fr34kout

I think mine was 98.x volts and 26.x amps

I was the one telling you about the 4500. Starting at .7 ohms rising to 3.67 ohms. Clamping 2600 watts @ 3.67 ohms which is pretty damn impressive. Voltage drop down to about 13.2 and at 39 hz. Edit: It's rated 2k @ 2 ohms and 900 @ 4 ohms. and I'm getting an extra 600 watts at almost double the impedance. By the specs I should only be clamping about 1200 watts

If the gain is too high on the amps it will also be drawing too much current. Could over heat and fry components within the amp.

Because "max" isn't a realistic number. If your amp is 2000 rms, "4000 peak" the 4000 means NOTHING because you will NEVER see that power out of your amp. Quoting exactly what you said "why the hell wouldnt i list what my system is capable of?" your system is not capable of making the "peak power" so it means absolutely nothing. If you went on ebay and bought an amp that was rated 100 watts rms, 10,000 watts peak, the only number that matters is 100 watts rms. Learn2caraudio

First of all, don't ever list "peak" values lmao. Second, I have an Envoy which should be the same vehicle just SUV vs truck. What engine do you have, the I6 or the 5.3? I have a 5.3 and went with a Mechman 270 amp. Got a Sundown 4500 with 2 Group 31's in the back and a Group 34 in the front, drop to about 13.2 on music full tilt.

dude, who is that in your avatar? Jayden James, thank me later lol

If you're running the mids active, you should also be running the tweeters active. Are you asking how low they are normally crossed with the provided crossover? If that's the case, might as well just run the passive crossover for the mids and tweeters imho. Most people who run active usually give mids their own channel and tweeters their own channel on either the same or different amps, and bypass passive crossovers all together.

The way you made it sound was that there was just a 3 selector switch where you can only choose LP Full or HP with no pots to adjust the settings. If you have both LP and HP pots, set it at full and adjust each pot.

If you're running active, you want a lpf and a hpf for the mid range drivers. Depending on where you want it crossover, usually something like 125 HPF and 2k-3k LPF.

Sorry to break it to you, but there's no magic way to fix scratches, especially deep one. Very light scratches in paint can be buffed out, deep scratches require you to build the paint back up before you smooth it out. With paint you're talking about less than 1 mm of material, for plastic you're talking about a lot more material. Take a blow torch or lighter to it, try to melt it down in that area to get it smoother? Not much else you can do.

You could try to carefully fill the scratches with clear resin. Do a little at a time, wipe off the excess around it before it hardens so you have less to deal with later. Once you get fill the scratch completely, let the resin cure and then wet sand with something like 1500-2000 grit sandpaper till it's smooth. After that just buff it out. Bonus points if you tint the tail lights afterward.

Yea the Buzz Lightyear was correct. I didn't ask what band it was

"BTL is the initials of a rock band that Scott of Fi likes.."

Hehe I'm from HCA and I know the answer.

Nice 300ZX. Just had to point out that these (4x6's? looks too small to be 5x7's) are coaxials not components lol

Yea, but what size wire are you planning on running? You're going to run 12 ga if you want to run 2 crossovers to 1 channel. Someone may chime in with why you shouldn't even do this to begin with, but I can't think of anything off the top of my head.

Ok if that's what you meant, then like I said I've heard changing the ohm load on crossovers (ie running a 2 ohm speaker for a crossover meant for a 4 ohm speaker) will mess with the crossover points. But if you wire the 2 sets to each channel, they are independent of each other in my eyes. I wouldn't wire the crossovers to each other, instead I would run 2 positive wires and 2 negative wires from each channel, and just send 1 to each crossover. That way, they only meet each other at the amp terminals.

Like the above poster said, you could wire them in parallel but you will lose your left / right. I've heard wiring crossovers in parallel will mess with the crossover settings (double or half the settings) but I've never tried it out myself. What he might of meant (or thought he meant) was bridging the 4 channel to your front stage. Basically if you run (varies by amp) channels 1 & 2 to the left component set and channels 3 & 4 to the right component set, the amp will see 4 ohms across each pair of channels effectively dropping the ohm load to 2 ohms per channel. For example, my Sundown SAX-100.4 I was running bridged to the front speakers. Rating is 100x4 @ 4 ohms, 160x4 @ 2 ohms. I ran channels 1 & 2 to my left component set and channels 3 & 4 to my right component set. RMS was 320 watts per door (1 mid range, 1 tweeter) since the 4 ohm load was split between the 2 channels. The way I wired the RCA's was to have channels 1 & 2 have the LF and LR signals, and 3 * 4 had the RF and RR signals. What I wanted to do was buy a y splitter ad run only the LF to channels 1 & 2 for the speaker and RF to channels 3 & 4 for the certain songs that play differently between the front and rear speakers. That way the front speakers wouldn't be playing what only the rears were supposed to play.

I told him he needs to top off his batteries to start. He's got a Stetsom 11k with 6 blue tops and idk what battery in the front. Batteries have got to be drained from all the sampo's you've given ryan lmao. Throw them bitches on a charger and once they're topped off THEN check your voltage. If it's still low, do your whole big 3 cheapass XD

I get paid tuesday, I might pick these up if you still have em. Was having a discussion about them and nobody down here has used them. Kind of interested to see if I will gain on my 4500.

The XXX moved a lot more air, but it didn't meter nearly as high. I think the XXX might of sounded louder from the passenger seat too. You need some deadener or something, I wanna feel that 153 in the front lol. You get your alt in already?

all the subs you listed do totally different things... the tsns and xxx are to closest in sound but the tsns will put out more. mt and lvl5 get loud when you put the power to it but no way in hell do they get as deep as the xxx. if your sticking with the xxx they wont take more than 4k each and they just wake up at 2k each imo. And if you get XXX subs, make sure your car is running or you might blow the sub

Seller was an old member on the Hawaii forums, haven't seen him post on there that it was sold. I know somebody locally was also thinking about picking it up but not sure if he changed his mind.

Iirc they come with the disc, and have a limited amount of downloads. For instance you may only be able to load the software on 3 computers. Somebody locally had to pay $50 online to download the new software, I'm not sure if he got it straight through the termlab website or what.

Is there anybody on here that winds their own coils? As far as I know most coils are built and shipped from build houses. Even Foreverbumpin (might of spelled that wrong) most likely buys his coils prewound. Not saying you can't do it, just saying it would probably be cheaper, easier, and more efficient to buy the coils premade.