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thepolicerhere

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  1. You will never get rid of the bounce in you trunk lid. If its getting on your nerves to bad then fire foward and seal the box from the trunk. It will be louder and your trunk will not make that sound like its a pos. If you run a lot of power in a trunk you will crack the metal of your trunk, crack the hinges and probably break the latch. If you can stay at a reasonable level then follow the suggestions above. Check out meads civic build for help.
  2. I've had great results with power slot rotors and hawk hps pads.
  3. Wwhat if i have a sealed box? im guessing its just better to face them to the trunk right? I put mine forward and couldn't be happier. No trunk rattle. A lot more impact. Now I just need to fix the cracks in the trunk lid. http://m.youtube.com/profile?gl=CA&client=mv-google&hl=en&user=StreamlineAudioVanc
  4. Well, then you can name it. Oh yeah, coupe and convertible are taken.
  5. I'm running four Rockford Fosgate T 1500 CP's at 1 ohm on two DD 9512 H. I will do a burp at your 44 hz. It will be an Audio Control 3055 with high SPL upgrade and a 180 db mic. Hopefully by 6 or 7 pacific time I will have video. Should be comparable power wise with you 1/4 ohm load and my Constant Power. Nice setup by the way. Are you able to get some songs out there or do they get too hot? I was on mine for almost 40 minutes at .5 ohm on music.
  6. check out my video under 9512 h break in. Inner port moves to adjust tuning frequency..
  7. Kenwood 994

    EPIC 160

    Audio Control DQX

    Rockford T 600 4

    Two Rockford T 1500 CP's

    Two DD 9512 h subs

    Two ID 8" mids

    Two ID 6.5" mids

    Two ID 28 mm tweets

    240 amp alternator

    Stinger SPV 69 battery

    Stinger SPV 70 battery

    Big three

    Street wires distribution block

    Lot's of 1/0

    Lot's of 4

    Lot's of ...

  8. I'd suggest a hundred feet of 1/0 wire. Two hundred feet of 12 gauge wire. An alternator that puts out at least 240 amps and if you can put two or more under the hood that would be best. Two bats per bass amp and one per mid/high amp. Three 15 foot high quality rca's and twelve 6 foot high quality rca's. Then spend the rest of that money on sound deadner. The one thing with car audio is no matter what you got it's gonna sound like shit to you in a week. So set up you're ride to accept what you'll buy in the future. Don't forget the big three, a good multimeter, a RTA, and access to a decent o-scope. You'll end up doing this all when you get the bug anyway.
  9. Goggle the "Wicked One" and parts express. I'm having one built to put two 10 w1v2 jl's in and a 500 watt bash amp.
  10. I'd be checking which employee has a bunch of audio gear on craigslist in the next few weeks.
  11. I think you should change the criteria to the full body trick. No more 10's with the 80's hair trick. She had her hair pulled back and you just started to remove her shirt. That's being a fuckin pimp.s
  12. Really need to know what sub you want to use or are you going to build the box and find a sub that works. This would be the Fs of the sub. Tune high for a loud system. Tune low to rattle your teeth. I've done 25hz to 40hz. Lower is more impressive to me. Plan on things falling of your ride though.
  13. James, please check out my post in subs/enclosures. Need your help. Have money. Thanks.
  14. I've been happy with my Epic 160. It's real nice to see if changes are working. It's pretty close to my RTA on the DB side. You don't like the Epic because you've used one and have had problems with it? Adds a nice rumble to lacking bass tracks.
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