Check out the SMD Web Store @!

Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

6 Neutral

About CorNut

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I got it installed, it's a much better fit
  2. I have some Infinity Kappa 60.9cs 6.5" components, I've had them in my truck for a few years now. Out of curiosity, I took a tester to them and both tweeters say they're reversed polarity. Is that normal? A lot of the Infinity options were 2 ohm, this set was 4 ohm. I'm assuming I didn't wire them both wrong & they're designed to run at 4 ohm by running the components in series? The crossovers are buried in my dash, it'd be a lot of work to make sure they're wired correctly. If it were just 1 of the tweeters, that'd be one thing but since it's both I'm assuming I didn't make a mistake. Is my thinking correct?
  3. Yup, that's all it'll adjust. I'm using the factory radio so there's no separate subwoofer level control
  4. I'm swapping out my JBL DSP & Soundstream amp for smaller (physically) Rockford gear I ordered the Rockford PLC2 bass knob to go with my new amp (T1000X5AD) but then seen the DSR1 DSP I ordered is compatible with the same bass knob. Does it matter which one I connect it to?
  5. I'll try to get it installed next week. It's a mess right now, I have things crammed into areas they'll stay put. I ordered a piece of ABS I'm gonna set it and the amp on. I think with its size, I might be able to put either the DSP or amp propped up behind the other. It'll be nice if I can, it'll salvage slightly more storage space behind the box for snow chains/tools etc. I'm already glad I'm making the switch. The MS-8 uses too much of the little real estate left in my truck. Ignore the mess, I had to dismantle everything to make the box fit, I used to keep it all under the seat. I'll get it cleaned back up when the ABS gets here.
  6. The RE has good tone but it doesn't rattle the vehicle like an SA8, the SA puts a smile on my face. The RE has more range and it sounds great in the cabin, I don't dislike it, I just wish the notes had a bit more oomph behind it. I didn't put much work into the build for the SA8, here's a few pics of it. It's 100% rigged together but it accomplished the 3 things I wanted: 1) bass 2) ability to AutoX 3) kept access to my spare tire The only reason I'm posting this is because I think the pics of the box I finished yesterday overshadow (ability-wise) this. As simple of build as it is, it's amazing how loud it is. I cut the front off the factory box and installed rings, port & a new baffle.
  7. I appreciate the responses. I've had my MS-8 for a long time (multiple vehicles). While looking for an alternative after seeing the MS-8 doesn't fit with my new box, I seen MS-8's selling for more than a new DSR1 so I'll do that and be done with it. I like the idea of being able to access my equipment without removing the seat.
  8. I changed the box under the rear seat in my truck & now there's not enough room for my amp (Rockford t1000x5ad) & DSP (JBL MS-8) unless I change how I mount them. I don't need the internal amp the MS-8 has, is the actual processing any better than a DSR1? The DSR1 & amp would fit under the backrest behind the box, if I keep the MS-8 I'll need to make a rack to put behind the seat. Resale value of the MS-8 more than covers the $250 a DSR1 costs. My truck is a daily driver, it's a set of kappa components, kappa coax's and a single RE Audio 10. Ease of working with it/not having to remove my seat, changing to a DSR1 makes sense if it works as well.
  9. I'm guessing I'll replace it at some point. Due to the angle, the box has a 3.5" mounting depth so a SD3 wouldn't fit. I built the box low enough that an adult can sit in the back and it won't sag into the box. The areas on top where I increased volume/depth slightly can be cut out/added to at the expense of rear passengers' comfort. The box is far enough (~2") from the floor to surface mount a driver to install a 12 if I can increase the volume enough to support it. I haven't messed with the MS-8's tuning since installing the RE but I don't expect that to help much. I thought about raising my seat so I wouldn't be as limited in sub selection but I found the RE Audio SL-10 D4,16mm xmax and it reviewed well so I went with it. I've always done small package installs but this is my first true shallow mount sub. Good luck with your build, I haven't heard an F8L but my car has a single Sundown SA-8 v.2 which is similar, it amazes people when they see it's a single 8" in a small, modified (sub rings+external port) factory enclosure.
  10. It's a single RE shallow mount 10, It was a lot of work for the amount of bass it gives me. RE discontinued their shallow subs but I had one sitting around. The box came to 1.07 cu ft before displacement/tuning. Figuring out the volume with the curves was difficult so I lined the box with a shower curtain & filled it to see how many gallons/cups of water it held. In the end, it finished .87 @ 35hz. The sub's recommended vented size is .65-1.0, it sounds fine for what it is, but I'd like more. I went with a 3" round port, it's the largest round port I could fit, placement isn't ideal. With the box changing shape in so many places, a slot port would've been difficult.
  11. CorNut

    updated w/pic. Install finished

    Here's the finished product, it sounds great for being a single 10
  12. CorNut

    updated w/pic. Install finished

    I couldn't take the suspense, I had to test fit it. It does fit, though it leaves about 5/8" distance between the speaker terminals and wall of the port inside the box. If I have to, I'll rotate the sub in the box. I'm happy going with 3" over 2", I originally planned to but decided it probably wouldn't fit, there's no way I could've done 4". This is going in the back corner of the trunk, there''ll be a few inches between the port and the back of the trunk, hopefully it's enough space. I'll finish the box tomorrow, I have a lot of filling & sanding to do.
  13. CorNut

    updated w/pic. Install finished

    Nice, thank you for that link. That's the type of calculating I'm used to !
  14. CorNut

    updated w/pic. Install finished

    4" overall length flare to flare or the center piece for the 2" port? Being 3 pieces and different sizes has me messed up. I do have a 3" port, I purchased 3" (owners manual actually says to use 3") as well but decided the smaller port would be better since I may not have enough length available to run a 3". Do you know how long the 3" port should be to get the most out of it? It'll be used for rap/R&B. I don't mind not using the flares if there's no real benefit. That may help with having enough length to fit the ports in there. Depending on the length, I may be able to squeeze the 3" port in there if I face it to the rear. The plan was to have both the sub & port to the side but I won't be doing the baffle until tomorrow so that hasn't been cut out yet. I was under the assumption, smaller port=port noise but since this will be in a trunk where that won't be heard, I figured the more airspace would be a better idea. Is that not the case? I went flared since I read the flared port helps with the noise. I appreciate you taking the time to help, I want to make sure I do this right.
  15. This is probably a silly question, but I built a fiberglass enclosure that comes to 1.22 cu ft after the woofer's displacement. I haven't used a flared port before, and even though they provided instructions, I don't totally understand them. I typically use an online port length calculator since I've always done slot or straight PVC ports. Is the formula they give already subtracting the volume the port takes up? I'm confused. I'm including a pic of the instructions, the port itself is 2" ID, 2 1/8" OD but then there's the flares which I'm not totally sure how to account for. This is for a 10" Pioneer Champion Pro: Pioneer TS-W2502D2 Handling: 800W RMS/3,000W peak Impedence: Dual 2-ohm Sensitivity: 89 +/- 1.5dB Freq. Response: 20Hz-150Hz Displacement: 0.117 cu ft Revc: Dual 1.5 Levc: 3.07 4-ohm(series) / 0.76 1-ohm (parallel) Zmax: 68.48 4-ohm(series) / 16.56 1-ohm (parallel) Fs: 34.7 Hz Qms: 14.73 Qes: 0.69 Qts: 0.66 Vas: 6.23 ltr / .222 cu ft Rms: 4.994 N.S/m Mms: 339.19 g Cms: 0.0619 mm/N Diam: 7.9" / 200mm Sd: 313 sq cm / 48.6 sq inch BL: 18.08 4-ohm(series) / 9.04 1-ohm (parallel) Xmax: 11mm / 0.43" Hvc: 45mm / 1.77" Hag: 23mm / 0.91" This is a daily driver, I'm trying to make the most out of what little space is available. If I understand it correctly, I get 5.665 for Lv, which means I need the center piece to be ~1.66" for 35hz, is it that simple?