bassl0va

Someone must love 10 volts. Would you suggest or recommend that though? Would he? Hell yes! I was taught this way, and it's how we run shit in my car Never had any problems with it

Um, BTL I'm guessing? haha

Like someone else said, try batteries first. If that doesn't work, then get an alt. Maybe get another yellow top or something.

It probably just sounds good, with an acronym made up to fit the letters.

We thought about having bestbuy install it but we wanted to save the $50 and have learning experience lol Yeah, fair enough. When I did it I got the loom that plugged into the new headunit, and the loom that plugged into the car, then cut and put some crimp bullet connectors on for it to be all plugged up later on. It felt pretty good when I got them all done correctly first time

You could send it to an installer maybe, they mostly do headunits everyday, so most places will do a good job. I learnt how to hook one up just the other day, it's easy if you have someone to show you what to do in person.

x1,000,000,000,000,0001,000,000,000,000 Retired dudes with a house, 2 garages and a rented storage room filled with vintage audio gear is also a good source of high end demos. Or his friends shop that sells similar stuff. Those 2 and my mothers cousin and his super expensive headphone gear are the most amazing this to listen to music on. You just can't describe how awesome it sounds. It's like another world.

Thats cool, But, I don't have an SQ setup... I do 158.5@30hz, and 160.2@47-53hz... I haven't been in the scene for a while (SQ), but when I was, my buddy won world finals in 95, and was the first person ever to score a perfect 40 in the RTA, which sounded like complete shit musically... 10hz? why would you want to play that low? the human ear can only pick up 20-20khz, I thought... The OP was just asking what people meant, so I gave him my opinion on what they meant... Yes, flat from 30-65 is somewhat poor. But lets be fair, I don't think that he built it for awesome flat response and accuracy at 125db or so. Also a car is a shit place to bother with SQ, that's what a listening room is for I didn't realize that was that bad... No, I didn't build it to be an SQ machine for sure... Lol... Agreed on the no place for SQ in a car... Lol... Well for a car that goes that loud it's probably pretty damn good, and you could also EQ it so that it is flat from 15hz up but only does whatever you meter at 15hz. But where is the fun in that? haha 10hz material is found in pipe organ music and similar stuff, harmonics or whatever of string instruments and stuff. And of course in movies, but you don't really worry about that in a car, lol. Which is why comparing what you get from your car to something you can get from a IB or tapped horn in a properly built HT room is kinda stupid

Yes, flat from 30-65 is somewhat poor. But lets be fair, I don't think that he built it for awesome flat response and accuracy at 125db or so. Also a car is a shit place to bother with SQ, that's what a listening room is for

Lets go to an extreme end of the scale and say you play music in an Alan Dante's Volvo, imagine what it will sound like (obviously this isn't with it right up, and ignore the fact that there aren't mids/highs). It will be extremely peaky and sound like ass in general, but it's kinda a subjective scale. I'd say a proper musical subwoofer will play extremely flat, low, be very accurate etc. Also if you are really picky you wouldn't allow it to be super loud either.

lolWUT. #4 and 5 have 15 and 16, respectively. There ARE 2 sides to a car lol wut? Actually it's 16 and 14. Last time I checked that added up to either 32 or 28

lol, sweet. yeah, you need yourself a demo Says the guy who is posting a off topic comment and has an even smaller post number 234? Is that even a number Just kidding mate

Yeah, still haven't finished the build so I guess we'll see. Yep, was going to do that between the roof and box. It is almost hard up against the doors so they kinda hold it too Sounds pretty on topic to me

Just thought I'd ask this, for the last week that I have had a wall, it has creaked when driving around corners and such. It's made out of double layer 3/4" with a 2x4" external frame and a 2" baffle, so it's damn strong and doesn't flex when playing. I'm assuming it's just the car twisting and putting stress on the wood while cornering?

Lol wut? none of those combinations equal 30? Choice 1 looks the best, but certainly will require some other mounting places for the other 14 6.5"s

Distance tests don't mean all too much. Unless your comparing something to one of them Mexican cars with like 20 12"s, 40 6.5"s and a few hundred tweeters.

You can just make it a long pipe, either square or made out of sonotube. Or you can fold it however you want. To design them, have a look in the enclosures/subwoofer section on here, theres hould be a sticky thread by forevrbumpn about designing them.

I'm sure you could get more if you gave each speaker it's own box. That way you would have more sensitivities to add together Link to idiots FB profile? lol

You save money in the long run by buying the more expensive stuff, so there is no point in getting that cheap 5500w crap or anything similar. If you buy cheap stuff, it either breaks, or has $0 value the second you have used it.

No, you don't need an alternator, you can just get a good battery or 2. I think some of the people on here get aroused by the idea of installing an alternator, they get horny just thinking about them.

I'm guessing that the 0-100db is meant to be 0-10db and would be the bass boost, And the other would be the HPF? What's the gain set at? What other stuff are you using?

I've rewound a coil by hand. It is the coil I'm using on my extreme 5.25", it uses a alpine type E motor and a rewound coil, as the old one was fried. I don't see why people are telling him not to do it? Let him try it by hand, he will soon find out how hard it is to do. But it doesn't mean it can't work, I used wire recycled from a old transformer (so it had little bends in it) which I straightened out as best as I could, then hand wound it on the former, while gluing with quick drying epoxy. It probably took me 1 and a half hours to do a 4 layer coil. It was then unwound down to a 2 layer coil to fit in the gap better. It's not that hard to make a machine to wind them either. Look at that video, it's just a special lathe, but minus the cutting equipment mounts. Just get metal pipes with the correct diameter to make a certain sized coil, build a new speed controller to drive the motor at a lower speed, and then the wire spool holder, and winding device. You just set it up and brush on epoxy as it winds it. At the dude who said something about building your own amp, so what? Why not? Maybe don't try and build a 10k amp from scratch, but you can get home audio amplifier kits, I have one for a 200 watt RMS ultra low distortion monoblock (or build 2 for stereo of course) it was easy enough to make. Just take it one step at a time, and don't discourage people from trying new things.

Lol, Imports don't last as long

Good point . Ford's are strange though. haha. A bit tricky at times