rickyfromthe407

x123456789!!! x2 I know. It does the job... But I like how you worded tht kmam311 "shit with shit" lol :/ sadly its true.

Yeah.. I know.. Wasn't looking for new. Lol. Just figured I would post to see if I can find anything. Worth a shot.

Hmmm. LOL.. I might think about it... Doesn;t seem like itll do much better than the Power Acoustik OVN1-5500D that I got...

Well...i got the ad here. and I am looking on craigslist...like I said, for something atleast a TAD bit better than the Power Acoustik that i got now.

I know..lol. I should be able to get something atleast a little better than my Power Acoustik OVN1-5500D it isnt the best amp...but it is cheap. But i am looking for something little bit better if I can. If not, ill just keep this one..

Not doing a huge build...I should be able to get something semi-decent with $175 i would assume. Course not gonna be anything great. But I am not looking to enter SOTM.

Yes, I know...Good luck finding quality with 175. But im up for the challenge. Looking for any amps that will do atleast 2k watts at 2 ohm or 1/2 ohm Sundown, Kicker, DC, AQ w/e is good... $175 limit shipped PayPal. Whatcha guys got? EDIT: needs to have atleast 1/0 power and ground.

What are you looking to pay. I got one. But am across the US in Florida...

What are you looking to pay for it? I got one. EDIT: just kidding. get your post count up and come back later. Read the rules man.

He just put it in the quote.. Its called Torres Box Calculator for Windows based computers.

Votes ?

It doesn't REALLY matter, its personal preference IMO I would rather have it in the trunk, with the hidden wire running all the way to the trunk. But instead of getting crimpers or something similar for crimping the wire together to extend it, I would just buy a new 8ft piece of 1/0. Cleaner IMO. But on the floorboard without some other ideas you aren't gonna get as clean of an install, and your gonna have at least 2 wires running to the battery on the floorboard, one to connect in parallel to the batt in front, and the other to go to your amp.. Also, your gonna have a ground wire, which would be easier to find a better ground if you had it in the trunk. Either way your gonna get the same results...I mean the shorter the 1/0 from your amp to your battery is gonna give you a TAD better results, but that short of distance probably wouldn't noticably phase it. So it would be hard to get a clean install just setting it on the floor...but its doable.

Hit up RAM-DESIGNS.com or 412CVX on the forums. I am sure there are a few others though. But 412 designed mine. And if you look on youtube RAM-DESIGNS does some badass boxes.

Holy hell..the fact that you can buy an Ak47 online... Damn... But I like to stick to my .47mm in one hand and my .357 in the other.

Could be a number of things...Check all coils. I would agree thinking that it would be the amp over the subs. Especially in 100 degree weather. I live in Fl and it gets hot as all hell here. Hot to the point where my amp would go into protect if I didn't park under shade. Check your coils..

Bump! Vote for Slot Port or Aero ports for my next build 4 Memphis M3 10"s. I will make both designs clean. But would like to know what kind of port you guys would think sound best and get best performance. So as I stated previously, first choice to 10 votes is what I will be building in the next month. I voted for slot ported so mine doesn't count. 3 - 3 tied up! get them votes in guys! Promise there will be a good build log. And to tonedeaf - stay tuned I might hit you up for a box design once I decide. We have close to the same car - so I am for sure tuned into that beast DC Level 5 build!

I must be doing something wrong It usually gives a good strong hold the first couple of times and gradually gets weaker. I also use pan head screws to hold the subs in place. But after I remove the subs a few times the holes seem to get much weaker.

Damnn! Too bad I am on the other side of the US. I do have a house in northridge though....but damn your northern cali and tickets out there are 7-800.... This sounds like a great idea...But it is gonna take a lot of funding.

That's pretty much what I use #10 panheads length depending on the MDF thickness. But the question is what about when you remove the subs? You can't just drill a #10 back in there because since it's practically sawdust if your lucky you'll get a tight hold. Which is why a metal ( or hurricane nut ) would come in handy. From what I cam gather the hurricane nuts are easier to use and you get just about the same strength. Mind you that I am not doing a wall holdin an 80+ lb sub. I'm Doing 25lb subs upfiring. But I was really just asking questions to learn a little more..incase someone were to ask me I could pass on the knowledge. But thanks everyone for the input. I did learn a bit! He'll didn't know these existed before I posted

just flush mount them and drill into the wood and call it a day! Honestly that's most likely what I am gonna do. With the baffle being 1.5" I will flush mount it 3/4 down so it will have 3/4 lip anyways. They will be up firing as well. I am not worried about them flying out. Unless maybe I were to flip the car..pray to god that don't happen. Smh. But this box will only be used for like a month or so. So the 3/4" flush mount should be fine for it. Fack it.

Lmfao.. Fack. I am just gonna buy both and test em - on a differed box if course. See which one does best.

Ah damn! Very good. I have a few things to do, then I planned to run up to Lowes to grab some MDF for a box build - just to change my setup a bit - make it 4 upfiring instead of 2 cabin facing and 2 angled facing the trunk ( I think I might be getting a bit of cancelation even though each sub has its own chamber. But I dont have a TermLab to test with, so I am hoping I can gain a little bit of noticable difference between 4 upfiring. We will see. But I am not gonna use the T-Nuts just gonna flush mount it and screw em into the MDF since this box is only gonna be used maybe a month 2 months max... & with upfiring, flush mounted im not worried about them ripping out as someone stated earlier if I slammed on the brakes.. Had that happen one time in my buddies car with his subs had the back seats dropped and he ripped the e-brake so he didnt hit a car who slammed on his brakes ( why he ripped the e instead of just hitting his brakes idk ) but either way worked, anyways, one sub ripped flat out, the other ripped out like the top 3 screws. Anyways, i am off to build.. I might take a few pics. But it isnt nothing fancy. So who knows. We will see. Ill get on in a bit to check my other Poll for the ported box build I plan to do for these subs..

Very clean! I like them. Is that the T-Nuts or Hurricane ones? On a side note: Damn - got just about every tool one could imagine, except a jasper jig! But got a few routers... Gotta pick me up something like that, making them myself works...but I imagine not as good. Mine never look as clean.

Gets pricey quick at 5$ per 8. Just out of curiosity though, why choose the T-Nuts over the Hurricane nuts? I read lots of reviews, and most say the Hurricane nuts are more efficient, easier to install, and hold in place better. Also, looking on Parts Express - They got packs of 50 for like $6 For both the T-Nuts and Hurricane Nuts - it gets pricey when you buy those "packs" that come with screws. When I could just run up to lowes and pick up a pack of 50 1/4-20 screws for another 3-5$.. I think I will order both the T-Nuts and Hurricane Nuts 50pcs each. ill get the 1/4" and when I run up to lowes ( probably in the next few hours when they open ) gotta pick up some MDF for a box build anyways, ill get around 100 for when they get here.. Once again, Im a cheap bastard But my original question - why choose the T-Nuts over Hurricane Nuts?

Since I am cheap as all hell... I am sure I could find some good screws for these. http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchResults.cfm?srchExt=CAT&srchCat=829 Would these be the same thing? Also, what about Hurricane nuts? Same thing just without spikes? Hows you guys experience with those? Reading reviews on parts express many people say they prefer the Hurricane nuts over the T-Nuts And 50pcs for 4$ cant beat it! The speaker mounting kits get quite pricey...for my cheap ass