bassl0va

People like you. In all seriousness, why? You can access the site on Safari, no need to waste time making an app that maybe 500 people will use. An app could have everything in one place, making it faster and easier to use. Plus, the stupid garage section up the top of the page is 2 cars too big, it makes it a pain to use TBH. It's a cool idea, and having it is great, but it isn't set up the best. The site has everything in one place. That's one of the issues with making an app, you have to learn to port it to Windows phones, iPhones, Android phones, etc. Web based is probably the best opinion. There are some things that could be changed in an app to make it quicker to navigate. Yeah, but it could be a good project for a budding software engineer.

People like you. In all seriousness, why? You can access the site on Safari, no need to waste time making an app that maybe 500 people will use. An app could have everything in one place, making it faster and easier to use. Plus, the stupid garage section up the top of the page is 2 cars too big, it makes it a pain to use TBH. It's a cool idea, and having it is great, but it isn't set up the best.

I was wondering if anyone was thinking of making a SMD iPad/iPhone app, I'm pretty sure it would be pretty popular, especially since there are so many members on here. Home theater shack has one, so why can't we!

If you are going to use 2 18"s, I'm pretty sure it is going to need to be bigger than a half wall. I'd say 3/4 wall minimum. Or just fully wall it.

I'm guessing that it will go down, but not much, just a few hertz. But I'm positive that the change would be different for every woofer. Some companys may measure it with a broken in woofer, I guess you'd just have to ask the said company.

Just try the selenium ones, if Trippi uses them, they must be good.

Dibs on that for my sig. You should do a build with some. Prove that they aren't quite as shit as people say. It will be like: "woah? What subs you got?" and you'll be like "oh, nothing much, just some pyles of crap"

Bottoming out is a combination of things, it could be playing content that is too low below box tuning without having a sufficient subsonic filter. It could be too much power in a certain box, or it could be rated power in a box that is far too big. Don't worry, we'll make sure it won't happen to you. So you want the baffle to be removable? That is possible, you just want to make sure that you have a amazing seal, and that the baffle bolts on and not just uses wood screws. My wall is going to have a removable baffle too probably. If you do a shitty job of it, you'll lose numbers, do it right though and there should be no difference. I'd use t-nuts and nice beefy bolts to hold the subs in, of you could use those roofing screws that Steve uses (I think) To make the subs flush mount you make another panel that goes over the main baffle with a cutout that is bigger than the sub. Such as this: This is a double layer box (and double layer baffle) with the extra panel on top, no bracing either, and it works great, the box doesn't flex. I have forgotten what size subs they are, so correct me if I'm wrong. 2 18"s (depending on how much power you will give them) will want between 12-18 cubes (although more has been used, such as 21 cubes, the guy wanted lots of box rise though so that's one reason why it was built big). If you are feeding each one rated (is that like 1250? I'm guessing it is less than the XL but more than the lvl 4) then 16 cubes may be ok, if you are going to give them like 2K each, maybe go for 14 cubes. A good idea for this is to build a big frame (2x4"s probably) then line that with MDF. That may be 25 cubes, now what you can do is put more boards of MDF in to make it the correct volume for the subs. Doing this allows you to upgrade and add another (or different/more) woofers in and you won't have a huge pain taking stuff out, especially with a removable baffle.

Those ones that Trippi used in his ride seem to be good. Selenium I think. They may be super tweets though.

Mate, spiders are softparts Bottoming out is when the coil hits the back plate, it screws up subs if it happens enough. And you use a smaller box to handle more power, this means that the subs are more restricted so there is less chance at bottoming out.

Nobody ever listens on here Maybe they don't have a DMM? they're like $10 I know right? Tightasses

Nobody ever listens on here Maybe they don't have a DMM?

No I did not buy them they were given to me, I'm gonna check out psi see if they are even worth fixing thanks bassl0va If you decide not to fix them up I'll have them. Haha. Your welcome

Only reason I reckon you should put 6.5" components up the front is because they will sound better, 6x9"s aren't really known for sound quality. Oh, you've already done it? Damn, well, I still reckon it would be worth it if you have some spare monies. Yeah, we don't want it looking too purdy.

So all those people with multiple alts and huge systems only rev the car up to 2000RPM for fun? I'm sure that a 300A alt would easily put out more at idle speed than a stock 60A would if it was being taken to the red line. But H/O alts would put out the most a higher RPM. Now time for the maxi-post Mate, the whole point of this website is for people to learn (well, and show off ) if people who knew absolutely nothing didn't make thread with severely stupid questions, they wouldn't learn anything. Every time I see the OP apologize for their question I facepalm, haha, normally we are being rude or arguing with each other instead of answering the OP's question. To avoid being flamed, always have a look in the search section (if you can find anything in there, it's almost as bad as google sometimes. Yes, I don't like google sometimes) and if you didn't find anything in there, say that you didn't. Some people get annoyed when they have to answer the same question 5 times in a week. Sometimes we sound rude, we don't mean to (most of the time ) we just don't think you are ready for doing a certain thing. Hdorre didn't mean to call you dumb (I hope) he was just saying that putting twice the rated power mightn't be a good idea until you have learnt a bit more. But yeah, keep asking if you need to, you gotta start somewhere. Now that you explain what he said better, it makes more sense, and I would agree with him. It's always a good idea to have the engine running though, the more current you have on supply the less likely voltage drop is. But yeah, as dwright said that earlier, more batteries first. People on here have an obsession for alts, say you run an Atomic 3K, you will be fine with just more batteries, unless you want to sit there for more than like 30 minutes with it on full. Then an alt would be a good idea to keep everything good. I reckon you'll be fine for batteries just now, you can always get an alt later on. You should get some insane hairtricks going with a tune like that . What were you going to run again? 2 18" lvl 4's w/ lvl 5 soft parts? All I can say about batteries is that 2 of These held up great with a Stetsom 10k, and on another occasion with an Atomic 3K at half an ohm. A 3K amp on a burp will probably draw 350A or more, on music, much less. You'd be fine with a 200A one, but if you are sure you will upgrade to lots more power, you might as well invest in a bigger one. Don't worry about an alt just yet though. Pretty sure isn't good enough , it is a very important thing to know when planning a system. Especially when choosing amps. Not knowing is all the fun! I don't know about American Bass, but Atomic is as good as Sundown. And everyone seems to go for Sundown, so lets get some more Atomic power going! Or you could go used and get their 3K. You're welcome

When you say got, I hope you didn't mean payed for, because if you did they ripped you off . Blown coil or shifted pole piece, probably the first one though, since it has happened to both. You could get them reconed, contact PSI and see what they can do for you.

Not to thread jack, but OP, you still haven't given me definite, measured dimensions of your trunk. And yeah, go for it, they will be fine on that power, you can always turn it down after all.

actually i think the new atomics are USA built with USA parts Do they still use the same board? Or just different parts? Whatever they use they are still damn good amps. haha

Just play it how you did when you first got the sub, after all, that's pretty much what a recone is.

You can tune then different pairs, so channels 1 & 2 share a gain knob and 3 & 4 share one. TBH, I think I'd rather have them the other way around, or change the 6x9"s for a 6.5" component set and put the 6x9"s in the rear. And although it's already been answered, they will be fine. The surrounds on my 6.5" components have been kinda crushed a bit by my door cards. Like, made narrower from where the door card pushed on the foamy bit that gets glued over the edge of the surround. Damn it is hard to explain, but yeah, just my 2 cents.

Not to be offensive towards the jet dude, I'm sure he knows a whole bunch of stuff about jets, but what the heck do jets have to do with car audio? haha Have a look at Atomic too, they are the same internally as the sundown and crescendo amps and it would be a change since everybody seems to go for sundown and crescendo on here. haha What were you thinking of doing for the box? How many cubes and tuning freq? He was saying he doesn't think you should run 2KW per sub. I don't know if he was suggesting that you are stupid, but the general rule is that you shouldn't run too much more than rated RMS unless you have a more experience. That kenwood won't even be doing 1800 RMS, it probably only does 800 RMS or something. So if it is set so that it isn't clipping it will be fine for the time being. x2 I'm pretty sure you got that the wrong way around, H/O alts produce the most power at higher RPMs, stock ones would most likely be designed to produce their power at normal speeds and idle. You can have H/O alts made to do more at lower RPMs though.

Will this be a bandpass then? Because that would probably be the best idea if they will be shut in the trunk by themselves. HID is a different technology, it stands for high Intensity Discharge, as for how it works I don't know. An LED is a Light Emitting Diode, far simpler and it uses less current to run, I don't think there are any LEDs that are bright enough to be used as headlights (particularly high-beams). LEDs could be used for internal lights and pretty much every other light apart from the main headlights. Is this 350 watts of dedicated midbass? Such as from 70-250hz?

So you want ot do something like this? Or just have the port going through that hole? 1KW for the mids/highs when you are only running 2KW for the subs? And you won't need 2 alts for that. To stop dimming you could replace all the lights with LEDs, then you won't have any dimming at all

If they are free could you take both?

Yep, it looks like it would be worth it. Or trade the xbox for a ps3