tonedeaf

Id get biggest alt you can fit comfortably (no need for a 350 or anything stupid yet) and biggest XS or kinetic you can fit under the hood. Then a D3100 in the back. Theres no such thing as overkill on the electrical imo, just way underkill. Also having the biggest you can fit now leaves room for upgrades later without having to sell the smaller alt for a bigger one for example.

Woody, kinetic has the 12v post, not xs. With xs batteries, you'd had to run step-downs. Here's the issue though, the higher you go up in voltage (from 14 to 18v I.e.) the less capacity batteries will have. Like the xs d3109 is good for around 5k watts of power, whereas I believe their 16v d1600 is only around 2500. One alt is the limiting factor and the more and more power you add the more batteries you will need. Remember, although you're charging at around 18.8v, 3 or 4 volts of drop is still just as bad as 3 or 4 volts of drop at 12.

So I'm looking at local providers for Internet in my area and it seems all there is are charter, direct tv, and at&t (maybe verizon?). I'm torn on what to get. I'm willing to pay the $50 a month for a high speed Internet (I think it's $54.99 for charter's 25mbps package) but am torn on the providers and cable bs dsl. The consensus seems to be cable > dsl in speed, but what about the fact that cable "shares" your Internet with your neighborhood? I'm wanting opinions on what would be my fastest and easiest option without breaking the bank. (like the difference between at&ts dsl vs uverse?) Thanks gais.

Why do people insist on categorizing sa series subs in with other subs that should be categorized with sa nightshades? Exactly. The sa series is a starter series for a reason. People just dont seem to understand that.

2 D3400s will be > 1 D3100. Simply more of a reserve. Althogh two D3100s = .

Id give more input, but ive never paid under $500 for a 4 channel because I like mah quality and big powa.

Even an aq4x90 is like $300 new. The 175.4 puts out over twice that power...how is that steep at $380 for an amp that is brand new?

Wait, raidmax ps? Get rid of that thing, I myself have ne'er had good luck with them and have had two blow on me. Get the corsair 1200, you won't regret it.

Not bad at all...my only bicker about building computers is that 4 or 6 core processor you use now is going to be old news in a year. Watercool that bish and it's time to overclock it like a mother. Those 580s run hot as fuck.

Maybe for getting loud. Amazing sounding speakers and such still heavily depends on the equipment themselves, although tuning can still play a big role. But theres a reason noones winning SQ comps with $100 coaxial sets...

You can't show pics like that without more info.

Probably using a bass knob with the RF? RF bass knobs are bass boost. They blow.

Yellow for sure.

How many threads are you going to make today? Jesus Christ...a google once in a while isn't hard seriously. The12volt.com wiring diagram will solve a bunch of headaches with wiring if you can't figure it out. I understand being a rookie, but asking for all the info handed to you is not the way to go.

And 1ohm for highs = shitty. Lower than 4 ohm ftfl.

I wipe my own ass.

Hoping to get in on it if my dealer will pm me back.

Anyone know the real world RNA of these? I'm sure these are well underrated...they 18v stable too?

Remember this tests at a reactive ohm load. The lowest it would need to go is .5ohm for the few amps that are 1/2 ohm stable. The amp is having to create the power for the dyno to test it and if you were to test a 1 ohm stable amp at .25 it would most likely protect or you could risk blowing the amp. How is the amp making the power per say if it can be used in a car setup? I would assume everything would be hooked up like usual, and the car would be powering the amps like usual. Only problem I see with it is theres no box rise to test. So that leads to my question for D and Steve: Is there a way you guys (you may have already thought of it) can make this just like a clamp setup so you can see real world with box rise what power you're getting in your setup? Somehow with either some kind of clamp or RCA Y cable, know what im getting at? Im not sure if I missed something, but it seems at its current prototype state that all it can do is measure the 'max' you can get out of these amps in a perfect world with no rise. I guess unless you knew what your rise is, you could just set that ohm rating, but it seems that would be counterproductive seeing as you would then need to clamp your setup like you normally would without this amazing device. I know its in the building block stages, just wanted to put that out there and see what you can give back. All I know is I will have one at some point whatever the cost as its still cool as shit. P.S. Whatever happened to the d'Amore LED DB guages like from the T15k? From watching the video it looks like they will be able to set the dyno to test at different ohm loads. If you were to send in your amp to be tested and it was tested at reactive ohm loads of 1,2,4,6,and 8 ohms you would then know what real world power you can expect from your amp. testing at each ohm load essentially does factor in box rise since it would be showing how much power you would be getting at those higher loads. Now just clamp your amp in your setup and see how much real world power you are getting and see if your numbers line up with the numbers of the dyno. Touche...havent had any sleep so I blame that on why I didnt think about that. I was thinking oh well my rise is 1.38 ohms or something weird, how am I to know what power im putting out? Some math will tell you that if you have dyno results at, like you said, 1,2,4,6, and 8 ohms. I just think if it was possible to implement something like that, it would be nice for it to simply go BOOM, THIS IS WHAT YOU HAVE without having to set the ohms and all that, it just does it for you. Though this isnt necessarily a clamping machine; I would deem it more like a dyno like for vehicles (hence the name derp ) . This would for sure be cool to clarify 'Hey, does my amp do rated?' 'You seen the AD-1? Not even close to rated dude.'. Im probably getting farther away from what the amp is meant for, just to test your amp for true juice. Just making sure it isnt for more than I was understanding I guess.

Remember this tests at a reactive ohm load. The lowest it would need to go is .5ohm for the few amps that are 1/2 ohm stable. The amp is having to create the power for the dyno to test it and if you were to test a 1 ohm stable amp at .25 it would most likely protect or you could risk blowing the amp. How is the amp making the power per say if it can be used in a car setup? I would assume everything would be hooked up like usual, and the car would be powering the amps like usual. Only problem I see with it is theres no box rise to test. So that leads to my question for D and Steve: Is there a way you guys (you may have already thought of it) can make this just like a clamp setup so you can see real world with box rise what power you're getting in your setup? Somehow with either some kind of clamp or RCA Y cable, know what im getting at? Im not sure if I missed something, but it seems at its current prototype state that all it can do is measure the 'max' you can get out of these amps in a perfect world with no rise. I guess unless you knew what your rise is, you could just set that ohm rating, but it seems that would be counterproductive seeing as you would then need to clamp your setup like you normally would without this amazing device. I know its in the building block stages, just wanted to put that out there and see what you can give back. All I know is I will have one at some point whatever the cost as its still cool as shit. P.S. Whatever happened to the d'Amore LED DB guages like from the T15k?

Well rehooked up the RF like ray said and no beans. Tried 3 different ipods just to make sure and no sounds from the 4 different working speakers I hooked up to it. So fried amp means time for moar power I guess. Just wish I knew how to take this thing apart to see if anything is blown or i its just an RCA thing.

yes sir. Ill hook it all back up in just a bit. So my RF hooked up to the battery and just jump the remote from power wire, ipod hooked into amp for signal, and lil 6" on the RF, am I correct?

Yeah I do, although I dont think the sub would be the issue as the terminals are reading fine and I never smelt coil or heard a pop. But if you think that might be it I can hook it all back up to try a 6". Note the highs amp on my spare 6" worked fine on a different preout.

Sorry, I said Headunit plug, I meant headphone (3.5mm headphone plug into iphone) with RCA plugs. Heres a pic of what I used basically: Plugged it into iphone then straight to amp with nothing happening from the sub.

That's the last thing I did which I figured would rule it out. I plugged the headphone plug into my iPod and the RCA outs into the amp and it no worky. So case closed ray?