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Tony D

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About Tony D

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  • Birthday April 17

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  1. Please try now it should be fixed Tony Here's the link to save you some time https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0756/7235/files/speaker_design_spreadsheet_-_rev_c.xlsm?v=1610569623
  2. Hi Christian, tell me more about what happened please. 1. I see that it is about a year old, has it been working fine until now? 2. Did you change anything about your bench setup? Like power supply to AD-1? 3. Have you tried running the AD-1 on 12V battery power alone (no chargers or power supplies)? Thanks! Tony
  3. Who's ready for Kfest? We are! Please stop by our booth at the Dallas Convention Center, booth 1127, and check out our demo car. We know that we have been absent from the forum for a bit, we apologize for that. When you see our demo car you will know why, we have been locked in the lab for a couple years and we are ready to show you what we did. We will also have some SMD test equipment on display and a lab bench setup with an Audio Precision and scope. I mean this is KNOWLEDGEfest right? We are bringing some knowledge. If you know my stance on Class D amplifiers, then consider
  4. Having a second VM-1 can be a great tool. By plugging one into the 12V (lighter) outlet, you will be reading the voltage at battery/alternator basically because there is very little current flowing to the 12V lighter outlet. Voltage drop is calcuated by this formula Amps X Ohms = Volts, thus is you basically have zero amps flowing, you can not have a voltage drop, and thus you will be reading the battery/alternator voltage. HOWEVER, voltage AT your amplifier(s) can be a totally different thing. Huge currents can flow to the amplifier(s), even though the resistance of the wiring is small,
  5. Corrected version: J=(CV^2)/2 (J= joules, C=capacitance, V=voltage) for a 1 farad capacitor on a system charging at 14.2 (voltage = random number somewhere around normal car voltage I pulled out my ass for the sake of this post) J = 1 x (14.2x14.2) / 2 J = 100.82 ok lets round that to 100 ok so 1 joule = 1 watt for 1 second. now lets play with those numbers. we all know amplifiers aren't perfect, power is lost to heat, etc. a pretty common number to see is 70% efficiency at 1 ohm on a class D amp. lets say you're the typical sort of SMD person. you want bass. you want it in your face
  6. Amps have caps in them, but not for that. The power supply side has basically 2 sets of caps, typically smaller value but low ESR electrolytics on the primary side of the power supply (nearest the B+ terminal of the amp usually), and then large general purpose electrolytics on the secondary side of the power supply (the high voltage side that feeds the output section). The caps on the primary side are to keep noise from the amplifier switching on and off (the power supply doesn't draw current in a continuous manner from the car, it's actually drawing pluses of current at around 50 thousand t
  7. This doesn't sound right, please send the unit to us as soon as possible. We will take care of it and get it right back to you. D'Amore Engineering 340 Paseo Camarillo #202 Camarillo, CA 93010 I'll get it sent out today. Should I include a note or something with the package? Just your return address
  8. Funny I was going to call it the Clip Detector too, but then realized it's much more than that. It will detect any distortions to the original signal. As far as input, it will work with accuracy up to 140Vrms in, which would work out to about 20,000 Watts into 1 ohm. It won't be damaged until 200Vrms+. So sure it will handle the warhorse.... i'm wondering if the warhorse can handle it Lol, what i'm saying is I don't have any experience with the warhorse personally and I don't know how clean (or dirty) the output is. It may exceed 1.0% THD long before it nears max power. I don't know th
  9. Steve, was just checking out your build pics with the (2) T15kW's. You are a nut. Love ya man!!! Tony D'Amore
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