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CorNut

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CorNut last won the day on July 20

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  1. I installed some kicker cs coax (all 4 doors) connected to a kicker key 4 channel and was impressed. I was doing a budget build for somebody, I've done builds with ks and cs, bang for buck I really like what you get from the cs's.
  2. My drawing is nowhere close to scale. The enclosure is only about 1/3 the recommended (minimum) sealed volume. I can almost double the volume doing what I'm considering. I will be overpowering the sub a bit so I think that'll compensate for it still being undersized even after the modification. The person this is for listens mostly to oldies. He's borrowing a Sundown 10 I have on his backseat until I get the box made for his 8" CompR. The system is nothing special, it's some 6.5 KS components, 6.5 KS coax and the CompR 8. The amps are Walmart specials, a Jensen 4ch and a Jensen mono. It won't be much work to make the box with the added space. The worst part about it is I'll probably have to pull the backseat to install it.
  3. I'm building a sealed enclosure but can't get the necessary airspace unless I upfire and make a sort of extension on top of the box that'll fit behind the backseat of a truck. Will it be ok to do that? here's a basic example of what I'm thinking, I'm wondering if I can cut some holes in the box where the arrows are and make a sort of U shape that'll tuck behind the seat. It'd sort of be like a handle that goes over the woofer on the box like 2 external ports that connect together. There's not enough room to go ported, I'm doing it purely to get the necessary volume for a sealed enclosure. I hope it makes sense, it's going in a 2012 Tundra double cab which has very little space available to hide an enclosure. I'm guessing it'll work but I want to be certain there's no downside to having 2 separate enclosures sorta connected together. Thanks
  4. 12 will be fine for a short run, I'd run 8-10awg if it were me but only because I go a step or 2 overboard. 12awg can easily handle a 1500w short run though, assuming it's good wire.
  5. Car, 69 Chevelle I believe the OEM alternator is 36A since it's the non-A/C model. I'm installing a Kicker CXA 1200.1 (150A fuse) and a Kicker CXA 360.4 (50A fuse) I'm not wanting to install a second battery, will this work? The current battery is an Optima red top
  6. that's a link to the first one I seen, there's others already here on the site. You just need to find one that'll fit into your trunk. If you're looking for a quick fix to get going now though, either of the prefabs I linked should work. The second one may have some port noise but you have a trunk that'll muffle it so that shouldn't matter. Another I just found that I really like for the price is this one: https://www.skaraudio.com/products/sk2x12v-dual-12-inch-ported-subwoofer-enclosure-box With the slight angle on the back it'll limit wasted space if you rear fire it. If you go prefab, I say choose that one. You'll set your amp's subsonic to 24hz with the Skar box.
  7. Here's another option https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-136319-Atrend-12RPD.html It doesn't look as good but it's tuned a little lower if that's what you're after. Set your subsonic to 24-25hz with this one. If you're up for building a box you can do better, the second box I linked appears to not have much port area, that's the kind of issue you run into with prefabs
  8. If you're wanting an inexpensive box that one I linked has decent specs for p3's, set your amp's subsonic filter to 27hz. That's a good amp and sub combo.
  9. Can you fit something like this? https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-72853-Belva-BBX212BK-BLACK.html How much of your trunk are you willing to sacrifice? By DW, do you mean D2? What amp will you be running?
  10. I'm doing an all Kicker build for a friend, he purchased the mids, a 360.4 and a 1200.1 He's only interested in a kicker sub or subs. For mids, he ordered KS 6.5's for up front and some 6x8 KS's for the rear. We were originally planning on 2xCVR 12's but he's thinking he wants to go ported after hearing my single RE 10. I can't find much on comparisons between X and Q series. It looks like a pair of either can handle the wattage. The car is for show and he wants everything to match. I explained there's less expensive/more powerful amps and better subs but it's what he wants, I'm just the installer. I was considering recommending 10's since it'd be easier to build a ported enclosure (trunk). I appreciate any input.
  11. Awesome. I knew venting wouldn't be an issue, the 1/8" gap was too make sure the magnet doesn't touch/rattle on the back of the box. What I was worried about is if it'd be a week point only leaving the wood 5/16" back there. I'm not planning to poly-fil. Thank you, I'll finish assembly as is.
  12. Apparently geometry isn't my strong suit, I thought I'd have enough room to recess the woofer but it didn't work as planned. It is a 0.8 cu ft sealed enclosure for a single Sundown SD-4 10 D2. After using the router to cut a half moon, I have as little as 5/16" left with a 1/8" gap between the magnet and wood. I'm not sure if the thin layer of titebond will help but I put it there hoping the semi rough area will absorb some. The box is built with 3/4" MDF, if it were for me I'd try it with the cut and if it failed I'd rebuild it but that's not the case. The person this is for isn't a bass head, he listens to things like Peter Frampton. It's not a customer, he's just a friend but I don't want to send him off with something that'll fail. The amp he's using is a Kicker Key 500.1 and I doubt he'll really crank it. Even if he did, I'm not sure the amp can push it to its full potential anyway. It's a 600W RMS sub being powered by a 500W mini amp. I know I can cut a hole and place another piece behind it but I built this to angle with his backseat. Doing that will make the box stick out that much further which I'm hoping to only do if I have to. I know that's the best way to do it, but is it essential? I appreciate any input, I'm hoping this will work but I'm wanting to run it by you guys first.
  13. Well shoot, the replies are as conflicting as the thoughts in my head already were. I have experience with a couple SA series builds which is why I was looking at Sundown for this, those builds blew me away for what they had into them.. I was hoping to keep the cost of the sub down because I overspent on the amp after learning it'd counter the factory crossover. I might suck it up and spend more than planned on the sub too but I'll take some time to think about it. I have a Punch HX2 in a prefab to use in the meantime after I install the amp on Sunday. Thank you for the replies
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