hotshot27

its funny you mention the fuse, i had to mess with it before when i had alternator problems. I will try it with a straight link. So far the ECM cutting off the fuel pump seems to be the most likely thing, since the car always starts fine without the system hooked up. the car will start perfect, and about 2-3 seconds after turning over, it will just die unless i give it gas. then i unplug the fuse on the power wire, and it starts fully normal. i have checked my voltage during all of this, and it never drops below 12.2 with the car off and 13.9 with the car on. as a side note, in the mean time, i have been running the amp in my room, powered by a 750 watt PSU. it works like a champ, so its not the amp.

I have had a Ford service dealership take a look at it ($80 an hour for an hour and a half) his conclusion was that the alternator wasnt big enough and it was bogging it down. but he also said he can't be certain because the alt was testing fine for 80+ amps of current draw. The local mechanic i took it to said it had to be something electrical but he couldnt pinpoint it. he didnt charge me since he couldnt find a problem. My alternator was "rebuilt" by a local shop. besides replacing the core, what else on the alt could be bad? EDIT: not in GA, stuck in Oklahoma. Thanks though

I acually had a 1.5 farad cap on it before, the dieing did become more frequent after i took the cap out of the system. But i didnt think the cap was helping that much(atleast with the light dimming). I am running 4ga, about 18-20 feet of it. ground is about 3 ft long. I'm gonna go swith the remote wire to the power antenna (my car doesnt have one, but the wiring is there) and my wiring tested good, used some short 4 ga and it did the same thing.

(here comes the flaming) Factory radio with LOC. and yes it does it with the radio off. Exact same amp and wiring as before. the only difference is i am using less current. if i can get a hold of my friends amp for a few hours, he has a 600 rms that would simulate mine pretty well, i will try it as well. I checked for drain and i was getting about 3-5 milliamps drain, prolly from my alarm. i will also use some scrap wire and use it to make sure the wiring doesnt have a short.

i will check in a few minutes for a short and for the drain on the battery. i dont think it is a drain though because it will restart fine after i disconnect the audio system. and the belt has an automatic tensioner, but i have no clue if those go bad or not. i will mess with it some more today and post my findings later this afternoon. thanks for the help thus far

I have not done big three yet. i'm only drawing about 30 amps of current with the most recent setup (according to a clamp meter) so i dont think current flow is the problem. plus I ran the old system for about 6 months before it started doing this, which makes me think something has gone out or has been damaged. I just dont want to keep replacing random parts if i can locate the real source. I will try big 3 tho, can't hurt. Any other ideas? i have all day tomm to mess with it, just limited on cash to do large fixes.

yep, atleast all the lights go off on the amp. i just tested the remote wire and it gives 13 volts with ignition on, 0 with ignition off.

I have a 2001 Ford Taurus. About a year ago i started having problems with my car starting. it would turn over fine, but then i would have to rev the engine to keep it alive. The battery never died, but the engine would shudder and cut off. Long story short, it was diagnosed to be faulty electrical (by autozone and a local mechanic). Since then i have replaced the alternator and battery, as well as taking out my system (700w rms amp, drawing about 60 amps of current). car has worked fine for the past year. I recently wanted to add a little 8" sub to my stock system, but when i hooked everything up, i had the same problem. If i unplug the fuse in the engine bay, the problem stops. I have tried relocating the ground wire, with same results. I am truly stumped as to what could be causing this. Surely my brand new battery (700cca) and alternator (rated for 105 amps) can handle this small powered system. Any ideas? i can prvide more info if needed, i just dont know what all is relevant to this. Thanks for reading, i just really need help getting a little thump back in the trunk.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zEgy_evuV0o This video isnt a great quality, but everyone can use their own "resources" to listen to it. Fills the room on my 18's setup, havent analyzed it, but i'm guessing between 40 and 50 hz, solid.

i'm sorry, but let me get this right. you intend to power a 300 watt 4 channel amp and a 1600-2000 watt monoblock amp, all off a 145 watt PSU? goodluck. 145 PSU = 145 watts. period. unless you have defied physics and created energy from nothing. I had a 750 watt PSU running a 500watt rms amplifier to 2 8" subs. it just about killed my house. i would run it for an hour a day tops, and after the first month i got rid of it. my electrical bill jumped significantly and my lights that were on the same breaker would flicker with the bass. and this was just 500 watts.

not to try and bust anyones bubble, but do you really expect to get 900 watts rms out of that sony amp? the last time I tested that amp, I had a 14 volt power supply with plenty of current, but the amp would only draw like 40 amps of current, and even then it was putting out a very clipped signal.

just go with CVR's again

the higher end ones are pretty much true watts with good electrical, but avoid the lower power models [same situation as crunch and 3000D and lower crunch models]

no headliner, all fiberglass. or some neo magnets...... looks amazing, They way it all cleaned up was amazing, i would have just thrown the amps in and said just be happy you have them. made me go out and build an amp rack instead of the backs of my seats. Keep up the great work, i even got the guys at best buy drooling over your stuff [and one of them already knew who you were].

i would say it could atleast put out 600-800 watts, just may overheat and shut off if it has a thermal protect. for the price, not just horrible, but for nice subs like bl's, i wouldn't want to skimp on the amps

if you are looking for quick money, i would suggest a CD if you are not exactly sure what you are doing. I am putting my college loan money into a CD and earning more than the interest i'm paying, so it works. But the only way to get really good at it is to watch for a while, then jump in head first. but being smart is the key thing and making yourself happy. [stocks are better for a long term investment, so you will have to ride out the highs and lows]

I've been told sony has gotten better in the last year or so, but i personally still dont trust them. so i guess he can pick whichever one he/she wants, both are better than the visonik.

I know, but its 100X better than the visonik and still close to the price range.

depends on the shop. some of my local shops charge out the ass for their own kits. some charge extra if you dont buy theirs. others are tight and dont care and have some reasonably priced wiring. just be sure its 4 ga and nothing smaller .[the bigger the number the smaller the wire. ie 4 ga is bigger than 8 ga.]

this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5385_K...2+ohms+x+2.html plus this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9582_P...EACT1-1800.html plus http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_52_Com...lifier+Kit.html is 100000x better than that visonik. its a little bit more, but you will be so much happier trust me

HAHAHAHAHA sorry. you could have 20 of those visonik packages and it wouldn't touch that Fi. sorry, i had that same setup and buying visonik is like buying a smoke bomb that like to get so hot you can cook an egg on it. if you want to add a little bass, and i mean little, go for it. but don't think it will sound anything like that video

WTF theres a chance the ground wire was touching the remote wire judging from that video. i would rack this one up to an equipment fail due to install/improper usage. end of story.

on my headphones it sounds weird, but there's no way in hell i'm playing that on my subs

i'm hoping thats 70 amps at idle, not max. with the ^^^^described electrical and running the same amp with car ON i wouldn't see any problem. and invest in a voltage meter, they can be had for 20 bucks and obviously could have saved this amp. live and learn

that power acoustik would have been pretty decent for those subs. at 1 ohm it would have put out 800 rms atleast. and that stock alt will be ok, just be smart and dont run it with the car off