billy101

big 3 is completed. I threw the rcas across the center console directly back to the amps didn't tuck them anywhere. the last thing i am going to try tomorrow is grounding to the bolt behind the radio and seeing if that affects it at all.

Alright well I just went out and spent $40 on two new pairs of RCAs. Ran them both just from the back of the headunit and then to the amps and the same problems are there. Is it possible that I need to do the ground trick thing like pioneers? or is this headunit a lost cause?

I'm running out to my local bestbuy and grabbing their most reasonable priced 25' RCA Cable they've got. I'll buy two. Right now, the only way there is alternator whine is when the RCA is hooked up to the sub amp...which is leading me to believe bad RCAs, so I'm running out now to go grab some.

I swapped the RCAs coming from the front RCA channel to the sub RCA on HU and plugged them from the front amp RCAs to the Sub amp and the same problem occured. I'm thinking either blown RCAs or just simply a bad headunit ground. There's a ground directly behind my headunit I'm going to try an ground there.

Grounds are all solid. Both amps are grounded to the passenger side rear strut tower bolt, grinded down to bare metal, we just had an issue with my car not starting due to a ground issue on the tranny casing...The chassis ground, and engine ground are BRAND new, both ground down to shiny bare metal with new ground wire coming from the battery terminal. My RCAs are run down the center of my car, and the power wires are run along the right side of the car, under the carpet. About 2 1/2 feet apart.

Hi guys, I'd really like your help on what needs to be done here. My system is in my signature, but if any more information is needed, please don't hesitate to ask. Started off with me turning on my car and noticed some major engine whine that was never there before. Okay, weird. I take my dash out and pull the radio out....nothing looks out of the ordinary, I really don't even know what to look for in this case. The only thing I DO know, is that if the RCA's are pulled out of the sub amp, or the sub output on the head unit the engine whine stops completely. The other issue that I am now having is that when the subwoofer amp is on and both Red and White sides of the RCA are plugged in, I'm getting this horrible low frequency noise that makes my sub's bottom out. If only one is plugged in, it will play normally but just not as loud. It doesn't make a difference what side of the RCA is plugged in, just if BOTH are in it will make that tone/hz weird thing. I don't have any headunits to swap out to rule out the headunit being the culprit, but I really hope it's not because it's only 8 months old! I'm not sure if Kenwoods have the pico fuse, or have the same issue as the pioneer units and the fuses. EDIT: Almost forgot to add, here is a quick video showing the issue with the engine whine, but not the low frequency problem as it happens fast and I don't know if I'm damaging anything when it does that so I'd rather not have it do it! http://s1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa429/bmcgee101/?action=view&current=VIDEO0009.mp4 Please help asap, I have work tomorrow at 12 and can't imagine not having bass for that trip!

Just voted, goodluck buddy!

Have you tried taking that battery out of the car, along with the amp and hooking it up directly, to rule out anything else?

cool find, joined it..lets see if its real.

I set my equipment properly. I meant safe as a play on words, not as in me chancing my equipment. Of course with the subsonic set and gain set proper it will be fine. I am wondering if it will sound like money ass. And don't say "try it and see". I'd like some help, I dont plan on changing the port at this point, when it is in done... So 32 ish? My system is my daily driver, and my 2 12's are tuned to 32hz, it hits nasty lows, VERY well, and is pretty darn loud on the higher frequencies. I can't tell a difference between my old box which was tuned to 34ish hz.

You really have nothing to worry about. All those connectors should have little seal rings around them so that moisture and water can't get into them for that exact reason. Everytime I wash my car, I spray down my engine bay. Once a month I spray the motor and everything I can see with Purple Power Degreaser and it does a great job on painted, plastic, and metal surfaces. Make sure your motor is cool before you do it though.

Where are you located, and what is your price range? I have nothing to do tonight and won't mind checking around craigslist for you in your area..

Anytime man, I wish you the best of luck.

Look under the hood and check the trans fluid. Make sure it's not burnt smelling and/or dirty. If it's bright red, that's good. Make sure the transmission hasn't been flushed recently....you should only do a pan drop and re-fill with the 4T65Es. When you test drive it, make sure you listen to the shifts under light/moderate/hard acceleration..make sure it's not slipping or hard shifting. Also bring a mechanic with you, or if you are mechanically inclined and own one...bring a scanner to scan for any codes, preferably one that can read TCM (transmission control module) codes as well.

The only thing I'd be worried about with older 3800 FWD powered vehicles is that they are mated to the 4T65E transmission, and they are usually the weak point of the FWD 3.8L vehicles unless properly maintained. The 3800 motor-maintained, will hit 250k easily. My aunt has a 98 Buick Regal GS with 276k on it, not the original transmission though.

If you're looking at a newer Malibu (2008+) the 4banger imo has NO balls whatsoever, it's a DOG on the highway, barely enough power to pass someone. My mom has a 2010 Malibu LTZ with the 3.6L V6 6-Speed auto...and that thing can haul ass up to 140, EASILY. It's 6speed gives it great power to pass at 65+ highway speeds, and the torque at lower speeds is ridiculous, it will let loose at 40 mph if you mash it. My mom drives 10miles to work 5 days a week, and averages 18mpg city...on the highway it easy makes 28mpg. My 2001 Impala LS w/ 3.8L V6 4speed auto gets about 15-17 city, and 32 easily on the highway. Now, I top swapped my 3800, and did a LOT more work to it, it's now supercharged and I love hearing the whine so I can burn thru a tank of gas in about 120miles city.... If I keep it easy on the highway I can squeeze 30-32 mpg out of it easily. I've never driven a 4 banger worse then the one in the Malibu. Even my dad's 98 subaru outback 4 banger is stronger than the Malibu I4. So, I'm pretty biased to a v6. The only v8 I've driven was a 2010 Challenger SRT8 Hemi, and that thing is insanely fast.

We should definitely set something up, but not for awhile. I recently got into a front end collision with my car. I blacked out at the wheel, still no reason as to what happened but the good thing is that I am alright. The car on the other hand still runs and drives perfect, but looks like shit. I rear ended a F250, lifted with a hitch. I went under the truck pretty much and his hitch did dirty work to my radiator support. My family and I are going on vacation from the 2nd till the 17th, and then we will be fixing my car. I would love to set something up once we get it all fixed. I have my two RE SRX12's in a 3.1cube box on a Infinity Kappa One - 800w @2ohm. It is SO loud now, I absolutely love it. I need to fix some leaks the box has, as well as take the subs out and seal it from the inside out with caulking...I was on a squeeze with time when I first build the box.

9354 lbs

We should get some people together for a meet somewhere in the area. I'm just south of Raleigh in Willow Spring, NC. I'd love to hear some other peoples systems around the area.

Yes, I am in NC. About 20-25 minutes south of Raleigh. Looked up Pulse Audio, it says they're in Salisbury, MD I'm going to give CarQuest a call a little later and see what's up with their NGT Extremes. I can't find prices for XSPower batteries on their website....

I'll probably drive my car to CarQuest and see if it fits before I even leave the parking lot. Thanks for the tip though man! I'll update this thread tomorrow afternoon after I give them a call.

I just ordered all the wiring I'm going to be needing to do the big 3, in all 0 gauge. What is a good XS battery for my application? I've been looking around at batteries and I'm seeing that NGT Extreme batteries are a pretty good bang for the buck, along with Deka Intimidators? Any ideas? I honestly couldn't give you a good opinion, I have never used them. I used Stinger, Shuriken, and then Kinetik before switching to XS. I will never use any other type of battery, EVER. Not a problem. I think I'm going to be calling CarQuest tomorrow afternoon to find out how much their NGT Extreme AGM batteries run. I've seen on google they've been around $90 or so, which isn't too bad for an AGM imo. Any other opinions/information is welcomed!

I just ordered all the wiring I'm going to be needing to do the big 3, in all 0 gauge. What is a good XS battery for my application? I've been looking around at batteries and I'm seeing that NGT Extreme batteries are a pretty good bang for the buck, along with Deka Intimidators? Any ideas?

I was looking at a H/O alt mainly because I'm running 3 HID harnesses along with my system, basically just a precaution. I'd rather have more juice then necessary rather than not have enough...right? Are there certain xs or kinetic batteries that are made specifically for replacing stock batteries?

Sorry to bump it so early, but I really need a response soon as possible...I don't think this battery is going to last much longer..