BboyTaktix

What about the 800w FI sub? 2 of their 12''? Bump for more suggestions

Why not just get 2 lvl 3's? Like I said not looking for 140 or 150db's and nothing too heavy. 130-135db's would be nice though. And I would like good sq too since it's a daily. Plus I am not buying another amp. Rather spend the money going turbo or sc soon.

bump

I have 2 jbl 350RMS subs. I'm looking for an upgrade because I would like more bass for my highs (which are currently outperforming my subs by a good amount). Car is an 09 cobalt FYI. Not looking for 150+db and it is a DAILY DRIVER. nothing insanely heavy. My amp is the clarion dpx11551 (true 1550wRMS). I was looking at 2 jbl W12MK2 subs. Or two 12" DC lvl 3's? Basically just looking for suggestions, not looking to spend over $500-600 on the 2 subs. Keep in mind i'm in Canada, shipping is higher. Also, put reasoning for your suggestions. I appreciate it guys!

I washed mine 3 days ago. I usually wash my ride every 2 weeks or less during the summer. I live in Qc, Canada, and it will be snowing soon. I'll keep wash8ing until it snows and doesn't melt away. At the same time i'll have to rock out them winter steelies :'(

Wow at this post...I'm not even going to bother voting...

Is he joking? I would pay LESS for the shit now that the casing is ruined with palin graffiti...it's not like she's some talented star... I have a jacket signed by all the flyers, back when my cousin played for them...guess I should eBay it for $3,000,000.00 since his is at that price..... Stupid ppl.....

No but I read up on them a short time ago. They've updated quite a but I believe. Basically they're trying to make level ground for RMS ratings for audio equipment, since the way you could rate the amp's RMS voltage varies depending on method. I know this from my engineering courses. Bottom line, you're still better off to go with a CEA rated amp, since true RMS will most likely be closer to real value. That's why I don't go with no-name equipment. Tried it once way back. The '5000watt' amp was finished in less than 3 days. Which reminds me I still have that POS in my basement lol.

Never heard of the brand. Personally, I wouldn't. The equipment's specs aren't rated to CEA compliance and probably aren't accurate RMS ratings. But I'm no expert, don't have experience with this brand.

Lol no unfortunately nothing recent. Been b-boying for about 11 years now though. Dunno if you've heard of crews like illmatic styles and fresh format outta Montreal, Qc, but I usually practice with those guys and a bunch of others here. Good times. I'm sure I'll eventually get some footage of practice and post them up here under off-topic videos.

Cool. Both questions answered. And thx skittles for clarifying.

awesome thx for quick response. BTW low pass is subsonic and crossover is 24-27 correct? sorry for the dumb questions, just trying to get everything straight here...thanks again

I'm saying that if my BOX tuning frequency is about 31Hz (given by torres' calculator), what should my subsonic freq. and crossover freq. be set at? (there is 1 knob for each of these on the amp, and amp is clarion DPX11551) And what about 'bass boost' frequency? If I set my bass boost at 0 then does it matter what the bass boost frequency is at? I'm assuming it doesn't matter. Thank you.

hey guys, I've been searching for a while and can't find the thread/threads that answer my question (i know it's been answered on here somewhere though) I used Torres' calculator to figure out my box tuning frequency for my 2 12's. Now my question is what do I tune my amp to in comparison to the box frequency? The calculator gives me a box tuning frequency of just over 31Hz, if that makes sense. So what frequency to tune my amp at? I'll be DMM'ing my amp tomorrow to the right power for my subs as well. (I don't have an oscilloscope but I wish I did)thanks!

chill. I have a 2009 cobalt and I just lowered on fe-5 suspension (cobalt ss/Tc) shocks/struts and B&G springs. I would suggest eibach pro kit or sportlines, they're more even, and much more stiff than stock suspension, so they will not sag in back, even with added weight i don't think it will be a problem. Get the fe5-s Tc shocks/struts. Handling is greatly improved and again they are stiffer than stock shocks/struts. You can get the springs for around $160-200 on ebay and the shocks/struts from crateenginedepot.com for around $260 or $280 I believe. You won't regret it man!

BASED on, not bassed on. and written not writen lol. sounds like your programming skills are getting to be quite good, but your English could definitely use some help congrats man!

some audio build he can now do...

nice man! can't wait to see the finished product! snap some nice pics of your progress! (with better lighting )

Nice choice! BMW's a great car. And that's a good year. I hope to see some clean custom work in the trunk!!!! Congrats on your first car man! I bought my first 'new' car 9 months ago (2nd car though) it's no BMW, just a base model cobalt, but I love it and the feeling of getting a new car is always fun! Enjoy and can't wait to see the progress!

well here's my issue. MY car comes with a STOCK SEALED battery in the trunk (no battery under the hood). Would it then be safe to get a KINETIK 1400 battery as a second battery to put beside this stock sealed battery? FYI My system is running about 1500-2000RMS right now but i plan to upgrade to about 3000RMS next year(2 JBL W12GTI's to replace my existing JBL 1214D's, and I also have a 600RMS 4channel).

I see, but then why does Kinetik suggest a HC1400 battery to replace the stock battery and a larger HC2000 near the amplifier for my system? if this saying is true then would it not be better to go with, say two HC1400's or slightly larger? if the more experienced audio guys could chime in, I'd appreciate, because I also need to either replace my existing battery, or add a second one and leave the stock battery. Buying two kinetik batteries isn't exactly in my budget. Any help is appreciated!

Another question: as opposed to 0 gauge, would 2 gauge wire from battery to battery then from battery to distribution block be sufficient?(and then the 2 gauge in to distribution block splits into two 4 gauge wire, one to each amp) keep in mind there will be only about 1 foot of wire between battery terminals since my main battery is already in the trunk and the second one will be directly beside it.

nice thread. Will be checking everything this weekend, and also running my RCA's down the center of my car along with the speaker wires, since I want more RCA length anyways. I'm gonna isolate the speaker and RCA wires from the factory wiring as well, see if that helps, and as usual, check all my grounds again (I'll be changing most of the wiring this weekend anyways to finish my custom trunk layout finally, thank GOD!) Really hope I can get rid of the sound!!!

That's beautiful! Love the rims and the color. One of my favorite sedans. Good job man! Looking forward to a 'reasonable' and clean audio layout thread with pics!!!

UPDATE!!! i said 'f*ck it", since the electronics stores around here suck and the people don't know their stuff. I thought about different ideas like running both amp power wires from my cap, which I might do in the meantime, but i just purchased a distr. block off ebay that is 0AWG in to (2) 4AWG out, both fused. It will be good once I get a second battery and ditch the cap (although i might keep the cap not sure yet). hopefully i'll receive the distr. block this week, since my build is going pretty well. My car is currently almost completely gutted, and I am still waiting on a shipment of 100sq.ft. of fatmat so I can install that too. Got the new rear speakers in today and tested them. They sound amazing with the new amp. can't wait to hear the front components as well! Thanks for all the help guys!