Jump to content

CorNut

Members
  • Posts

    233
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

Everything posted by CorNut

  1. Joe X is one of your best bets for help with an enclosure. The way you type without periods/commas makes your post come across as a rant, that's all. You definitely don't have adequate port area though, he's just more brutally honest than most! I'm not a box designer like him, whoever designed your box gives designers a bad name with its 6" of port area.
  2. You fuse for the wire near the battery then fuse for the amp(s) near them. The best method for me is a fused distribution block near my amps. Something similar to this: http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/distribution-fuse-blocks/sp/bassik-2-way-10-to-4-gauge-fuse-distribution-block/ If you're only running 1 amp, a basic mini ANL or similar fuse holder will work fine. If you have KnuKnoceptz Kolossus 4awg, it's rated at 150A so you'll fuse 150A near the battery, if you have 2 amplifiers, one 80A and one 50A, you'll do a distribution block near the amps with an 80A & 50A fuse. The wire's fuse doesn't have to match the max draw of your amplifiers.
  3. They? I didn't revive it. I responded to a post at the top of recent posts/topics Mr holier than thou, stfu
  4. Kicker is entering the market with something to try & compete but that won't be until next year with their L7X. There's no saying how it'll do but they have the necessary R&D $/team to make something good. There's nothing wrong with Kicker, they make decent amps and their mids and subs are pretty good for the price too. They have products at multiple price points and you tend to get your $ worth regardless of your selection. I've made some systems sound great with Kicker subs, many with 8" CompR's but they've never compared to either of the SA-8 builds I did. I already have a guy wanting to do a 15" L7X build so I'll have my hands on those to try early on
  5. I read elsewhere a good 1 cu ft tune is 32-33hz with a subsonic filter set at 28hz. The amp I ordered is a CXA800.1, its birth certificate says 862w. I'm not using a DSP, I'm tapping into factory wiring and planning to use the amp's adjustable high pass filter and its fixed 25hz subsonic filter. My main issue is the fixed subsonic filter, is 32-33hz still a good tune or should it be lower because of that? Music is rap/R&B/Soul/hip hop. I want to protect the sub and while I want SPL, SQ is the main focus since the amount of power paired with the SA-10 should be plenty loud regardless. The factory radio is GM's Bose setup in a 2018 Cruze hatchback. Watching a video online, it looks like the factory amp's input I'm tapping into is a variable voltage signal with a flat signal. The mids and highs sound decent but it lacks bass. The non hatchback Bose package has 2 rear deck 6x9's as its subs, I guess it sounds decent but the hatchback has a single 6.5 in the spare tire well which is worthless IMO.
  6. room under your seat for sa10's? The only thing that fit under the back seat in my truck is a clarion shallow mount 10. I envy your truck if you can fit real subs under there. If you can fit the SA10 under the seat I'd definitely go that route since you have to buy a pair of 10's anyway, may as well make it an upgrade for you.
  7. I had some settings on the crossover wrong, it sounds much better now. It doesn't get as loud as I'd like it to but I'm sure that's due to the amp's limitations. I can crank the head unit and the mids, highs and sub still sound clear which is nice but I wish I had a little bit more behind it. I'm happy with the outcome even though it isn't quite what I was hoping, it still blows away any other 8 I've personally heard, but with my 5 channel amp it surely won't get mistaken for a 12 like others say theirs do
  8. I got it hooked up but there's like no volume at all. It's like my amp can't push it? I checked impedance, it registered as 1.8ohm so wiring is good. This is the amp I have, it's supposed to be 350w RMS @ 2ohm to the sub channel. https://www.harmanaudio.com/Search_Browse/productspecs.asp?product=KAPPA%20FIVE I didn't take any new shots, I was focused on trying to figure out what the deal is with it. I have the gain maxed, the sub level on the head unit maxed and there's barely any tone. You can "hear" it but there's really no movement to the sub at all, I figured 350w rms would be plenty to get it sounding decent. Can you think of something I'm doing wrong? Or are these subs really that power hungry and this amp can't give it what it needs? My old (factory) 8 was much louder in it's tiny sealed box than this in the bigger, ported box. I measured the box with a garbage bag and water, it came to .65 cu ft before speaker displacement, .57 with and I tuned the box to 35hz, everything seems like it should work perfectly when going over it in my head? I'll stop rambling, any pointers/recommendations are appreciated
  9. well, I almost finished it. I finished the box but a crazy thunderstorm hit and within seconds I was soaked. I didn't actually hook it up yet, but I'll try to find the time to in the next couple days. This is a horrible shot, the inside of the trunk and myself got drenched just trying to take this shot to post for ya ! I know it's a horrible pic but I'll try to get a better one for ya tomorrow or the next day along with an update on how it sounds.
  10. it'll hold for sure. I was planning to sand it down and maybe use some foam to fill any voids but fiberglass is an option. I have lots of fiberglass, I just took a mold for a sub box in a grand prix for a family member. Despite how this box looks, I can actually build boxes. Here's one I did a couple weeks ago in a single cab ranger. I barely got the .5 cu ft I needed for it but I made it work and it's 100% out of the way. that pic wasn't the finished shot, I never did take one, but I will next time he's over. Those wires are all hidden now and the box is actually up against the back wall, it wasn't secured yet in this pic, I just took that to send the image to another friend to show him I got it to fit in there. There was no room for error on the measurements on that box. Luckily the one for the SA-8 isn't going to be seen by anybody, that car's more of a toy that I drive on the weekends when I wanna autocross or play on rural roads
  11. SSA is where I just got my SA-8 from, received it within a few days. I actually purchased mine from their store on Amazon though, since I have an Amazon Visa it gives me 3% back on Amazon purchases. I hate knowing they had to pay an extra fee to Amazon but I can't throw away free reward $. SSA was great though, shipped first business day and I received it on the west coast within 2-3 days of shipment.
  12. I'm not very skilled with the jigsaw, I was planning to sand it a bit and paint it black to semi match the factory box's color but I won't be able to sand it enough to fix my work. It looks like I'll end up having to carpet it. It's a little smaller than I was hoping, it's .65 cu ft so .57 after displacement but it'll do. If I add more layers I won't be able to get to my spare tire. It will probably be a few days before I work on it anymore but I'll update when I do. It's almost done but I won't have the time to finish this week, possibly not even next week but I'm hoping I'll be able to find time, otherwise it'll be 3 weeks.
  13. for sure it would, I'm after the best option that uses the factory box that's already formed to my car and bolts in to keep it secure. After displacement it's .59 after modifications, which is still slightly under optimum and that's doing an external port which I'll try to not make "too" ugly, not to that stage yet but I'll post pics whenever I have another update up until the day I install the SA-8 into the box and put it in my car. My factory box, while very sturdy for being plastic, at the end of the day it "is" plastic and won't have the same results some good mdf will have but I'm ok with that.
  14. well, there's no turning back now I'm going straight for vented, I know it's what I'll eventually do anyway so I may as well only work with it once
  15. It looks like I can add around 4", from that the usable airspace after materials and woofer displacement I'll be left with .59 cu ft. It's gonna be some work but I'm sure it'll be worth it.
  16. I ordered the sub today, If I end up porting it, 2" PVC port will only have to be ~12.5" long for 35hz. This will be in a trunk so I shouldn't have to worry about any vent noise using that small of port right? It seems if I go wider than that, my port will be too long to be practical. I can "maybe" do 2.5 but that calls for nearly 20" long. I'll be using elbows and have it tucked along the side of the box. Is there much of a downside to doing 2"? is using 2.5 going to make a noticeable difference? Thanks for all your help. The sub is shipping from NY (I'm in OR) so it'll probably be a bit but I'll post pics as soon as I have them
  17. Makes sense, I appreciate your reply. About the sub not having the output I'm after in that small of a box, I'm actually not after a whole lot. My car came with clarion mids and an 8" Rockford. I wanted more treble so I got some coax's and components (had factory tweeter so required no mounting or anything, just replaced) and it didn't give me the improvement I was after. I read about how the factory amp is mediocre so I replaced it with the Kappa-FIVE and it made an amazing difference. The sub had way more kick to it too which was a bonus, I was completely happy until it stopped sounding good, that's when I realized I blew out the surround around the sub so the box no longer had a seal. I'm in no way looking for something to break records with, I'm just after the best option I have that utilizes the factory box so I can retain my trunk space. That long story is basically it, I'm really just trying to get my bass back and in the process get as much SPL as I can while utilizing the factory box. This car isn't my primary vehicle, I use it for autocross and the occasional night out and building a box will just add more weight and I like that the factory box is already secure. Sorry about the long post, I just wanted to make sure you understood what I was after. I also appreciate the info on how the DVC subs work. It makes total sense once you point that stuff out, I'm going to order up the D4 version today. I am better off porting in .50 vs sealed @ .40 right? If I leave my box unmodified I'll have .4 after woofer displacement so that's an option. The factory box is plastic, it's definitely sturdy (has to be at least 1/4", maybe 3/8"), I hope that isn't a problem.
  18. I got some 3/4" mdf today, I'll be cutting 2 pieces out the shape of the front of my box to add a extra 1.5" air space which will put me right at .50 cu ft after woofer displacement. I'm still unsure if I should get the D4 or D2, is there a downside to only running 1 voice coil on the D2 vs running the D4 and wiring it for 2 ohm? Is it worth trying to see if my amp can squeeze out the 600w @ 1ohm it's theoretically capable of to help power the sa-8 v2?
  19. So, I decided I'll modify the box a bit (very easy to do since the front's perfectly flat) to get a little more airspace (.5 after woofer displacement). My amp is 2 ohm stable but I have read it can do 1 ohm but it can be unstable. It does put out 600w @ 1 ohm so I'm wondering if it's worth seeing if mine will do it? If I were to get the D4 and wire it to 2 ohms, would it be the same volume if my amp turns out to not be 1 ohm stable and I only run 1 of the 2 ohm coils (if I were to get the D2 instead)? If there's no downside to running just 1 of the 2 ohm coils if my amp isn't stable at 1 ohm (how do I even tell if it's stable or not?) is that a good idea? I don't quite understand all of this stuff, I know just enough to get myself in trouble. I don't really care if there's a chance that I blow the amp, I bought it used a couple years ago for $150 so it isn't like I'd be devastated. If it'd pretty much be a for sure thing that I'll blow the amp I won't do it but if just a slight chance I'm willing to risk it. If anything, it'll force me to upgrade to one of the Rockford 5 channel amps or the old Polk (sure I can find a used one) that are stable at 1 ohm. So, basically I'm asking if I should get the D2 or D4. thanks!
  20. you do realize by saying no vs threads you're rentamodding? so you're breaking the rules too, besides this isn't a vs thread, it's not x brand against y brand, it's 2 sundown subs, he's asking which would suit his application better. To the OP, i'd run the SA-8v2 over the SD any day. the 350w won't limit it too much? I am actually wanting to use the SA v2 but wanted to make sure my amp isn't too small
  21. The front of my factory box is flat, I can cut 2 pieces of 3/4" mdf the shape of the box and sandwich them between the box and another piece of MDF to cut back out to 8" and it will add 1 cu ft of airspace to accommodate the subwoofer displacement and the extra .02 my box needs to total .5. Is doing that a bad idea? It sounds like the sundown 8's are good SPL for small applications but you're saying .5 isn't enough for the SA's? I know their specs say .5 is ok but real world they're not? Does nobody know about the SD-2's? Is this just more work than it's worth or something? Am I thinking these are louder than they really are? is my box being converted to accommodate a sealed 10 (Phoenix Gold RSd) going to be just as loud as a ported SD-2 8 or SA-8 v2 with my current setup?
  22. oh the .5 doesn't include that? well dang. I guess it won't work out for me eh? sucks
  23. ah, for some reason I thought they all wanted .5 by SA are you referring to all SA, 1, 1.5 & 2? The SD is good for .5 ported? I'm trying to reuse my factory sub box (.48 cu ft to be exact but I figure that's close enough to .5)
  24. I have a .5 cu ft box in my car that I was wanting to throw an external port on in order to use an SA-8 v2. I haven't ordered it yet since I started to wonder if the SA-8 (400w rms) v1 or SD-2 8 (300w rms) would be better for my application. My amp is a Kappa FIVE 5-channel amp with a sub channel that's rated 350w @ 2ohm so I was looking at getting a D4 with whichever I go with. I'm looking for SPL, would the v2 that's 600w rms still be better for me or would me under powering it actually make it quieter than either of the other 2 options? Thanks for your help
×
×
  • Create New...