BCarter

get certified just to learn the mathmatics and show future employers your serious..also keep a portfolio of work you have done(make sure its clean work with great detail)..the best advice is to make an extensive resume with your portfolio and drop it off with either the head installer or sales manager..it is important not to bother them just a simple introduction and hand it to them..if you have a nice sounding vehicle with a clean install you might even offer them a demo; if they are not too busy..and if you are serious about a career in mobile electronics i suggest specializing in alarms and box building; these two things will give you more job security..

in texas driving with a suspended license is an automatic trip to jail...i got pulled over on a sat night and didn't know mine was suspended. i had to ait til monday morning to find out why; turns out i had too many violations in a three year period. so i had to pay a fine to get my license reinstated and a few weeks later all but one ticket was removed from my record cause it was after three years

the big three sounds worse than it is. once you pop your hood and trace your wires and get a good look at everything; you will relize its not any harder than installing an amp kit. a 4ch amp/ good wiring/ a proper box will take you a long way and should make you happy til you decide you need more. but a full alpine system is good nothing to be ashamed of and will surprise people when done right.

i was told the best way to build my enclosure was subs forward and aeroports up. I have never used an aeroport. My slot port was going to be 3"w/15.5"h/26"tl; my question is what size aero port to use and how many?

i girl just sold her gt that looked similar to yours..tint looks good

since your doing bags i would say 18's no bigger; if you were just lowering it i would say 17's or 18's

gamertag is: bcarteron20s just send an invite 2nd prestige level 60 i currently play on 360; but i liked ps3 better.

i was giving him a basic run-down...didn't want to over load him but yes that true

depends on the rms rating on the componet set...most hu's only put on 10-30 watts rms...i would highly reccomend using a 2 or 4 chan amp...2 way speakers has one tweeter and the mid and the higher it goes the more tweeters it has

here is the video; i put it in for one of my drifting buddies awhile back...they are on a boss amp with crappy thd rating http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6kRv4fJOJs0

i have put two in a galant in a sealed box i'll find the vid and post a link to it; which is how i know i'm not getting the output thery are capable of.

thanks for the info. i have done t-lines in suv's and in trunk's but i have never done one in a single cab truck. the internal volume is 3.99cuft without bracing/displacement/port volume. i guess 40hz is going to be my goal; my current setup is at 33hz but was built for different subs.

I have decided on the new dimensions of the new enclosure(60"w/17"H/7"TD/11"BD)still need help on what frequency to tune the port for in a single cab truck for good spl without losing alot of sq. All help is welcome!

i currently have slot port forward(its on the far left and the subs are on the far right), but i know the current box is restricting some of the output.

I just recently installed two twelves in a side ported enclosure in my truck and i am trying to determine he best route for designing my new enclosure. I basically just want to get the most out of the equipment i already have since this is just a work truck/temp daily driver. I have two Kenwood KFC-W3012 subs and one Kenwood KAC-9104D amp. I'm willing to go all the way across and up to the windshield line. Basically i'm looking on opinions of whether to go sealed or ported and what tuning frequency should i use?