audiofanaticz

NICE!!

That would be Juan, notice his Palmolive soft dish washing hands lol ROFLMAO! I like the Palmolive orange stuff myself, but I hate doing the dishes. but it smells soooooo good!

Im currently using the HLC-2 with a factory bose setup in my cadillac. Im running it off the subwoofer channel (stock bose 12inch is removed). So far I have no issues. Previously I tried using a Scosche SLC4 unit and could not get a clean signal out of the loc at all without out constant distortion, so I returned it to walmart. Once the units are shipping, Id see it being a good investment. Unless you buy a processor, but your talking more money there.

as stated, to have a reactive ohm load of .35 ohms, your amps would have to be wired of a nominal load so low its not even funny...... No one in their right mind would talk about wiring an amp at 0ohms, let alone chances are even if you wired at 0ohms chances are your reactive load would be much higher than .35ohms. Again, when people say they want to wire their amps at .35 ohms, or .5 ohms, or .75 ohms they are talking about a NOMINAL load, not a REACTIVE load....

The poster asking the question Im sure has no idea on impedance rise. Most people dont, they think if they wire their amp at 1 ohm, its playing 1 ohm, when its not actually playing at 1 ohm but much higher. So 9 times out of 10, if a person ask what kind of power will they see if they wire the amp at .5 ohms or .35 ohms, they are talking a nominal impedance, not even knowing what impedance rise or a reactive load is.... Either way, just because 1 person pulls XXXX watts form an amp, it doesnt mean another person wired at the same nominal impedance will get the same XXXX watts, due to that impedance rise being different.. This guy just wants to know the potential power he could get from his amp if its wired at a .35ohm nominal load. Not a .35 reactive load like you continue to think... I know all about impedance rise, some others due to, but like I said the majority of people have no idea, nor can they understand basic ohms law, and some cant even figure out how to wire up a dual voice coil woofer correctly.

Go back and re read the last sentence of my post. I say nothing about wiring at .35 nominal. I run my own amps under 1 ohm and know they down protect or blow. If you see .35 ohm reactive at the amp I know that the 7.5k wont stay on this low. Mine would protect at .93 ohms. Oh and the "lesson" was not about what causes magic smoke, it was about nominal and reactive ohm loads. I hate being asked "well how much power will it put out at .5 ohm" The answer to that is 0. Just because you are wired to .5 ohm doesnt mean a whole lot until signal is applied. Some boxes may be too efficient and not have much rise around tuning at all and the amp will protect from too low of an ohm load. As he tries to dig himself out from under the carpet.... Just about everyone that talks about wiring their amps under stated stable ohm load is talking about wiring the amps at a nominal impedance, not a reactive impedance. Farther more, you cant really go and say I want to run my amp and .35 ohms reactive, or .5 ohms reactive, or any reactive impedance, since there is no way to calculate impedance rise prior to the install. The only way you will find that out is after testing your gear... Sure there are ways to get a general idea, but that idea will not be anywhere near correct, and just an idea on how the box will do, let alone the vehicles characteristics will change that impedance rise drastically.... Another thing is you should never count on or factor in impedance rise to assume it is safe to play music at such a low nominal impedance, let alone reactive. Just to add to the rest, to have a reactive load of .35ohms you would have to wire that amplifier so damn low its not even funny, most people would never even think of doing that let alone trying it. You would pratically have to dead short the amp in order to do it. We wired my pair of 4500s strapped at .35 already in my buddies CRX which is 0.175ohms per amp, and they turned on and worked, and did a 157.6+db with the car off, termlab on the dash, and a certified score. This was done with the vehicle off and 1 NSB 90 battery. The amps did kick protect 1 click higher than posting said score, but I think any amp would at said impedance and voltage dropping to a nice low 8volts. However with countless burps during testing and db drag regionals the amps took it fine and still continue to work without any magic smoke coming out. The point of this last part was with the amps almost at a dead short (0.175ohms each), they where still rising to .67ohms each or reactive as you say, just proving the point that if a person meant that they want to wire their amps at .35reactive, you would have to wire the amps at a negative impedance damn near to get such a low impedance rise. AKA You got caught up slipping, and are now trying to play it off like we misread what you typed...

First off let me start with this. If you run any DC amp below 1 ohm, you WILL void your warranty. Now lets get to the lesson. Moral of the story is, if you dont have a reactive ohm load of 1 ohm, the amp will protect and it will put out 0 watts. So you still want to know how much power the 7.5k will put out, 7500w at 1 ohm reactive and 12v. If you see .35 ohm reactive at the amp, then you probably just cost yourself $1000 repair bill because your amp is gonna go boom. I'll second this.. My Sundown SAZ-4500s run at .35 each, and did it daily for about 2 years (until I gutted my hoe to start the rebuild that I havent started yet), and my amps did it on only 2 XS Power D3100s and 3 alternators (1 of which was the stock 105amp alternator) and voltage dropping to high 10volts - low 11volts full tilt on music. Now if you claim "DC Amps cant work under 1ohm or they instantly go to protect and make 0watts" as you said than I guess the only thing left to say is Sundown Audio >>> DC Audio, even tho they are made in the same factory Sundown parts must be way better!!! Trollolololing aside, I'm sure you just said it so that you prevent the potential customer that does not understand or know the risks and the steps to take when running so low so he would not go ahead and try doing it. However that's an awfully sad way to help teach a person that may not know as much as another person, and hell could even prevent him from choosing the brand you represent due to it. But damn Still cant believe that's what you said, I'm just in shock!

very nice! I know you got that car packed full with a bunch of goodies, but I really didnt think it was that much audios in there. You got her packed up pretty damn nice!!

if this is not a pointless topic, i dont know what is..

clean

Topic is locked since its not in the correct forum. XS Power does not make alternators. If you have a question about alternators post it in the alternator section of the forum. If you have a question about mechman alternators than post your question in the mechman section. To the user who tried to sell an alternator in this thread, his post is deleted due to him only having 56posts and is illegal for him to sell here until he has 150posts. Its hard to tell who is a good or bad seller, chances are its hard to trust a person that is new to the site with a low post count, not always the best idea to deal with people that cant follow simple rules about selling items or even post their items for sale correctly. Thread is locked, thanks for your understanding!! -Brian

nice looking alt! bet its a pain on the F to change out tho not no hoe making it easy being right up on top. lol

Pretty sure they mean as an auto sensing remote turn on to turn on the amplifier(s). Im not seeing one on mine, but there is a remote wire however Im not sure if its for the turnon of the LOC or the turn on of the amp. Its been raining all day and it was my goal to mess with it today/tomorrow

Those look dope! Are you using a similar PCB still, must say those 2 boards you sent me are extremly thick and heavy for a voltage meter! They kind of remind me of a poker chip weight wise but square. Not those plastic ones, but the casino style chips.

x2 welcome aboard! Chooo Chooo

LOL i need to try that!

Looks sexy! I need one because this POS scosche is a distorted pos! ^^^FTL!

Thats odd, DelRayCustoms here on the forums said they didnt, unless you stream via bluetooth on the pioneer units.

the question is, will those adapters work? Since currently theres like 2 headunits that will work with the iphone 5, the radio market will catch on sometime mid 2013 (so if you use your iphone for a ipod in your ride, you might want to hang on to your 4s). A lot of it is to due with the new plug being a digital out unlike the old plugs, not sure if that adapter will fix these issues or not. However most radios will allow you to stream music via blue tooth. DelRayCustoms has done a few videos about it already, and one of the newest Alpines works with the iphone 5 (pretty sure its the alpine doubledin with the 8inch screen).

Data bandwidth is not free, Just like you pay $30-50 per month for your data package on your smartphones (iphone, androids, blackberrys) and if you go over your 5gb limit or whatever it is, your cell company charges you highway robbery for every MB of data over usually. Typically for a website, your rent a server from a hosting company, this is where your site is hosted at (often times many other sites run off the same physical box as your website). Im pretty sure Steve has his own server now that is dedicated just to his site, and no other sites are ran from it. I know he posted previously from just geting his own dedicated server and going from 4gigs of ram to 8gigs of ram it costed an additional $75 per month on top of what he is already paying. This site is a easy 300-400 bucks if not more to run each month. and the data being sent to and from is over 500gigs a month which is fairly a lot considering this site is not dealing with no downloading of music, videos, movies etc. Your only allowed so much space monthly of data being sent to your server, and returned from your server (usually once your close to meeting or exceed that cap they send you an alert and could turn your server off). Not to mention thats not including the actual cost of the domain name you buy, the web design work that Kyle does which is countless hours and hours. a lot of costs that add up fast. Us mods dont get paid for being here, take that back we do, we get the power of the ban hammer But really we are just here to help out others, and make sure things are going smooth, and fix some problems that occur. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/113714-server-upgrade-last-night-8-gigs/page__hl__%20server%20%20upgrade theres countless other threads about upgrades and such too. Just noticed your in New Zealand, so generally your going to have a slighter slower latency connecting to a usa server That card looks a bit nicer, little more expensive, but it is a faster card than your current card. Id deffently check out reviews on it and such on various sites before you buy. Also the technicolor tg582n router your using is a wireless N, where as the netgear you have is a wireless g, so overall the technicolor is going to be faster. Another thing you can try is if all computers on your wireless network are using wireless N cards, or if yours is the only computer on the wireless network you can go into your routers admin panel, and usually there is a setting to disable the broadcasting of 802.11b and 802.11g, so your router only broadcasts the 802.11n signal, which often times increases speeds and sometimes range due to it focusing on just the 1 type of wireless instead of all 3

Ditch the card your using. its problematic. haha Cons: Works well had it for about 6 months with my build. One down fall, one room away from my router if the computer is within 5 inches of my wall it will connect but will not get internet. Move it 1 more inch from wall and it works fine. Cons: Sometimes it doesn't automatically connect to my router. I've tried looking this up and finding out the problem to no avail. Note: I'm using Windows 7 Professional 64-bit. Cons: worked for 8 months with no problems,now when playing bf3 plays for about 10 min then get static feedback through my speakers and ping go from 68-72 too over 4k. Cons: Limited connectivity, no internet. Cons: Does not sit well in the PCIE socket (Had to bend the bracket to keep the card from popping out randomly) Speeds are sub par even on a 4-5 bar connection. Looking at it now i'm fluctuating between 7.7mbps and 200kpbs (you mileage may vary.). Randomly drops connection Cons: Was slow at all times Eventually began to disconnect me occasionally Has now given up completely Cons: - Extremely low connection speeds (~0.05 Mbps down) This one makes a lot of sense due to its lack of components on it compared to many other wireless cards. Cons: * Expensive for what you get * Leeches off your CPU rather than use its own hardware * Included utility feels clumsy and poorly translated * Wireless speed is never constant, I'm streaming HD video one day then struggling to download a Flash Player update the next *Extremely unreliable, will disconnect will no prior warning for days at a time, or "lose internet access" while connected to a network, all while my phone and laptop are fine. Theres so many more, but just to give you an idea that its probably your card. lol

Also, theres a lot of bad reviews with bad or no connectivity, lag, etc with that network card, which is a shame with it being made by Asus, but hell it looks like a gimped down network card. Check the reviews for yourself on newegg of people that used it and it worked fine for a few months before having issues. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320074&Tpk=Asus%20PCE-N15 Im willing to bet your card is the problem just by those reviews alone!

packets are info your computer sends out to the internet and receives when talking back and forth to a site. Lost pockets would normally mean an issue someplace and could explain why things are slow in lamers terms as for my google latency its 23ms, and smd is 53ms but I also have a 40mb download connection and 4 or 5mb upload connection.

what are you using for a router?