bassl0va

But then you have port noise, and it will be tuned to 25hz or so.

If they will all fit in you might as well do it. If they don't your screwed

Yep, and it doesn't matter if you have 100 1" ports, they still have to be 32". I guess you might have to go back to the drawing board?

If that 32"s was worked out for the combined port area, then each one is 32".

They combine. Imagine getting all those ports and squishing them into one. The area adds up, but the length stays the same. So work out the area, then divide by 6, then work out the diameter of each one, and cut all 6 to the length you worked out. BTW. Aero ports are flared, meaning the ones in the pic aren't aero ports. Also, aero ports change tuning a bit.

As alway, there is always one

oh god, another one of these hard to tell, but I'll play along and say 145

If you build a great ported box for the kenwoods, they would probably be better than the type R's in that pre-fab sealed. I'm sure you could save up a little more and make a nice box for the type R's

No one has tried this, maybe you could? If it won't overheat the H/U, you could wrap it in deadening. Thats just an idea, just wondering if it would work?

You can fiberglass a pod, then attach it to the door, then put some kind of stuff over the door to cover the seams, such as vinyl or carpet.

Yep, get the other 4. It will make the funniest build log

lol, no one has commented because you put funky pup in the title. What has junky pupz got to do with your pyles o' poop? sorry, couldn't help myself. Wonder how the pyles will workout?

These are just recommendations, my sub recommends 3 cubes, I have it in 8 cubes, and running off twice the RMS that it is rated for, yes it get s very warm, but as long as you are careful it doesn't matter. You won't have this problem though as you are only over by <1 cube and probably giving it rated power.

Sounds cool, the thicker the wood you can get in the better. Make a build log please. It sounds interesting

three of those monsters in a blowthru! Dude, your nuts. You could use 3/4 MDF, then do all the other stuff, but only do it where it won't interfere with mounting.

Well. If you glass and resin and CF it, won't it be to thick? what size sub/subs are you trying to fit?

Yeah but to have it 24, you have to divide the port area between your ports to work out how many you need, then they all have to be 24". Um, you could use granite, I hear that makes amazing boxes. Or if you can't find granite, lead might work, or steel. Honestly, why don't you want to go thick on wood?

Thats recommended size, My 18" says to put it in a 3 cube box, I have it in a 8 cube one, and off twice the rated power, it gets warm but it still goes fine. I'd say <2 cubes for the 12" if it's going to be given that much.

Can you stop double posting please?

unless there are LEDs inside you wont see much. It's still too thin! So those ports you have are extendable? I think someone said how long you need up there ^ somewhere.

wrap the outside in carbon fiber . It's a waste to have carbon fiber and not show it. It's still not going to be a good as if it was made out of 1" with all that stuff, look at all the 15 cube boxes on here, 3" thick with fiberglass etc. too. Your box will be flexing like a (someone help me out here?). Also we don't k now how long those ports you have are. Info, info, info.

If you gave dimensions and wood thickness it would be far easier to work out.

Sundown=reliable

Dude, you should know what they are talking about, read your title, then their posts. Be careful with your titles Oh, PM me how much room you got and i can design you one

Take the woofers out, measure them. Generally 3ohms=4ohms in subwoofers because they measure the impedance not the DC resistance. Like someone else said put a 9v battery on the terminals (without the amp connected to the subs )they should both move out, but if the both move in its fine too. As long as they move the same way. Maybe give us pics or vids of them.