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About CorNut

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  1. I'll throw it in and run with it then. I appreciate your help. Btw in my last message I meant 1.08 before woofer displacement, not port displacement but I'm sure you knew what I meant. Thanks again
  2. If you don't get the help you need, one of the sponsors here has a quick turnaround. https://www.caraudiofabrication.com/
  3. The box needs to be small for this vehicle and the SA has been sitting around for a while, I figured wth. Would you suggest pairing the box/amp with a different sub? I went to finish it today but it turns out I don't have the right size hole saw for the terminal cup so I ordered a different sized one. Being a single ported 10 I decided it's ok to use a terminal cup. It needs to sit flush against the seat and a terminal cup is the only way. I don't mind putting a different sub in there if I'll be doing the SA a disservice. Before port displacement it'll be ~1.08 cu ft and the port will be 28" long. Now it's time to go learn about box rise
  4. This is for a small car. It'll be replacing a 1 cu ft sealed 12" Punch HX2 D4 (old). This box is 1" taller, a little wider but significantly less depth than what it's replacing. The amp's 1-ohm stable so the SA 10 D2 will pull more out of it. My hope is that it has a lot more output which I'm certain it will. I appreciate your responses. I don't want the box too small but 1cu ft (.98) is at the small end of the manufacturers recommendation, plus I'm slightly overpowering it so it should be ok. It took forever to get the #'s, I appreciate you confirming my calculations. With the number of boxes I build I need to get better at calculating.
  5. wow really? That's taking into account the port displacement including the 3/4" port wall? I think I'll add 5" for it to fall closer to 32 than 33 if it'll keep it right at 1 cu ft.
  6. your woofers are already 2" from the trunk? That's really close. Realistically, 15's and port if both facing the same way should be at the very least, 6" from any sort of wall, 7-8" is even better. Going with 6" though, it leaves you 4.8 cu ft (37x16x14) to work with. After displacement for port, woofers, wood thickness etc you'll tend to lose 35-45% of your usable space. If you can manage it with only losing 35% you're left with 3.12 cu ft, and that's assuming you can use every last inch and still be able to load it in the trunk. Realistically, you'll probably be slightly under 3 cu ft usable if that helps your decision. If you can get 3 cu ft usable, you might be able to run a SA 15
  7. Nobody? I was really hoping somebody with more experience could confirm if my calculations were correct but my box is just sitting there while waiting for an answer. I guess I'll just hope I'm right if I don't get a response by tomorrow.
  8. I'm lowering it for the subwoofer's safety with the non-adjustable 25hz subsonic filter, not for sound. I've also already decided I'm changing it to 33 to keep box size at the recommended space but I'm concerned about my calculations. I'm hoping somebody can check my #'s before I do something permanent, that's all. This isn't going to be in my vehicle, she loves low bass and is deaf to distortion.
  9. I measured the total volume minus all displacement (woofer/bracing/port), what's left is 1.035 The internal dimensions of the port are 2.1875 (height), 22.375 (length), 5 (top), 5.75 (bottom) Using the 12volt box calculator (I can't figure building programs out) it says I need to extend my port 4" to get down to 33hz, I have 8" before the wall so there's room to do it. Ideally I'd like 32hz but stopping at 33hz gets me to .9984 cu ft, the bottom of Sundown's recommendation of 1-1.25 cu ft for the SA 10. When calculating the extra .75" for wood on the port wall, I lose ~.009 cu ft every inch I extend it. It'll have a sort of double baffle where the woofer's going to be mounted. I know it's not optimum how I'll have to angle the sub's top and bottom screws for mounting the woofer but I'm trying to make the box as small as possible. It's going in a family member's daily Chevy Cruze hatchback so space is at a premium. I was limited on height because of the cover separating the cargo area. When I place the baffle, the parts above and below the sub will be glued with at most 1/2" to spare, being ported I hope it's ok but she'll have to go sealed if not. Does my calculation of extending 4" to get 33hz look accurate? My goal was 32, unless my math is off it didn't work out. My amp (Kicker CXA800.1) claims 872 on the birth sheet and it has a non-adjustable 25hz filter so I was hoping to keep the tuning low.
  10. I've had good luck with X2Power AGM batteries from Batteries Plus. As far as I know (unless it changed), they're re-branded Northstar batteries. Another bonus is they come with a 4-5yr (depending on model) warranty, it either matches or beats actual Northstar brand. They currently have a 10% coupon if store pick-up is an option, plus there's currently a $30 rebate on a lot of the X2Power AGM's. Here's an example, the NorthStar 31M with a different sticker: https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/sli31agmdpm 10% coupon on the homepage and here's the rebate https://apfco.com/Secured/W1788/R10156/Home/EntryForm It comes out to $357 if you don't mind dealing with a rebate in case it's less than they're charging for the NorthStar.
  11. comparing the 2 on paper, xmax is better on the U but EVL has less port area requirement so you can get fit the enclosure into a smaller space. You didn't give much info or goals
  12. It's hard working with small boxes. My port is too small, it was a compromise between port size and net volume. In hindsight, that might be part of my problem since I was too stubborn to raise my backseat on a (at the time) brand new truck. People that ride in my passenger seat are blown away as well, the box itself looks like a bench for the backseat unless you know what you're looking for, it catches people by surprise. Certain notes do get vent noise, I'm ok with it but I'll do things better next time. I'm thinking when I get a new truck, I'll go forward facing port if it has adequate port area, if not I'll try to do a rear facing slot port in a nonrestrictive way if it's possible. It's hard doing under seat boxes unless you go sealed but that's limited in its own ways.
  13. If I don't double baffle with a recess I'll use a recess ring behind the baffle so it'll still have that flush look. I didn't design the box I'm building, I'm torn between following it to a T or whether it's overkill for my application. It's going in a small hatchback so I'm hoping to conserve storage area but only if I'm not sacrificing performance. It'll occasionally need to be removed but I'd rather deal with the weight and loss of additional .75" storage space if there's a performance benefit. I may not be able to do a recess ring anyway, I'm getting the wood tomorrow and I'll test fit as I build. The SA 10 has a 6" top mount depth so that may make the decision for me.
  14. This is what I built for my silverado, my port is side firing on the driver's side, driver is down firing on passenger side. The bass is night and day better in the driver's seat compared to front passenger. Do you not have that problem with your current box? I'm typically the only one in the vehicle, at least my seat's the better sounding one. It sounds great on both sides but the driver's side sounds amazing. When I upgrade trucks again, I won't be doing a side port. http://www.southpad.com/silverado
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