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Everything posted by audiofanaticz

  1. You will want to fire the port towards the rear hatch of the vehicle so it has something to load off of and makes the wave longer and a lot louder.
  2. A hardware store would be a safe bet, they usually have a bunch of hardware there like set screws and stuff! It will be a good idea to take one of them out that you plan to replace so you can go inside with it and use the size/thread checker so you buy the correct size. They are every day run of the mill set screws, get stainless ones if you want something stronger than the cheap ones used in the amp.
  3. Typically when adding 1/0 wire from the charging stud of your alternator to the battery positive terminal the wire is rather short and typically able to be ran in such a way where the wire is never in real danger of abrasion causing a short or extreme heat from something such as the exhaust/manifold. Now you can fuse it if you are overly concerned about it not being fused and you will want to fuse it as close to your alternators output amperage. The vast majority of people don't fuse their positive wire for the "big 3" due to the reason I mentioned above and the reason I mention down below. You will want to use an ANL fuse and fuse holder not a fusible link. I think the largest gauge fusible links are around 8 gauge (maybe 4 gauge), but I am not aware of the amperage ratings they offer. Using a 8 gauge or even 4 gauge fusible link on 1/0 wire will most likely cause a decent amount of resistance under high amperage loads and that's not ideal because it creates heat in the wire. I'm more than certain your current fusible link for your starter is rather low amperage and rated for the maximum amperage that your starter draws when starting the vehicle. That being said it is fine and will not need to be replaced for a larger fusible link. So if you have 180 amp alternator you can probably get by with a 150 amp fuse but if it blows use a 200 amp fuse, a 250 amp alternator then use a 250 amp fuse, if its a 390 amp alternator use a 400 amp fuse, etc. Try to use the closest fuse size without going over by too many amps, typically a fuse will allow a decent bit of additional current through for periods of times before it blows (which is why I said a 150 amp fuse for a 180 amp alternator). However like I said above it's typically not needed or done by almost anyone who does the big 3 upgrage.
  4. You can charge it all at once with all batteries connected together. Just be aware that it will probably take a while to charge them, it will come down to the battery size (ah rating) and the size of your charger.
  5. Really it doesn't matter too much since its not going to change anything else in your system so its more on your preference. If you tuned your amp with the 8db overlap and you want the vu-din to light up red when you start to clip your amp then use a 8db track. Some people may not want to see the red light up at all and will back off the adjustment just a little bit so it only lights up red when you are going in to hard clipping. Where as others will set it up so that it hits the red mark a little before you go in to clipping. Play with it a little and see how you like it for yourself.
  6. You should never need to max out the gain to get an amp to make rated power so something is wrong. Refer to my post on this thread because I'm not going to type it all over again, but this person had similar issues with gain voltage. Then again using a dmm is part of the problem in these scenarios.
  7. Technically yes, all amps will draw some power when off but not in the sense you are thinking of. It's very little, we are talking milliamps that just keep the capacitors inside the amplifier filled up. This goes for anything electronic that has capacitors in it really, and even your radio will use some power when off to keep your presets, clock, settings intact. Again, nothing that will kill your battery. On an amplifier that is 5000 watts rms we are talking a draw of like a half amp if not less, and having multiples of these amps wont kill your battery when the vehicle is off, so something so small like what you are using its nothing, like I said its less than equivalent to turning your lights on.
  8. As long as you wired it correctly and the power was off when the radio/vehicle is off chances are very unlikely that it killed the battery. That amp/sub combo is 50 watts rms with a peak power rating of 160 watts (which it will never most likely never make), so it draws about 5-10 amps of current when it is used at its maximum volume and probably has a fuse rating of 7.5-10 amps. A standard halogen headlight uses about 5 amps and a pair of headlights is about 10 amps usually. For that matter your aftermarket radio has a larger amp than what you put in and draws more power! So unless your having your battery die every time you turn on your headlights, and as long as the amp is hooked into the power correctly I can reassure you that the battery failed for another reason. Maybe the battery is rather old, or been abused (there are date codes of when it was manufactured usually on the battery sticker), maybe your alternator is going/went bad and is no longer able to charge the battery and the battery finally just ran out of juice, maybe a combination of the both, but not because you put in some very low power amp/sub combo that literately takes less power than any other electricidal device in your vehicle. So going with freak coincidence along with a possible underlying issue someplace else in the electrical system would be a safe bet!
  9. Yes, they are made to adjust voltage to desired voltage. However you need to take apart your alternator and remove the internal voltage regulator, so you will need to send your alternator out to whoever built it for you to be able to use one of these. That being said most alternator companies offer the Transpo voltage regulators and you may be able to get them a tad cheaper if you buy it from the company that is doing the work on your alternator.
  10. If it was me I would still go ahead and put it in, after all you already bought it so you might as well use it, it its typically easy to install. All the potential issues are rather simple to get around and come up with solutions for fairly easily and cheap to do if any of them do arise.
  11. You're definitely high, just a reflection from the flash. These baskets don't break. They are like 20lbs alone! People even cut out spokes for more of a free flow for spl purposes and they are still strong af!! I nearly shit my pants the first time I had a TC 18 basket and the Sundown 18 frame side by side. They chunnnnnnnnnky
  12. Almost all high output alts will have an underdrive pulley, thats where they get some of their additional power from due to it spinning faster, which that in itself can some times cause another issue in higher revving vehicles. Typically the smaller underdrive pulley will be a 3 to 1 ratio, for every 1 revolution of your engine your alt will spin 3 times. Typically an alt won't turn on until the alt pulley is spinning at 1800-2400 rpms (again this will vary a lot from vehicle to vehicle alt to alt), but if your vehicle idles at 600rpm that means the alt is only seeing about 1800rpm and may not turn on until 2000rpm. This is rarely an issue though except when you put big monsters on small fuel friendly cars. Also once that alt is under full load be prepared for it to rob a good 20hp from your engine! If your car has a/c I think the stock belt length is 44.3 inches (typically the last 3-4 numbers of the belt model number is its length), so if you could find a 43.75 to 44 inch belt you should be in decent shape. Typically you want to go .5 to 1 inch shorter on belt length to accommodate for that smaller pulley which will keep your belt tensioner in the ideal position. Granted if your able to add an additional idler pulley close to the alt for a tighter belt wrap your factory length belt maybe just fine to use still. Its a pain in the ass but a easy method for finding ideal belt length is to use a piece of string and wrap it around all the pulleys as if it was your belt, and then with a second pair of hands have someone hold the belt tensioner in its normal position (how it rests with the factory belt) and when they are holding it there mark the string with a marker where the 2 pieces come together and then measure the length of the string. That is your needed belt length with no guessing. Kind of hard to explain it, but its simple to do.
  13. Well I can tell from looking at it that its directly from Sundown like that, and someone has tried rebuilding it in the past or tried rigging it together before you got it. All that white glue is not factory. So whoever possibly reconed it last didn't screw the bolts in all the way or used bolts that are too long and then tried gluing it and said good enough. It can be fixed by being reconed and having the bolts tightened or the correct ones installed. Its a really simple fix if you know how to do a recone, if you don't then don't attempt it because if you mess up you just threw your money out the window and have to order another recone. If you were closer I could fix it, but it looks like you're in FL, so your best bet would be to contact Apex Audio in NC, they do a lot of recones, refurb, and custom built Sundown subs. They are located in the same building as Sundown but it is a completely different company with different owner(s) than Sundown. Here is their facebook https://www.facebook.com/caraudiobargain
  14. Search for a belt in the correct length with more ribs, like 8, 9, 10 ribs. Then what you do is take a sharp utility knife and you cut the additional ribs off the belt down to the correct rib size you need. People with 3-7+ alt setups have been doing this for decades without issue. Usually Gates Industrial belts (green in color) will have the larger lengths and higher rib count. Going with a narrower belt than what you need (ie; 6 ribs instead of 7) will be less surface contact on the pullies and could cause your belt to slip around the alternator pully when the alt gets loaded down. Also that is a lot of alt for such a small motor, hopefully your idle is high enough or you may have no output from the alt when the engine idles because the alt isn't spinning fast enough, or if it does turn on it will have rather low output.
  15. My voltage dropped to 15.5 volts last night, never seen it go lower than 15.9volts. Guess its time to build up this 190ah cmax bank. meh
  16. For what its worth, go buy some headway cells to play around and test with so you can learn first hand. I just wouldn't use them in a vehicle, and if you do enough messing around with them you'll see why yourself.
  17. I agree just watching videos and going at it isn't going to teach you everything, but I'm saying buy actual cells, by the tools needed to test the cells, by the charger needed to charge the cells (no a regular battery charger, nor a lithium battery charger wont work for this), learn how to bottom balance cells, how to properly group cells in series and then learn how to group those series cells in parallel, and then run these small scale banks outside of a vehicle for a while (as in months) as you learn about them and continuing to read/watch anything you find that relates to your use case. For example use your newly built banks to power a garage stereo or a atv or something small scale that you can stress test to hell and back and even try to make it fail this way you know the safety precautions to take when you build something on a larger scale, and what to implement and how to implement it. My point has absolutely nothing to do with you or your friend saving money by going the DIY route because frankly I could care less how your money is spent, my view is from a safety perspective. That is why I only mentioned 2 batteries that seem "safer" than other prebuilt offerings from companies that have multiple models. This doesn't mean that diy batteries are not safe because they can be built better than a lot of these manufactures mass produced batteries are, but most people are not willing to go the extra mile and buy the tools needed to do things correct so at that point something like a Titan or a JY maybe the better solution compared to a DIY built bank where the person is just tossing things together and crossing their fingers. Everyone thinks they can just bolt a bunch of batteries together and toss it in a vehicle, and sadly that is the wrong approach and how costly mistakes happen that result in losing a battery, vehicle, or even a house because you park your vehicle in an attached garage. I'm not trying to be harsh or a dick about this stuff, but seriously this crap has happened time and time again yet no one learns from it or takes the time to actually educate and test stuff and instead they insist on jumping right in feet first. Really this is kind of similar to those that make a post asking the famous question that is "can I run my amp at 0.5 ohms" and everyones reply to it is if you have to ask than the answer is no. Once again its people that see something done and think they can do it too since they got the same amp though they are running a stock alt and a stock battery with no electrical upgrades done except some 1/0 cca wire that is actually only 4 gauge with a super thick casing from some cheap company. My bad, I must of missed that part. This just proves my point even farther though about people wanting to not only use lithium let alone build their own lithium banks yet they don't know how to disconnect a battery cable to reset their vehicles electronics and to me that is a huge red flag.
  18. This has nothing to do with this topic at hand........
  19. I would shy away from headway, cells seem to vary drastically in voltage and have other issues it seems. Granted I have no experience with them and just what I hear from people who used them and switched out for other brands. Yinglong would probably be the best bet for someone with no experience or research in them but rumor had it a while ago about a bunch of fake cells being produced so if thats true then I would buy the XS Power branded Yinglongs which will cost a little bit more but at least you know you're getting real cells and not boot leg ones, or maybe go with Titans. The last thing you want is fake cells that go bad and have a huge disaster or fire. A balancer is a must, but at the same time I question that as well because these balancers are only capable of something like 5 amps. So when your drawing 1thousands of amps from the cells and then dumping hundreds of amps back into them from the alts that 5 amp balancer isn't doing crap, period. It will only really be effective when the vehicle is off. Monitoring the battery voltage including each paralleled row of cells voltage is needed. In all honesty though if he is clueless on lithium, and you're the one helping and also clueless on it as well then I don't feel that lithium is the proper choice at all, especially if you're goal is a DIY lithium battery. There have been so many fly by night hack battery brands that came and gone after these so called builders had batteries that started a persons car on fire, so much wrong and misleading information, etc. I've done a bit of reading and messing around with it before using it in my vehicle and I surely don't know everything but what I do know is I would never recommend it to someone that knows nothing about it for safety concerns alone, but I would urge you to educate and test them first hand yourself so you understand a bit better before building something you have no idea about and putting it in a persons car. The thing is batteries will fail and may even explode (even agm batteries) but if your dead set on lithium then maybe buying a premade battery from a trusted company like XS Power or JY is the better solution instead of piecing your own together and possibly making a ticking time bomb for your vehicle (or your friends vehicle in this case). I'm still sitting on another 95ah of cmax to double my bank for almost 2 years now that I haven't even thought about touching yet.
  20. 2.5 volts is way more than needed to properly adjust the amplifier gain, period! So you shouldn't need to add bass boost or loudness of any kind on the radio to reach the needed voltage. An amplifiers gain adjustment has adjustment from 0.2 volts to 6 volts on average, as long as your headunits rca preout voltage falls between those two numbers you should be able to properly set your gain so that it is matched with your radios preout voltages. So if your radio put out 6 volts on the preouts you would use no gain, if it put out 5 volts you would use a very little, if it put out only 0.2 volts your gain would be all the way up. So with 2.5volt preouts you should be a little under halfway up. That being said if your all the way up and not even coming close to the needed output wattage theres only a few things preventing this. 1- Your RCA cords are garbage and have so much resistance in them due to a poor connection on the plug, poor soldering inside the plug, really small gauge wire, or a combination of all that which is causing voltage drop from one end to the other. 2- You have your crossovers set wrong which is limiting the output of the amp, or you set your crossovers before setting the gain. 3- Your amp is heavily over rated and doesn't make the power the manufacture states. 4- This goes along with #3 but this is why using a dmm to set gains is not always a great idea because if your amp is over rated and you have no clue you are pushing your amp into a hard clip in an attempt to reach the amps output voltage and you have no idea you're doing so. Now on the other hand if your amp is underrated and makes way more power than the manufacture says you are now setting the amp to produce much less power than it could do cleanly, so you're leaving a lot on the table that you paid for but had no clue. 5- This goes with number 4 on the dmm side of things, but a quality True RMS dmm should be used, cheaper dmm's are not as accurate. The test leads on your dmm could also be bad or going bad causing a bad connection and not allowing for true readings to be seen.
  21. If you have a DSP use that and ditch the Sony XEC1000! No idea what DSP you have but even a fairly old DSP is going to be more feature packed than any active crossover which will just give you a few options per channel while the DSP will give you the ability to have an independent 11-31 band EQ per channel, time alignment, broader crossover frequencies and slopes, a boost in rca level voltage, occasionally multiple listening positions, and so much more. There is really no need for the Sony or any other active crossover and or stand alone EQ for that matter when you have a DSP.
  22. I get what your asking I think, but leave your RCA channels that are going in to the DSP and out of the DSP the same like normal, and do the swapping of the rcas at the amp itself this way it wont mess with no processing. So what I think he is asking is say you have a 4 channel amp, typical channel 1 and 2 would be front left and front right and channel 3 and 4 would be rear left and rear right. What he wants to know is instead of using the front left and right rca for channel 1 and 2 and the rear right and left rca for channel 3 and 4 is if he splits the rca's up and uses the front left rca on channel 1 and uses the rear left rca on channel 2 and then he bridges channel 1 and 2 for the left speakers. Then repeat that process and use front right rca on channel 3 and and rear right rca on channel 4 and again bridge channels 3 and 4 for the left speakers. So typically bridging a 4 channel amp down to 2 channels which would normally be a mono signal but since channels 1 and 2 input would be fed with left inputs and the same for 3 and 4 with right inputs. So bridging it this way with the rca inputs being swapped you will still have left and right separation when the amp is bridged to 2 channels instead of 4.
  23. It's a no name company with some stupidly low priced speakers so I'm sure they ordered whatever speakers that could be bought dirt cheap which just so happened to be dual voice coils. Thats really the only reason I could think of why they would do that. I wouldn't send a separate left and right signal to the speaker since it is a dual voice coil mid, when playing a stereo signal (left and right channel) through 1 speaker that is dual voice coil you will create massive phase and cancellation issues making it sound like crap and the coils will just fight themselves and most likely heat up in the process of doing so. I'd just wire each speaker pod in series unless whatever you're using to power them can handle being wired in parallel.
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