bassl0va

Well I'm down here in NZ and I'm looking at 2 XL 15"s. Shipping isn't cheap to get it down here, although it probably isn't as bad to get it to Aus. Probably 1.2 cubes or something for a ported 10" lvl 5.

The guy at the shop was being a dick, but you gotta respect that they have to try and sell their stuff so that they can put food on the table.

If he can build sealed boxes then he could build you a slot port. But if you wanted aeros then yeah, just get him to make a box, then you cut the holes.

You can PM me if you want.

Yeah, well I guess he just has to go for matching 15"s and a decent amp. It will still be better than half the stuff in town anyway judging by what he said.

I thought the plan was that he gets a different box too?

Don't forget that he will have money from selling his current subs and amp, and the $500 budget was only for subs and an amp I think.

Yeah, I swear you can sense when someone is replying and you jump in and post before them. Lol. @skullz those pioneers are nice subs, but I'm sure he can get something better for the money.

Make sure you put some pretty good bracing in it, you'll need it with the lvl 5. If you put elbows in then you just measure the length down the center of the port. The great thing is that if you run the ports through the seat or rear deck then most of the port isn't in the box which means that it should be easier to get the right tuning and have sufficient port area.

Lol, hell no, you'd need to be running 20kw to need that, somehow I think that's not what you're aiming for in this build . There should be a guide on here somewhere, but it is basically: batt - to engine block, batt - to ground, batt + to alt + EDIT: Damn, ninja'd by Kranny

There should be room for the big 3. It's only 3 pieces of 0g wire under the hood, so unless the engine bay is super tight you can easily do it.

What about running them through the rear deck? That would be better than cutting hole in your seats. Also, what thickness wood are you using?

I'd use strong as heck epoxy.

I'm still here if you need help you know, I sent you an idea and you never replied?

Your welcome, I hope it goes well

If you ain't got anything good or useful to say then GTFO. We all have to start somewhere, I'm sure you started with something similar.

Fail by me, .

Whether the amp has one or not, you need one at the battery. If the power wire slips out of the amp and touches ground, the fuse in the amp isn't in the circuit anymore so something will catch fire (probably the wire) and your car will burn to the ground. If the mono amp has a full range output (pass through) then just use that, it will work fine too.

The fuse should go as close to the battery as possible and then run a wire to the back of your car and into a distribution block that splits to both the amps. The HUs pre out (if it only has one ofcourse) goes to the splitter which then goes to both amps, or, if your mids/highs amp has a pass through output then just run that to the other amps input. If you need to use the splitter method, yes, two of them.

If you are on a cheap budget, a Y-splitter will work ok. No need to pay someone if you know reasonably well what you are doing.

Not really, the window should really be fully down (and to to a fully proper hairtrick the hair should float up). I don't think there is a strict definiton of a hairtrick though (car audio dictionary anyone?)

^ fixed it.

That window is quite high up, more than halfway.

When you say quality music you mean SQ right? You won't really need 15"s or 18"s for SQ. A 12" or 10" (or two 10"s) will add enough bass for balanced sound. BTW for all those who can't read, I'm not saying that only small subs are good for SQ, I'm saying that you don't need that much bass for SQ, you only need enough for it to be balanced.

But I don't think that any of us on here can say that we have heard such a level