jonathancullen89

when i first start the car it kind of idles rough a little until it warms up. i notice the boost guage bounces when it idles up and down but once it idles right the boost sits flat. going through it today. i know somthing not quite right with it, my last talon was non turbo and was faster then this car. i bought this cuz it had a really clean body (hard to find up here in wisconsin at a good price) and it was just rebuilt. motor is tight, besides an oil pan gasket leakin like a bish. car came with a new oil pan jus need the gasket

what rpms should i expect the turbo to have that boost tho?

i plan on getting a turbo after i get it paid off. but i think its sumthing that should be fixed. it should be faster then what it is

so i think i have a possible boost leak. have a 91 tsi bored 30 over greddy pistons, molly rings, stock turbo, xtd clutch, findanza lightweight flywheel. i just bought it today, i couldnt get over 7lbs and that was at 5k rpms. ive never owned a turbo car but this doesnt seem right. im looking into aftermarket aluminum intercooler piping to replace the 21 year old rubber ones that are on there. i have a few questions tho and hope someone has more knowledge then i do on the topic. im wondering whether or not i should keep the factory side mount intercooler or switch to a front mount. i dont have alot of extra money to spend at this point in time so it has to be something cheap. i found a pipe kit to use with the factory intercooler for 120 or the cheapest front mount i found was $145. the factory one would use less piping then the front mount. is that somthing to consider when talking about turbo'd cars?

its not bad but you can get a better deal from knu, $60 0 guage kit

i found this while trying to find what the AP clamped, its at car audio classifieds but its a list of amps and what they did for power. tthis is what it said for the apsm 1500. what does the .5 nominal mean does that mean it did 1550 watts at .5ohms? Audiopipe mini 1500 (APSM-1500) -.5 nominal rising to .96 -13.8 to 13.5 Volts -1550 watts CLEAN (gains set with scope)

everything as SSA is way out of my price range. do those audiopipes put out at least close to rated power? they have a 100amp fuse? id run em each at 2 ohms n still be able to go down to 1ohm if i should ever change subs.

the amps i posted where ones that i found on OCS, there are alot more amps out there was just wondering if there was nething else around my budget and power needs. i was kinda leaning toward either the m4000d or the brz1700. the 1700 is cea compliant or else im hoping the autotek can put out at least 16-1700wrms

hey im lookin for an amp around $200, going to use it to power four 12" kenwood svc4ohm 400wrms 1200peak. looking at these for now but im open to other choices. btw does anyone know the fuse rating for the crunch3500.2? it says it does3500 wrms bridged at 4 ohms. doubt it but idk autotek m4000.1 crunch gpv3500.2 hifonics brz1700.1d thanks guys

im doin my system in my blazer. now i need a security system. whats a decent cheap brand. i dont care about power locks or remote start. glass break sensor, vibration sensor, dome light on = alarm sounding. anyone know of something cheap with features like this? or suggestions i dont know alot about car alarms or what they can all do. thanks

like title says im lookin for a pair of 6x9's or 6.5's. id prefer 6x9's but tell me what u have. im looking for an equalizer, 5-7 band, volume control and preferably bass control. also lookin for a 2 channel amp 200-500wrms per channel but let me know what u have. dont want to spend a crazy amount of money on all of it but lemme know. thanks

wait!!!!! pics of said grizzly adams beard lol. but glad ur better man!

if its in a trunk car its hard as hell to fit 2 15's, did one in a cavy i had to build the box inside the car. took me about 15 hours to finish. its a pain good luck tho

the two subs because double cone area and same power. if you had the one sub on double the power ported it might be louder. depends on car and box tho.

u have a decent sub selection u just need more power to push em. get rid of that little pioneer and get something bigger. im sure sum1 on here can help design a box whether or not you can build it i dont know.

im glad i checked it, i saw a little smoke n i figured it was just really hot

alt has been makin noise for a few days now, figured it would fry but i didnt think it would start on fire. on my way home from the store it started smelling really bad, had like 3 miles to go. when i got home i opened the hood to see what the alternator and belt looked like and to my surprise it was on fire lol. so my 12 12's is gna be put on hold for a couple more weeks so i can get a 200 amp alt for the truck. wanted to get subs first then alt but shit happens. wish i coulda got pics but i didnt want the fire to burn anything else lol

looks clean, i agree tho cowboys.....

could u pm me pics please w/ user name

hmmm, can it be bridged to 2 channel? i need it to power 4 6.5" woofs and 8 tweets. woofs r 75wrms and tweets r 35wrms a pair. would like 175-300wrms per channel for 2 channel amp, i dont even know if 4 channels can be bridged or not. let me know

lookin for an amp to power my mids/high's, i dont want to spend a alot on it, i have money but most of it is going to my 8 12's and sub amp. get paid every friday so funds go up then, but need something asap let me know what u have. hifonics prefered but will consider other "good" brands

i agree with james, the 3 15" havocs would be loudest id think if u had the room for em. your price range is jumping all over tho so maybe you would have better luck saying how much i can or want to spend on subs. cone area ftw =)

talk to rusty about a level 2 sub get dual 2 ohm if u need a final 4 ohm rez