tomypg

looking good mang

It is not the fact that he is running 4 AWG wire versus 0 AWG wire... Frm the information provided it is the fuse, or the fuse holder. Yes OP SHOULD upgrade to 0 AWG but that isnt hampering the amp turning on.....

two amps in series off of one battery

Okay, so this little project is for a bit of fun with all the gear I have lying around since my big amp got stolen. Since I am the only one of my friends with a decent party stereo I thought i would make a slightly more portable machine. This is going to be made as cheap as possible So this is the specs so far: 1 x Wheelie bin (like the one on the right) 3 x Computer power supplies ( 1kw total power output at 12v) Possibly replaced by a transformer for a better voltage (Custom wound) 1 x Kenwood KFC-3011 sub S4 coil. 2 x Venom 100w 6x9 2 x 6.5 or 5.5 components (Waiting for mate to donate such item) 1 x Cheap as hell head unit with AUX input 1 x Strobe light 4 x cooling modules So the idea is the sub will be in the bottom, sealed of from the top with a ported enclosure ported to 37 Hz, then above that there will be the 6 x 9's in a sealed enclosure above the subs, possibly along with the 6.5/5.5's. Then above that there will be enough room to stick your beers! This is where the cooling modules come in, keep the brews cold! The headunit will be poking up just under the lid, and the stobe will be angling out of the bin at the back, with mirrors on the lid to help reflect it. And to top it off, LED's running of the headunit to the beat So pics up tomorrow of gear in the light, coming into winter so light aint good at 5pm... It wont be until friday when I start doing the sub section of the bin. Cheers for cheking out atm, I know I'm going to get some "cool story bro"s but what the hell.

Yea fair enough, But why not save on shipping and waiting and getting it anyway, means less upgrading later I'm very surprised how cheap everything over in the USA is... GOD DAYUM, i needa get my ass over there.

I see that you chose a mobo with an inbuilt graphics card. Even if your just going to be browsing internet and videos and stuff and you said you might do some minor editing, I bet you will every once in a while play a game Get a graphics card with about 256mb on ram, and it will keep you afloat with most games on low/medium. WOW: good price! http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121360

Im not sure about the US, But here in NZ you have to re register your car as a commercial vehicle and you can do 0% tints e.g block back windows, Means yu have to remove back seatbelts etc.

I ran 2400 watts of a stck battery, 55 amp alternator and an agm battery in the boot. And dropped to 11.9 at full tilt car off.

The more money you have the more amps you can get. Simple, get as much as you can, the more the alternator can producethe less voltage drop, call up iraggi or dc power, they can sort out an insane alternator or two for you. EDIT: basically, you need 530 amp plus your average car runni g amps for ac etc, so in reality your looking at around 600 amps, so try to get 600 amps. A 300 amp alternator and a couple of good batteries should be sweet.

I had two 1000WRMS twelves in a 1988 honda city, soon to be two 18 either walled or below the window.

So maybe steve or the mods should take away the sports section, and everything else that is not members builds or directly related to car audio. It's cool to see people with common intrests and let's members get to know other member a little more, even if it is jut the fact they play guitar, play football or have a massive clamshell in there van.

Yo check ma rock band out at www.myspace.com/scenemusic09, I play an ESP eclipse-II and play mostly death metal and math metal, but I got into this rock band to play live gigs and it's great fun, I play through a Randall rg75, soon upgrDing to a Randall head and possibly getting an ibanez 7 or 8 string.

Calculate it out. 6000 watts/14.4 = 417 amps. One 300 amp alternator, depending on brand, will easily put out 75 percent of it's capacity a idle( I hope ), so 300 x .75 = that's 225 amps. So your getting round about half your power from the alternator. That's assuming you want no voltage drop, bu the two xs batts should keep that, personally I would get two for 6kw, but you can get away with one. Irragi and dc power should have dual alt kits for your car, if not they can custom make them.

Haha, yea bro, got my front stage prett much sorted, just functional ATM. Go my 6.5 compenents and 10 inch subs in the doors. Such a small car that's all it really needs. Luckily the 10 s hold me over for bass until the large rebuild. Haha. Finally got a 2 way alarm and definantly going to lock stuff up alot better...

ShiPoint of somthing that weight would be about 200 bums... Not worth it when I can get 4k from two amps. Think my desicion is made, get two of the amps, sell twelves, get one 18 for now, and do door stuff, then go from there. Thanks for all the help guys. I would love to get my grubby hands on anything from the states, but shipping is incredibly expensive, and impracticle for anything...

He has ascendant audio mayhems. So yes, 3 coils to one and 3 to the other.

Yea, thats why I was so keen on getting it again. Haha, seems no body wants them, Go good with my two 18 plan. Was looking at the soundstream DTR1700.1, but to expensive compared. Thanks for your help Boon

Where did you ground the amp?

I wish, I don't think there would be many if any in New Zealand, Boon: The idiot must of clamped the input not output, dammit. The fusions are .5 ohm stable, thats what I had mine on... I would really want to spend 700 on a new amp, or I can get the two 2500.1's for 800 new. Hmm, desicions. Stuff is just too expensive over here...

Thats good to know! My ipod touch should be sweet!

I would prefer to use the USB line out, as this means no clipping from the ipod (unless clipping on the song), however ith a 3.5 jack into the headphones you may turn it up too loud on the ipod. Just a thought

Haha, in full effect as we speak... Me and my mates stuff got stolen, both his amp, only one of mine... We both have the same type of car but different colours... :

Can you make a poll on mobile mode? Cops ain't done shit. I parked it inside my school in a place with only one entrace am some muther comes down and jacks it, there are cameras onthe entrance and not the car itself, so police can't so anything... My 1k down the drain as I payed retail for it.... Edit: poll added

Hey, my amp got stolen last week from my car and I obviously need to get some bass into my ride, my 1988 Honda city. However I have a few options, can you guys suggest what you would go with? The amp I had was a fusion nv 2500.1 with clamped power of just under 3k at .5 ohm. I was running two 1000 watt fusion nv 12 inch subs. Now only he amp was stolen, so should I: A) get the same amp again (cheapest = fastest) B ) sell twelves, buy Two of these amps again, then two eighteens?( longest wait but biggest bass) or C) sell twelves, buy amp and one eighteen, and do some new door shit? I jut want a second opinion on it as all options would be sweet, but some more money comsumig thN others. Thanks

What batteries? As i will say again in my first post to answer your question: "charging batteries is 14.4 volts. The voltage is regulated using a regulator, normally these are regulated to 14.4 - 14.7 for charging, your alternator sounds perfectly fine, it's just the regulator doing it's work. Your alternator will charge slightly higher when it is cold, that's normal but when it's warmed up it should perform around 14.4 - 14.7 I don't even get over 14 volts at all. " Volts doesn't relate to the amps it is putting out. You could be putting out your 220amps at 14.0 volts for all it cares. The reason your voltage may be jumping is that the regulator will detect a voltage drop with your system bumping r your A/C on, it will then increase idle voltage to combat this. An MLA module means you control it yourself and also means you must manually self correct voltage drops. I have never seen over 14v. I constantly get 12.9 volts and then when my lights are turned on it may rise up to 13.7 - 13.8. This is the regulator doing it's work. I know that is really bad and that is why I don't use proper audio batteries as my charging is no where near enough volts. My batteries rest at 12.6 volts... When you charge them and test them do you remove the surface charge? If oyur charger charges at 13.8volts the battery may only have a surface charge... Your alternator is functioning perfectly fine. 15Volts may even harm your cars ECU or onboard functions, albeit depending on your vehicle. Your alternator performs alot better than mine and I can squeeze 3krms with one extra car battery and a deep cycle... dropping to 12 flat with a 55 amp alt. Be happy you have a H/O... EDIT:Kranny said: "high output alts cant output alot of current on idle." You said: "i know this but at 2k rpm it about the same as 800" And I say, unless you have a current meter on there that I highly doubt then it is not the same at 2krpm and 800rpm. The voltage is still regulated, but the current will increase.