight please and thank you

lol, yea i missed a spot, so easy to see where it is, but oh well yea i could do reflection but i really dont have a lot of time to photoshop but this gives the impression of what they would look like if they were installed, so close enough to get the idea i think i used t photoshop all day long, but full time work and school now leaves little for fun

it says directly on the amp, that the speaker terminals are wired internally in parallel it doesnt have more than 1 channel, but it has 2 inputs which are wired together internally to work as one that is why i thought that it would drop an ohm load when two speakers are wired to it i can get a picture of the part on the amp directly under the speaker terminals where it states what i just said if you do not believe me i know its mono block, but the 2 pos and 2 neg inputs that it has are wired together internally i only mentioned that because i had a mono block previously that was setup up the same way, only it did not have the speaker terminals wired in parallel internally

just listened to the entire cd today, very nice, never heard psyph before except for steves videos, i like it a lot

id say it would take way more than 825 rms to be too loud to listen to, even in a good box, but then again some people think some stuff is luder than others, maybe im just going deaf, dunno i know im running 2 15s at 250 rms and i have had some people say its too loud and i only listen to it at 13, cause my components cant handle much louder as they are stock, so its really personal preference there are daily drivers on here that are well over 10k rms, granted not everyone will be happy to hear it and the people with powerful systems like that may not even listen to it as loud as it can be but as the person above said, its best to build it and see, you cant really simulate car audio much because tons of factors go into how they outcome will be you could have heard the same system, built exactly the same in two exact same cars, same power and everything and i bet they would both sound different, may not be able to be noticeable to most, but would still be different id think also, if the amp is brand new form when you bought it, why dont you list it for what you paid or best offer ior check ebay or craigslist and see what the amp or one like it is selling for

due to some unfortunate problems i can only access the site through a proxy, there is a mod trying to find out why i cant access the site normally, but so far no clue due to how i have to access the site, if i open a link it doesnt work for some reason could anyone please message me with the link to the download so i can check it out thank you EIDT: thanks to BJD3 for getting me the link

here is a photoshop with the rims