soundsystemaniac

Going to keep an eye on this thread. I'm interested in more q & a

right, but ive got to basically tear the car apart do sound deadener on everything-especially the rear deck, so it wont be so bad. i appreciate the thought and advice though

well, ive had tons of great luck buying used equipment. havent been ripped off yet. and what kind of an alternator and how much would pay for it if you were running 4000 watts rms? And im also leaving him some room to upgrade if he wants to in the future! Good call on the future-proofing. So if the used equipment goes tits up you're gonna spring for replacements? Just playing devil's advocate here. I know that if I was paying someone to install a system in my car, I wouldn't want used parts. Also, if I paid someone to install a system in my car and an amp went bad, then I'd expect them to replace it. Are you prepared to do that? well, we have discussed the options on buying used equipment already, and its assumed that with the money that he is saving, there is the risk of something failing. turns out that after the last couple days of buying all kinds of stuff, i actually was able to get basically everything i want for that budget. brand new fi sp4 fully loaded 15 2 brand new shrukien bt-60 batteries used pioneer 3200dvd brand new singer 240 amp alternator with overdrive pulley brand new re audio mids and highs for front door and rear deck used 4 channel amplifier 50 ft of 1/0 gauge from knukonceptz 40 ft of 8 gauge from knukoncepts 14 ft of 9 conductor wire 2 sheets of mdf plexiglass window(s) blue leds all connections and terminals and fuseblocks are new solder carpet wood glue screws bulk pack 36 sq ft of stinger sound deadening used crunch gp3000 pro amp so everything is on the way here now. build log coming soon! Again I would reconsider the rear deck option, not only is it a bitch to get to...it's a bitch to get to plus again the rear doors have the housing for 6.5" speakers all you need to buy is a mounting ring and you're set the hole and the door grill is already there. idk what you mean bro, there are already speakers in the rear deck. and instead of actual speaker hole and grille, its just a little cubbie in the rear doors.

bump!

well, ive had tons of great luck buying used equipment. havent been ripped off yet. and what kind of an alternator and how much would pay for it if you were running 4000 watts rms? And im also leaving him some room to upgrade if he wants to in the future! Good call on the future-proofing. So if the used equipment goes tits up you're gonna spring for replacements? Just playing devil's advocate here. I know that if I was paying someone to install a system in my car, I wouldn't want used parts. Also, if I paid someone to install a system in my car and an amp went bad, then I'd expect them to replace it. Are you prepared to do that? well, we have discussed the options on buying used equipment already, and its assumed that with the money that he is saving, there is the risk of something failing. turns out that after the last couple days of buying all kinds of stuff, i actually was able to get basically everything i want for that budget. brand new fi sp4 fully loaded 15 2 brand new shrukien bt-60 batteries used pioneer 3200dvd brand new singer 240 amp alternator with overdrive pulley brand new re audio mids and highs for front door and rear deck used 4 channel amplifier 50 ft of 1/0 gauge from knukonceptz 40 ft of 8 gauge from knukoncepts 14 ft of 9 conductor wire 2 sheets of mdf plexiglass window(s) blue leds all connections and terminals and fuseblocks are new solder carpet wood glue screws bulk pack 36 sq ft of stinger sound deadening used crunch gp3000 pro amp so everything is on the way here now. build log coming soon!

hello everyone, ive got a build that im doing in a 2005 nissan altima 3.5 and i just bought a brand new fi sp4 15" d1 sub and a crunch gp3000 pro amp. I am looking at doing a bandpass box in the trunk ported through a self made ski hole in the center armrest in the back seat. But i dont even know where to start with ratios, or airspace in the ported vs sealed side, or how many sq inches or port or port length that would work well. my demensions that im planning on working with is 18 high, 34 wide, and 28 deep. That would just be a simple square box that would slide in and out of the trunk. i can squeeze about 2 more cubes IF NECESSARY, but everything will be a lot more complicated when it comes to designing. so without squeezing more room, it gives me 9.92 cubes GROSS with no disp. do you guys think i can work with that or need more room? suggestions? Also, tuning freq suggestions would be nice too. the goal is to be able to play mostly mainstream rap, and some lower stuff. (this is not intended to be a system that will only play chopped and screwed music)

well im not sure what size battery will fit, but i want to leave the factory battery and put the rest in the trunk. how many ah worth of batteries do you suggest for 3500 watts rms combined with a 240 amp singer alternator?

shipping was not free, but the smddd1 code still took 10 bucks off

you guys think a 240 amp singer alt and the factory battery, and a d2400 battery would be sufficient?

just placed my order! yayyy

$2600 is just for equipment. im being paid seperatly

well, ive had tons of great luck buying used equipment. havent been ripped off yet. and what kind of an alternator and how much would pay for it if you were running 4000 watts rms? And im also leaving him some room to upgrade if he wants to in the future!

so, ive got a buddy of mine that has a 2005 nissan altima sedan 3.5 se that im going to be doing a build for and his budget is $2600 for equipment plus my labor. I've got the money in my bank account ready to buy stuff with. This is going to be a build from basically a stock system to a full system with everything upgraded- double din head unit, 4 ch amp, front door and rear deck speakers, high output alternator, batteries, subs, bass amp, wiring, box and box materials, sound deadening, volt meter, and a plexiglass window. The only things that we have already is a steering wheel control interface, and a dash kit with a wiring harness and antenna adapter. Here is what his expectations from the system are: 1. The system must be balanced at high volume with mids, bass and highs. (having some extra bass on tap will of course be necessary also) 2. The bass must be kept in the trunk-no wall- and the back seats will be up. Now, i am planning to cut a hole in the back seats where the center armrest is for a ski pass/port. 3. Everything must be reliable. I a lot of it know it depends on installation..but ive got that covered. 4. Voltage drop must be no lower than high 12s/prefrably low 13s at idle so im going to have to get the electrical to back that up. Here is what we are thinking- and the budget that ive got set for most things. If there is something you would recommend me changing that you think would be better, please let me know. head unit: $250 for a new baseline pioneer touchscreen radio-or a decent used one. im looking at http://www.ebay.com/...4d94dd2&vxp=mtr 4 channel amplifier: $200 for a used amp-looking to find the older model crescendo c10004 hopefully. Door and rear speakers: $160 for 2 sets of new Audioque pro audio mids and tweeters. Sub amp- $350 for a used crunch gp 3000 amp. Wiring: 125 for new Knukoncepts 1/0 gauge power and ground wire including wiring for the big 3. I was planning on just getting the CCA stuff since i have had good experience with that in the past. I was considering just one run of positive. What do you guys think will be necessary for those amps above? Box and materials- im budgeting 70$ for 2 sheets of mdf, 12 bucks for screws, 5$ for wood glue and about $100 for a nice 3/4" plexiglass window that is cut to size High output alternator: $420 for a mike singer 240 amp high output alternator. Battery: $310 for a new XS Power D2400 battery. (any other suggestions would be helpful) Im scared to buy used batteries, but if you think it would be beneficial, let me know what you think i should buy and why! Sound deadening: $100 for hopefully some second skin deadener (or i found a shop pack of stinger roadkill with 36 sq ft for 105 from sonicelectronics.com) Voltmeter: $20 for a stinger voltmeter Subs- that leaves me a budget of 475 for subs. I am going to do a single beastly 15 in a bandpass box ported through a ski hole Okay, let me know what you all would change or do differetly, or if you think im on the right path. Keep in mind...$2600 is the limit! or if you know of some good deals on something that would help me out- let me know! Thanks for reading, Brandon

so are the discounts and upgraded shipping still in effect? ill buy one today if they are

So your saying its doable, but that would require me to build it in the trunk right? I can get some more precise measurements soon Edit: also, im limited in port sq inches to 100 because the ski hole pass is 8x17. and thats before wood thickness also. what kind 15" of subs do you think would do well in a smaller bandpass box

well, i want to do bandpass as its the most efficient way to get all the bass into the car. esp since the back seats wont be flipped down. the 2600 will include a h.o. singer alt, a double din pioneer touchscreen, 2 sets of speakers, 4 channel amp, wiring, extra batteries, box materials that include plexiglass, so there wasnt too much room for overhead. what amp would you recommend? and if i did 2 15s, im looking at 400-500$ in just subs.

hello everyone! Ive got 2600$ to spend on audio equipment in a friends 2005 Nissan altima 3.5 SE sedan. it needs to be a well rounded system. with balanced mids, highs, and bass. Basically, im planning to run a crunch gp3000 for bass, and i need to know what i can fit in the trunk. I want do a bandpass box because my buddy doesnt want to have to have the back seats down as he often has more than 2 people riding around with him. and he wants to do 15s or an 18. So, i wanted to cut out the back of the rear center seat behind the armrest. and build a 4th order bandpass box with the port right through what will be a ski pass so that all the sound goes right into the cabin. now for some dimensions- the port opening will be 8 inches wide and 12 inches tall if i want to leave the flip down armrest on. if need be, i can get rid of it and have up to 17 inches tall if i need more port area. Now, i can build the box in the trunk if need be, but only if it means i can get 2 15s in a bandpass. in order to make a simple, removable box, my max dimensions are 34 wide by 28 deep by 18 tall. and that would put the box about 10 inches away from the ski pass, so the port would be internal and external. Is that enough space for a single 15 or 18 that would be happy with the crunch gp3000? i can get more exact measurements of the rest of the trunk if i need more airspace and decide i want to build the box in the trunk. ( but building it in the trunk would obviously give me lots more airspace. ) ok, now that im done rambling on and on, any thoughts and constructive critizm is greatly appreciated. I am looking foward to starting to buy equipment and getting this build rolling! Thanks, Brandon.

price on 2 level 2 10s d2 m1 shipped to 24014 please

sounds awesome to me (literally) lmao!!!

i cant wait to get demos!!

aww man its been 6k dayz since anyone has!!! been drunk on this awesome site! what the fucrk! well mister brandon otis hrere is definitely drunk qs hell!!! whoooooohhhhhoooooorrwdcfchjbjdcehk,cjefncun

interested in your hifonics brutus amp. pm sent.

about to crack open some coronas with some limes and smoke some hookah!

is there a chart as far as what car they fit in or is it just direct inquiries

hey i can post in here i think, um foru hooked the fcuk up marggaritas in from my job andk about to order another set of twp fir ones! cheers everyboady