JaM Customs aka mprete

sorry kickass just having a bad day. thanks for clearing that up with the dmm and i guess i didnt mean the "gain" cuz some amps are different and have different terms and stuff but the bass boost... or whatever its called. if they dont like to be over powered then turn the boost down and make sure your lo and hi pass filters are adjusted appropriatly to what your sub likes. again kickass my bad i deleted that whole thing like 10 seconds after i posted it cuz i felt like an ass hole. thanks for the input, and being the bigger man.. respect.

how much are you looking to lower it...?

to answer you in my opinion i would stick with 12s and go with the DC lvl 2s those look like sweet subs. and if you have rear deck speakers, you could move them into rear doors or something and put a grill over the holes as a "passage way for bass" from the trunk into the car.. ive seen it done and it looked nice.

well its 750 at one ohm to one sub. when you have 2 subs its really 375 to each. so... turn the gain all the way up, and back it off like a 16th of a turn to take out the extra 75 watts. or i have a hifonics HFI1000 thats rated 500rms so its only 250 to each sub in theory... perfect for a 300 watt sub. so your either going to be 75 watts over of 50 watts under... all in theory of course bc you dont no theer "actual" wattage.

i dont really understand where your going with that, i no what the factory light is but if you can find and hid kit at 4300k ill look into those. even though i like the little whiter color better. but they dont have that. my truck is also very tall so my lights are in peoples windows anyway... but... im not one of the idiots who cant figure out how to adjust your headlights down and thats why my lights are not in anyones eyes. thank you for the info though. i look forward to more input on this.

anyone have any input at all?

ive been researching HID kits for my truck and im just a little confused. there are so many options and stuff im not sure what im looking at. this is the kit im looking at bc you guys seem to have good luck with them http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/Apexcone-Raptor-HID-Kit its a DDM tuning kit. i have 9004-hb1 headlights. my bulbs are dual filament bulbs with high and log in the same bulb. now there is 2 9004 kits listed. a 9004-hb1 and a 9004-hb1 (high and low) what is the difference bc i thought all the 9004 bulbs were the same. and then there are the options.... do i need the hid harness or the error code eliminator? i dont even no what those are for... any input would be awesome.. also im looking for the brightest, whitest light i can get because i have a herd time seeing at night. i want to see better not look better. is the 6000 or the 5000 better for that? and this kit only comes in 35 watts so dont even worry about the 55. thank you very much

i am in training, i passed the class last fall and now just have to pass the national exam. i took it once and didnt pass. for me its very stressful and very tuff but will all be worth it once i pass. its an awesome profession and cant wait to get into it. if anyone ever wants to study for the national or needs help with the class or anything let me no. im always down to help and i severely need help too lol. im getting ready to do some ride along time on an ambulance. im all signed up i just need to find time to go. this stupid speech class is taking up a lot of my time but i will do it very soon.

the one you posted would work but would only give you basic generic info. unless you buy the gm or ford or whatever specific program. you wont get much for 150 considering a real scan tool that a shop would use cost about 10k plus vehicle specific "chips" which each one cost about 5k and has to be updated every year. you can get a generic one like you were looking at but really wont show all that much. i will look around but we have one at school that is real nice. but they paid i believe 600 for each unit and you have to again buy manufacture specific types. we have gm and ford. goes to a laptop. ill find out what it is.

ive got polk 5 1/4s in my truck and ive installed them in 2 other cars and we have all been very happy. they sound great. about 80 bucks for 2. but i got a hook up at a local electronics store so we get them for about 40 a pair lol.

take some empty pop cans and fill then with foam, then glue them all together to look like a boat... or make a paper airplane or a paper hat, or a paper envelope (from a regular sheet of paper.) or google some oragomy. that shit is cool.

yea, what cmcmtower said. and did you happen to move the pintle at all? you might have to set it again and then let the computer figure out the rest. but if cleaning it defiantly made a difference then that is most likely your problem. also are you sure you dont have a vacuum leak? spray some carb cleaner around the intake manifold gasket, the throttle body, and any other vacuum hoses just to be sure. and go to the local autozone if you have one and have them scan it for codes cuz if that is bad then there will be a code but it might not trip your check engine light. or your check engine light is on and the bulb is burnt out....

ive been looking into new subs for my truck and i really like the DC lvl 2 10s. they are like 125 each online. which isnt bad cuz my polks cost 170 each. but i have a limited mount bepth so i cant go any larger then the lvl 2. and they would be perfect for your amp. also the sundown 10s look amazing. they just have to deep of a mount depth for my boxes

it only takes a few second for the computer to re learn fuel trim and stuff. but also if you worry about fuel mileage and drive "nice" (like a grandma) just get on the highway and have a little fun. floor it a little and get off and back on for a couple miles. could clean it out. but its good to get the rpms up and clean all the junk out of it a little. but yea cleaning the iac would work also. if you tell a difference then you should probably get a new one.

yea, tons of stuff you can do tactical wise with red dots, scopes, muzzle breaks, suppressors, lights, lasers, bipods, stocks, longer or shorter barrels. but there are also stuff like bolts, triggers, whole receivers. and there is one other thing, i dont remember what its called but you can adjust the pressure that ejects your shells. they get thrown pretty far so if you do a lot of target shooting next to people at a range or something it would be a good idea so you dont keep hitting the guy next to you with your spent shells. lol

you need a trunk monkey for sure... but i also agree with the paintball idea. or give the paintball gun to the trunk monkey.. yes.. so many options with that trunk monkey.

mine was actually a pro comp lift and it was great. never had any problems at all. it rode better after the lift.. but at the time rough country did not have a 2.5 in kit for my jeep so i had to go with pro comp. but rough country gives you everything you need also. some one asked before what kind of steering and drivetrain issues you can have. the steering... when you lift a truck all the steering component become to short and are put on a greater angle which puts more strain on all of it and especially your wheel hub bearings. it also puts your axles further away from the transfer case which pulls the drive shafts longer then they are designed to properly work at, making you have to get 2 custom made drive shafts. also when your rear axle and transfer case are on such different angels the rear axle WILL vibrate, making you have to get it shimmed. and the drive shaft is on such an angle, because of the such short wheel base, it will wear out very quickly unless you get a slip yoke eliminator kit (which my jeep had on it) so that works properly. and you have to keep into consideration all your brake lines and such so they do not get pulled tight or stretched. and if the kit you buy comes with a transfer case drop, if you get a 2.5 or 3 inch lift i do not suggest using it, it put the engine at a different angle and the fan will hit the shroud or the upper radiator hose. and at that height you really dont need it. now by no means will this happen to every truck or in every situation but if you want your lift done right and to last you a very long time you must consider them, that is all i was trying to tell the OP. im not arguing with anyone about anything. just trying to help out. if you think im wrong then fine and i will stop posting here. hope any of this info helps you out.

go to 4wheelparts.com anything they have is quality. but rough country has real nice stuff too. here is a yj that i used to have it has a 2.5 in suspension lift, 1 inch body lift, and a 1 in shackle lift. it sits on 33 in mud terrains. if you dont know much about lifting them just do your research, anything 4 inches and over can start to create a lot of problems with the drivetrain and steering. i would not suggest anything over 4 inches, thats why i did a 2.5 suspension and a 1 inch body. i know a lot about jeeps so if you have any other questions i might be able to help you out

for the input on the subs thanks a lot, it seems that DC would be the better bet. i really like the polks but i want more lows. the polks kinda start to sound very terrible in real low and loud songs, so i have to turn the bass down for it to sound good. and they are not even getting the full rms rating from my amp. my amp it turned down and its giving each sub 250 watts rms (all the way up) and they dont seem like they can handle that very well. they sound really good, but not on the real low side...

ok cool. and in reply to getting rid of the cap, i have a red top under the hood now but i was experiencing very slight dimming of the lights (only interior lights i could notice not headlights) so i bought just a 20 dollar one and it did help. eventually i am getting a second battery because of my system, and the plow, and all my lights i have. they make a battery tray for the other side of my truck (because an option for this truck is a desiel) so eventually i will buy that and get a second red top.

ok cool, i think im going to go with them eventually. i need to sell my polks first and then ill get them. do these have any sort of grill that i can buy to go over them? i couldnt find anything but i dont know. they are on the floor under my back seat, i wouldnt want someone to put there foot through one of them

yea thats what i would do if i went with the DC. but will the DC be a big difference from the polk?

no other then the mount depth is very small and im not sure if it will fit. its about 1/2 to almost an inch deeper then the polk and about 1/2 in beeper then the mound depth of the box, but i can just make a spacer to make that up. the problem is... with the dc be a big difference. they take the same amount of power pretty much and the DC is actually cheaper in price.

no one else has any input on this?

yea, 2 separate boxes. the dc calls foe .5 cu and the pold wants .6 cu