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CorNut

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About CorNut

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  1. CorNut

    Sealed or ported?

    http://www.southpad.com/silverado In case you want to see some of the build process, it's at the link there. I do exclusively ported these days, with good subs and proper tuning it gets more output per watt. The boxes are bigger but you get by with smaller/less amps to make up for it. I like basic setups without having to upgrade the electrical aside from maybe big 3 and replacing battery with an AGM. That isn't something you can do without stressing your electrical running a >2,000w setup to match the SPL of a ported setup. There's lots of subjective opinions, that's mine.
  2. CorNut

    Sealed or ported?

    I listen to mostly metal and love my ported RE 10". It handles both bass guitar and kick drum fine. I'm tuned around 35hz, some music sounds better than others but it all sounds better than it did when it was sealed.
  3. CorNut

    choosing a new 10" sub

    Those specs look meant to be aside from my box's tuning. ~35 was my goal but the shape of the box prevented appropriate port length unless I used a small diameter port. That isn't much more $ than the Skar either, thank you.
  4. My sub is making some pretty bad sounds and its output is starting to lack, I'm guessing it's on its way out. It also seems to be overextending at times which causes it to cut out. It's been a great sub up until now. My amp is a first gen Audiopipe APSM-1300 which is rated 1,000w RMS @1-ohm, the box is 1.1 cu ft tuned around 38 hz. I may have pushed too much distortion to it, from what I read the Audiopipe amps aren't the cleanest and it was tuned by ear. I've been looking at the Skar DDX & EVL 10's but they both want at least 1.75 cu ft,. The price is reasonable, will one of those work with my setup or is there a better option? I'll get the gains/settings set properly this time. I also ordered a DSP so hopefully that'll help. The box was built for the Pioneer Champion Pro sub but they no longer sell that series.
  5. CorNut

    6.5" sub, round port size?

    I'm not sure what the 10 is tuned to, I just know the 10 in my truck is tuned to just under 36 and it has way more range/sounds great. Maybe it's the sub and not me tuning the box too low? Regardless, I want to find a way to make it sound better. Ignore my poor lingo here, but I'll use Nemesis "munchies for your bass" for example. When it does the 2 highest bass notes of the song followed by the 2 lower ones, then 2 even lower. The first 2/higher ones are barely noticeable, then the middle ones are insanely loud and the lowest ones are less audible, but make the rearview mirror unusable. The same song in my truck which has a 10" RE Audio SL series sounds equally good at all notes, it's tuned to ~36hz. It doesn't have nearly the rumble with the really low notes but it's a slimline sub so it's expected. I can't easily change the tune on the Pioneer 10, it was a pain to build the box and the port is epoxied in there because it was rattling. It was right up to the back of the fiberglass mold. It wasn't my first attempt at fiberglass, but it was a hard build, things didn't work out right but I was able to salvage it. I guessed on the tuning. I used a 2 cup pyrex glass measuring cup, lined the box with a shower curtain and seen how many cups of water I could fill it with. I installed the port and baffle after that, it rattled bad so I reached in and epoxied it in place to the back of the box. I then compared that measuring cup to another when I realized the sub's range wasn't what I'm used to, the measuring cups were off from each other, it's too late to change anything without irreversible guessing at this point. Fronts are 6.5" Kappa coax's, the amp is an RE Audio 90.4, it's 85x4 @ 2 ohm, currently running bridged, 150x2 @ 2 ohm. I have the amp turned down anyway, it's too much for the fronts, I have no rears. I thought maybe a single/small ported sub tuned a little higher would fill the gap. I can unbridge the amp, it'll still give me 85x2 up front and it'll leave me with either 85x2 or 150x1 if running 2 ohm. Sorry for the long winded explanation but that's my situation/what I'm dealing with. I'll take any advice you have. I currently have no rear speakers, I bought the 6.5 sub but it's not a big deal if I don't end up using it, it was inexpensive & my nephew would love it. If I can use those rear channels to help compensate I'm all for it. The Pioneer sub sounds amazing, it isn't like it sucks but I'm hoping to supplement where it falls flat. The rear/factory speakers (not used) are 6x9's, that's why I was figuring I'd use a 6.5, I planned to build a small box and secure it to the rear deck where one of the factory speakers are. I hope to not lose trunk space, that's why I did the fiberglass box next to a rear wheel well.
  6. I'm planning to use this as midbass to supplement a 10" Champion Pro where it's lacking. Is a 2" round port too much for a 6.5" sub? It's a Skar Audio EVL-65 D4 I've always believed 2" for an 8, 3" for a 10 and 4" for a 12. I'm not saying that's right, but that rule of thumb has worked out for me. If not in a trunk, I've ventured a bit larger to avoid port noise, but this will be in a trunk. I have no experience with a 6.5" sub, I already purchased it, hopefully it does ok.
  7. I got it installed, it's a much better fit
  8. I have some Infinity Kappa 60.9cs 6.5" components, I've had them in my truck for a few years now. Out of curiosity, I took a tester to them and both tweeters say they're reversed polarity. Is that normal? A lot of the Infinity options were 2 ohm, this set was 4 ohm. I'm assuming I didn't wire them both wrong & they're designed to run at 4 ohm by running the components in series? The crossovers are buried in my dash, it'd be a lot of work to make sure they're wired correctly. If it were just 1 of the tweeters, that'd be one thing but since it's both I'm assuming I didn't make a mistake. Is my thinking correct?
  9. Yup, that's all it'll adjust. I'm using the factory radio so there's no separate subwoofer level control
  10. I'm swapping out my JBL DSP & Soundstream amp for smaller (physically) Rockford gear I ordered the Rockford PLC2 bass knob to go with my new amp (T1000X5AD) but then seen the DSR1 DSP I ordered is compatible with the same bass knob. Does it matter which one I connect it to?
  11. I'll try to get it installed next week. It's a mess right now, I have things crammed into areas they'll stay put. I ordered a piece of ABS I'm gonna set it and the amp on. I think with its size, I might be able to put either the DSP or amp propped up behind the other. It'll be nice if I can, it'll salvage slightly more storage space behind the box for snow chains/tools etc. I'm already glad I'm making the switch. The MS-8 uses too much of the little real estate left in my truck. Ignore the mess, I had to dismantle everything to make the box fit, I used to keep it all under the seat. I'll get it cleaned back up when the ABS gets here.
  12. The RE has good tone but it doesn't rattle the vehicle like an SA8, the SA puts a smile on my face. The RE has more range and it sounds great in the cabin, I don't dislike it, I just wish the notes had a bit more oomph behind it. I didn't put much work into the build for the SA8, here's a few pics of it. It's 100% rigged together but it accomplished the 3 things I wanted: 1) bass 2) ability to AutoX 3) kept access to my spare tire The only reason I'm posting this is because I think the pics of the box I finished yesterday overshadow (ability-wise) this. As simple of build as it is, it's amazing how loud it is. I cut the front off the factory box and installed rings, port & a new baffle.
  13. I appreciate the responses. I've had my MS-8 for a long time (multiple vehicles). While looking for an alternative after seeing the MS-8 doesn't fit with my new box, I seen MS-8's selling for more than a new DSR1 so I'll do that and be done with it. I like the idea of being able to access my equipment without removing the seat.
  14. I changed the box under the rear seat in my truck & now there's not enough room for my amp (Rockford t1000x5ad) & DSP (JBL MS-8) unless I change how I mount them. I don't need the internal amp the MS-8 has, is the actual processing any better than a DSR1? The DSR1 & amp would fit under the backrest behind the box, if I keep the MS-8 I'll need to make a rack to put behind the seat. Resale value of the MS-8 more than covers the $250 a DSR1 costs. My truck is a daily driver, it's a set of kappa components, kappa coax's and a single RE Audio 10. Ease of working with it/not having to remove my seat, changing to a DSR1 makes sense if it works as well.
  15. I'm guessing I'll replace it at some point. Due to the angle, the box has a 3.5" mounting depth so a SD3 wouldn't fit. I built the box low enough that an adult can sit in the back and it won't sag into the box. The areas on top where I increased volume/depth slightly can be cut out/added to at the expense of rear passengers' comfort. The box is far enough (~2") from the floor to surface mount a driver to install a 12 if I can increase the volume enough to support it. I haven't messed with the MS-8's tuning since installing the RE but I don't expect that to help much. I thought about raising my seat so I wouldn't be as limited in sub selection but I found the RE Audio SL-10 D4,16mm xmax and it reviewed well so I went with it. I've always done small package installs but this is my first true shallow mount sub. Good luck with your build, I haven't heard an F8L but my car has a single Sundown SA-8 v.2 which is similar, it amazes people when they see it's a single 8" in a small, modified (sub rings+external port) factory enclosure.
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