BIG-SEXY AUDIO

All you really need since you're on a budget is a 2 channel amp, by hooking two 4 ohm speakers to one channel you'll be at 2 ohms, so look for a amp that will give you around 200 RMS per channel @ 2ohms. Or a T4004 would be perfect for each speaker on it's own channel, that way you could keep a front and back channel, diff ranges.

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1999 GMC Yukon - tone peak around low 30's, 31-30, that's always been around my metering tones.

I got pictures coming, give me a few

HAHA great entertainment!!!!

Aight here's how and why. Subs need to down fire (it reduces noise and makes more sound waves near the floor, for metering at the kick panels) / Port needs to face rear ( it increase the deepness of the subs by firing in the big open area (the trunk) because if the subs down fire the port never needs to be on the back wall, it makes the box lose most of it's compression) / the cut through in the middle will allow the air like you said to move from the trunk to the cabin. The port direction does effect doesn't matter to much because your trunk can be viewed as a box when the air is compressed it's going to find the way out.

My advice keep the 6x9's, upgrade them too of course, cut the middle section on the 6x9 board out fix up the edges, if your looking for maxium air flow. But if you did that I'd up fire them. It'd be almost like a cut-through on a truck. Same principle. Hell Yeah I'd go with that. But yeah the 6x9's are usally the loudest speakers in those cars.

Steve hear me out on this one. The camera starts meade's going down a high traffic walking street, you turn it on up near half you begin to turn a few heads, go on down the road, people to come are already looking, then..............................Crack That Bitch To 100%. And tape the shock. How does the fans feel about that one?

I'm mister Jeffery Houston Thompson, founder of BIG-SEXY AUDIO. I'm a extreme bass head but I'm avised on the mids and highs. Want clean and clear ask me. Also extreme box building, which is what got me known. Two 15's @ 150.2 on 2006 TL / One 12" L5 @ 141.3 on 2006 TL. Goal for next year 158 flat, so stay tuned, HAHA stay Tuned, Audio Joke Sorry. But I'm here if you need me.

Well was nice, until the engine found a new place to rest..... the passenger seat. Very sad day for all of those, no worries everyone lived. Andrew I need to know how many sets your putting in their, cause I've got to work with your ohms and power ratings buddy.

Alpine comps!!! with RF T model amps!!! As clear as the mountain air. Apline tend to have great Freq range and a wide range carry. Put it this way, my Yukon <--- picture to your left, I can roll up the windows, get out, close the door and still have the music loud and clear. A+ in my book!

Apline Type R's. Lower Price and amazing sound. Apline is all I run.

No clue on that one cause I've never done it, so adviceless there. Two 12" FI Q, but you're going to need an amp upgrade. You could go with a lower class FI sub, but better is well better.

Damn sure don't, It was built for my roomate's Honda, we got into a fight, I moved out, two months later his gurlfriend total the beauiful car. But I post some pics of the car tough. Help yourself. 100_1441.jpg_thumb 100_1442.jpg_thumb 100b1391.jpg_thumb 100b1430.jpg_thumb

Missed a few details there, #1 downfiring with rear facing port (helps keep the vibrating down / #2 standard way 2 two 12" back firing port facing back also (just vibrating to much, sounds nasty) / #3 6 order bandpass (has to be all custom built). My advice if you take it is #1, clean deep tight bass, still with the abailty* to move air.

My bad, I thought we were talking about a hatch. K you got a few choices. I've built two RF systems in two different Honda's. And to tell you the truth the cleanest sound you're going to get in a Coupe is downfiring. It's does hurt the loudness at all. I downfired two 12" P3 with a T1000bd in a 3.5 total, with a 3in port tuned @ 38 Hz (the lowest I could tune it). It sounded amazing. The whole back glass flexed nearly an inch, amazely it never blew out. 1253 RMS got him a 144.2 on the dash @ 42 Hz. Not bad for being in the damn trunk!!!

I agree, you'd be suprised what a 12" setup will do in that small of a car. Design wise I'd built the port faced the back and the surface area of the sub pushing up, more air movement but you're still keeping your deepness through the back wall of the car.

Hey I got to tell you, I've always been a fan of the unfinished look anyways, perfect example, all the wires are cleaning put away but still viewable. Box plain wood. I love the port cut out, always nice to see a first in the audio biz.

Buy one 15" FI Q, built the box 1 cude over the rem. space, but don't go over 18" deep in that car setup. Tune the box to 35 Hz which is somewhat near the car's low Freq. a one sub system will always sound cleaner than a multi sub setup, no worries with timeing

Meade what we planned on putting in here exactly cause 15Kw, Holy Hell. There not much room once that thing is in the car. Like a damn cubed tailgate. At least give your boy a damn hint!

I'm just ready to play the shit, so many people are talking about it, I mean the game had a whole week show on MTV. It's denfinly got to worth something.

I'm hearing you there, I'm going to need to do sumthing to the back windows in the Yukon with the new system coming, I what I think I'm going to do is reinforce the windows with bolts, cause the old GMC have the popin's so sumthing will need to be done there. I think dynamat would work a little better on higher Hz, but not to much can be done with the lows.