thepolicerhere

You will never get rid of the bounce in you trunk lid. If its getting on your nerves to bad then fire foward and seal the box from the trunk. It will be louder and your trunk will not make that sound like its a pos. If you run a lot of power in a trunk you will crack the metal of your trunk, crack the hinges and probably break the latch. If you can stay at a reasonable level then follow the suggestions above. Check out meads civic build for help.

I've had great results with power slot rotors and hawk hps pads.

Wwhat if i have a sealed box? im guessing its just better to face them to the trunk right? I put mine forward and couldn't be happier. No trunk rattle. A lot more impact. Now I just need to fix the cracks in the trunk lid. http://m.youtube.com/profile?gl=CA&client=mv-google&hl=en&user=StreamlineAudioVanc

Well, then you can name it. Oh yeah, coupe and convertible are taken.

I'm running four Rockford Fosgate T 1500 CP's at 1 ohm on two DD 9512 H. I will do a burp at your 44 hz. It will be an Audio Control 3055 with high SPL upgrade and a 180 db mic. Hopefully by 6 or 7 pacific time I will have video. Should be comparable power wise with you 1/4 ohm load and my Constant Power. Nice setup by the way. Are you able to get some songs out there or do they get too hot? I was on mine for almost 40 minutes at .5 ohm on music.

check out my video under 9512 h break in. Inner port moves to adjust tuning frequency..

I'd suggest a hundred feet of 1/0 wire. Two hundred feet of 12 gauge wire. An alternator that puts out at least 240 amps and if you can put two or more under the hood that would be best. Two bats per bass amp and one per mid/high amp. Three 15 foot high quality rca's and twelve 6 foot high quality rca's. Then spend the rest of that money on sound deadner. The one thing with car audio is no matter what you got it's gonna sound like shit to you in a week. So set up you're ride to accept what you'll buy in the future. Don't forget the big three, a good multimeter, a RTA, and access to a decent o-scope. You'll end up doing this all when you get the bug anyway.

Tech Nine "In The Trunk". Nice up grade.

Goggle the "Wicked One" and parts express. I'm having one built to put two 10 w1v2 jl's in and a 500 watt bash amp.

I'd be checking which employee has a bunch of audio gear on craigslist in the next few weeks.

I think you should change the criteria to the full body trick. No more 10's with the 80's hair trick. She had her hair pulled back and you just started to remove her shirt. That's being a fuckin pimp.s

Really need to know what sub you want to use or are you going to build the box and find a sub that works. This would be the Fs of the sub. Tune high for a loud system. Tune low to rattle your teeth. I've done 25hz to 40hz. Lower is more impressive to me. Plan on things falling of your ride though.

James, please check out my post in subs/enclosures. Need your help. Have money. Thanks.

I've been happy with my Epic 160. It's real nice to see if changes are working. It's pretty close to my RTA on the DB side. You don't like the Epic because you've used one and have had problems with it? Adds a nice rumble to lacking bass tracks.

My bad. Alubum "Back on My B.S." song We Miss you. Lots of bottom end. My all time favorite. Cherry Pie by ICP. Or try some Telarc Fantasy Adventure Album. Lots of sub 15 hz tones to let you know what kind of gear you're running. This is pipe organ so use at high volume at your own risk.

Just take it to an electronics repair shop. It will cost you about $65 for a repair. If it's not major. Hopefully it will just be a little solder job.

If that amp is still getting hot at 4 ohms you should just put it in a five gallon bucket of water. That's just not acceptable. Even for a low end amp.

Don't get discouraged by people talking shit on your gear. Boss set the db level back in the day. Car audio is more know how and less what you spend. I just like having some tunes to cruise around with my old lady and going back to when I was young and didn't give a shit about anything. Keep bumpin. It's all about the enclosure.

Wire the subs to 4 ohms. This will take care of the thermal problem. You will lose a couple of db's. Won't notice. People who say they run at 1 ohm or 1/2 ohm or 1/4 ohm, daily, are full of shit. Maybe for a few minutes. Some amps will do this but they will burn your hands (like my old school 2100 hcca and 225 hcca would do), and cheap amps will burn up if you continue to do it. My power series rockfords will shut off after 10 minutes or so at .9 ohms. I usually listen to my music the whole time im in the car and that might be a little more than 10 minutes. I run my subs at 1.8 ohms. One sub on one amp.

Track 10 on the new Busta Rymes. At about 3:20 in to it goes apeshit. Makes my headlights shake. In the trunk by Tech Nine.