kingsuv

Times are tough for shops. Spending the money to host a show isn't in the marketing budget for these guys anymore. Holding a show isn't cheap either. Doug has to pay Wayne to sanction the event, trophies, and travel expenses. Everyone says it's too much to spend and yet it seams the competitors aren't willing to help offset the expenses. Seams like there is a few who will bitch that the entry fee is too much or I don't want to compete and not get a trophy, or that's too far to travel for a show, and then bitch there isn't a show. Besides, what incentive does a shop have to host a show? It's not like any of the competitors spend any money in the shop. Hell most just post up in the parking lot leave trash on the ground and talk about how much retail product sucks. If I owned a shop, I would be hard pressed to host a show too with such a great return on my investment

It sure would be nice to see the West coast pull off a regional event. With the opportunity to have a West coast finals location. it's a great chance to have a strong showing for finals.

If your going to roast any coils, it's best to do it at a show. Then at least you have bragging rights for the score it puts up. Way better then giving demo's at local shops to the don't knows who will just hate on ya anyway

I'm just glad the shop you took yours to did the right thing and redid your whole install. You wanted my opinion on their work, and boy did I give it to ya It's not perfect, but turned out 100 times better then what it was the 1st time.

Thanks. All I did really was the box and point him in the direction of what I would suggest as he went. It's a process when building a big system, no upgrade is a small task.

And on with the pixs.

Don't use a silicone. It will fail over time. Use an Automotive Urethane like this. http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showLine/offerpage.aspx?ProductID=25685&GroupID=19839&History=19747:19756:41115&ModelID=19839 Any glass shop will have it and will sell you a tube.

Kingsuv California Sacramento Dual sensor TL TPI 460 Scope True RMS Clamp. I charge Beer and or Pizza money

Glad I could help get ya back up and going. I know you were pretty frustrated at the comp with the DD's. Those XL's are taking a beating and a mid 50's truck is no joke. It's not too often that it happens right from the start. I can't wait to see what little tweaks we can do to gain ya a little bit

Ahh hell, some folks gotta learn the hard way

Thanks! It was Sealed on the dash. Didn't do too much testing, the neighbors can only take so much around here.

I just had to trouble shoot an install with a breaker. I had 5v at the amp. even when it was tripped i had 5v. I have a 12v to 5v step down module in the trash if you would like it

Can't wait for the 25th to see what she really does. Should have more then a few videos then too

Couldn't of said it better

We finally had a chance to put it on the meter. We just did a few burps so I wouldn't piss off the neighbors too much, but we did get this out of it at 40hz. It's pretty flat into the low 30's as well.

Wait wait wait! Beer AND steaks??? Where was my invite? Hell I even have my own place to stay during this said project.

I would either stick with 12v or do a stand alone 16v system and keep the stock 12v for the truck. The ECU's don't like over 15v

The spiral works great. As you use your router more and more you will get a feel for speeds and movement to keep different kinds of woods from getting tearout. MDF is very forgiving. As far as size goes, you want bits that 1st match the router you get. I use mostly 1/2 shanks in my router. Depths will depend on the thickness you are working with. My spiral is 1 1/2 My rounder is a 3/4 for using MDF and my flush is a 2" for cutting 2 baffles in one pass. Bout the only thing I use my Rabbit for is plexi flush mounts to the box

Without a doubt Festool makes a kickass product, but unless it's in your hands everyday, it's not a cost effective solution for around most DIY builders or shops. I use the hell out of my router and in my years I haven't burned up enough routers to justify the cost of one Festool.

There are a few others I use, but those are just for some trim and detail work I like to include in my box building.

Here is the ones i use. First is the down spiral cutting bit. This is used to cut the baffle as well as the cutout for the flush mount. On the flush mount, it will poke through a little to create a pocket in the sub baffle. http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2081560/31617/Freud-Downcut-Spiral-Router-Bit-12D-114CL-12SH-Freud-76108.aspx Roundover bits are to make all the edges of the box nice and purty ( side note ) Do not use these if you screw your boxes together. The bit will NOT like the screw heads http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2008063/WHITESIDE-Roundover-Bits.aspx Rabbet set is used for making a lip in wood. Like when having two existing baffles and you want to flush mount the sub. http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2001864/3420/Rabbet-Set-12-SH.aspx Flush trim bit is used for a few things. first would be making a second baffle over and existing cutout and wanting them to match in cutout size, but no flush mount. Also used to cut patterns using templates. Last thing to use it for it to trim any over hang on the edges of a box. For example, if you get everything together and the top overhangs a little bit, you can cut off the extra using the side of the box as a template http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2004655/7487/Flush-TrimPattern-Cutting-Bit-12-D-x-112-CL-12-SH.aspx

I mostly use Freud and Whiteside. Woodcraft does specials on Whiteside all the time. Stuff like buy 2 get one free. I will say spend the money on good brand bits. They will last longer and give you cleaner cuts over time. There is nothing worse then being 1/2 way done in a project and needing a new bit because one is burning up on ya.

When I do the cut for my flush piece I want to cut into the baffle by 1/8' or so. This allows a channel to have the carpet staples to hide in. This part comes down to making sure you know what depth you are cutting so you don't cut too deep into the sub baffle when cutting your flush piece.

If all you want to do is add another baffle, then all you need is a flush trim bit. Make sure the bit is long enough to have the bearing ride on the original hole and the bit tall enough to cut through the thickness of the 2nd baffle. I use a 2" flush trim bit for mine. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=16976 When I do flush mount I like to stack both faces together and find my pilot hole for both at the same time. Once i drilled through both pieces I have the center start point for both. Then I can pull off the flush piece and cut the sub cutout. Once I have the sub cut out, I will attach the flush piece and glue them together. Once that's done, I will cut my flush hole out. I like to cut back into the first piece with the bit by about 1/8 this allows the carpet and staples to recess into the baffle and allows the sub to sit flush without any staples heads poking up.

Making a flush mount hole after making your cutout isn't the best option, but it can be done. What you will need to do is, attach your second baffle and flush cut the 2nd hole to match the 1st Then you will need to get what is called a rabbeting bit. You will need one that is tall enough to cut in at least the height of your sub basket lip and wide enough to cover the width of the basket lip. So say your sub basket is 1/2 tall with a surround gasket. You will need a rabbeting bit that will cut 1/2" deep chunk out of the edge. then say the basket lip is 1/2 wide. your bit will need to be at least 1/2 wide in it cut. I would look for one that is closer to 3/4 wide to allow extra room around the basket so you can round in carpet http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2116