Chris D

I don't know if anyone is interested in this, but over at the ED website, they posted a video showing mechanical vs. thermal limits of a speaker. It also shows how to find the tuning of your box if you forgot and don't want to take measurments. http://blog.edesignaudio.com/?p=244

If you don't know how to design a box, but can build one, hit up amatt in his thread and he can design you one. Just give him your max dimensions, what subs you want to use and what you want it tuned to.

I mean If I had the money right now, I would definitely take it, but being a broke college student doesn't help.

You could get way more than $200 for that. Specialized is a well known brand. I mean if you want to sell it that, its up to you, but you could probably get a good $800-$1000 for it. It looks real clean, no dents or anything that I see, Check out www.pinkbike.com, they have a for sale forum over there and I'm sure you sell it real quick oover there for the $200, even $500 it would go quick.

What he is talking about is the bass level on the headunit. If you lower the bass level it lowers it for all outputs, i.e. subs, mids, and highs. It has Three RCA preouts, for front, rear and sub. He was wondering if there was a way to lower the bass to just the front and rear speakers and not the sub. I'm assuming that he is running the front and rear speakers off the headunit and the subs off of the amp. But I have the same headunit and have no idea.

Any dog that comes around a base or camp and starts hanging around all the time over there gets killed. It is the military "policy". There was a story in a reader's digest( bathroom material) about a soldier who spent $3500 to get a dog shipped to the U.S. just so it wouldn't get killed.

Also check out Newton Faulkner-Hand built by Robots, He sounds alot like Jack Johnson

Pineapple Express

This was pretty unexpected. I may not like the way he acted or his personality, but he definitely left his mark in the hot rodding world. Here is a link from autoblog about it.

I thought he was hilarious. I'm still watching it. "he had a click in his name" hahaha

Look into some home theater forums. like AVSforum.com and HTguide.com. They have a lot of people who build DIY speakers and subs there, so that may help.

If its atleast a 2005, crutchfield has one for $19.99. http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Ite...202&tp=1068

judging by your port length that you got, that would give you around a 46 hz tuning frequency. For 34 Hz I got just about 29, then for end correction you would need to add 3.25 inches to the end, because of the 90 degree angle, so around 32.25 inches long. But I may be wrong on that.

I believe the MTX jackhammer

Here is a forum dedicated to headphones and portable audio. You should look around there before you buy any "bose" headphones.

Ok, it is fixed now.

Parts express will soon carry audiopulse subs. Here is where I found the information

ok, then what are the maximum dimensions that you want to take up in your vehicle, length width and height, for the box.

sketchup works fine for me and i have vista home premium. No problems at all.

Alot of people use the soundsplinter subs for home audio. But the only thing with the sounsplinter subs, are that they are expensive. And the RLP will handle way more than 1000 watts RMS. But they require a huge amount of airspace, and they can also hit the low notes really well.

Also taking vitamins help. What helped me was drinking lots of wter ad eating healthier, meaning not many fatty foods.

Okay, this is going to be somewhat long, but here i go: I have a 1998 Oldsmobile Cutlass. It has the 3.1 V6 automatic trans. Last summer me and my dad rebuilt the motor becasue one of the headgaskets blew and coolant got in the oil and damaged a lot of the components. We took our time and the car sat for about 4-6 months. After we got it running again, The ABS system was making a clicking noise as soon as the engine would start. It would click a few times and then the brake light and ABS light would light up on the gauge cluster. Then, about 6 weeks ago I was driving to school and when i stopped in traffic after getting off the highway, the engine died. I turned the key and the car started right up. It died a couple more times before I made it to the parking garage but it would start up right away after it died. Well later on, when the ABS system would click, It would pull enough power it would kill the engine. So we disconnected the ABS system and it ran fine, until the engine would heat up to the temperature the fans would come on at, and it would die like before, but it would start right back up. Also, if we would turn the AC on it would come onm and then kill the engine. We have checked all of the vaccum lines and connections. I have a haynes manual on my car, and i was doing a test to see a sensor on the throttle body was working properly or not. It said to take a voltage meter and put the positive lead on the voltage supply and the negative lead on the ground on the plug going to the sensor. It said it should read 5 volts when you turn the key to the ON position. When I tested it it read 10.5 volts. So the book said to have the PCM checked by a dealer. we went ahead and ordered a new PCM installed it and had it reprogrammed. The car ran a lot better but the ABS system was still malfunctioning. And the AC would still kill the engine. ANd that same sensor was still receiving 10.5 volts rather than 5. DOES ANYONE KNOw WHAT IS WRONG WITH MY CAR? Everything we have tried does nothing for it. I myself am fairly knowledgeable of cars and so is my dad. I dad also has a friend that has repaired cars out of his garage his entire life and workes at an auto parts store, so he has seen alot and this stumps him. Any help would be appreciated. Oh, and sorry for the long first post na the car now has almost 210,000 miles on it, the engine was rebuilt around 202,000 miles.