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CorNut last won the day on October 14

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  1. Space isn't a huge issue, it's for an Escalade but it'd be nice to leave at least some storage space for him. I appreciate the recommendations, I'll check specs/prices after work
  2. I ordered Taramps Smart 3, I was thinking about trying a single Skar ZVXv2 15, would that be too much amp for that single 15? An enclosure for 2x12's will fall near the size required for a single 15. I was looking at Skar as an option because this is a semi budget minded SPL setup but I'm not partial to them. I know American Bass and many others have great budget friendly stuff too. Something with a net of ~4.5cu ft or less is best, less is better. The person whose vehicle this is going in isn't concerned about size/brand, he's trusting I'll (you guys?) make the right decision for him. The more SPL minded stuff isn't something I have a lot of experience with. I've only done a couple sundown SA's, a single ZVX, and a single EVL. All were near RMS, I've never had this much more power available than what's required.
  3. You are so dumb lol. The very first response in the thread was by me with the part # for the Toyota version. Also, do you know what a Line Out Converter (LOC) is? Something that converts a digital signal to an analog signal isn't a LOC. Yes, AmpPro's are vehicle specific, which is why I told you I couldn't just give you a link. Anybody with half a brain, don't mistake this person for knowing what they're talking about. If you want to keep your factory radio but want the clarity of an aftermarket, get an AmpPro if there's one available for your car. Don't take my word for it though, research what an AmpPro is and you'll quickly learn why it couldn't be any further from being a "LOC".
  4. With multiple subwoofers, center port is best. If you have multiple subwoofers with a shared port, whichever one is closer to the mouth of the port will load/respond differently vs the one that's further away. You want the box to be symmetrical so the subs are in unison.
  5. If you go the bass knob with a voltmeter route, I have no experience with it but CT Sounds has one too.
  6. The same logic applies with ported too. It'll be hard to overpower those regardless, just make sure they're getting a clean signal
  7. My subjective opinion for budget SQ are Kappas but I think I'm in the minority when it comes to that, most people dislike their tweeters. Are you planning to bridge, do rear fill or run active up front? If it were me, I'd consider a 3-way component set if it's doable with minimal modification in your vehicle. That typically isn't the case, are you trying to utilize factory speaker locations or going custom? Like previously mentioned, sound deadening is the most important part of a SQ setup. I tend to use Fast Rings in addition to sound deadening, they run you around $20/set. My go-to sound deadening is Noico 80mil, it's butyl based & inexpensive. I'm sure there's better deadener out there but my ears can't discern the difference. I do all flat surfaces in the trunk/hatch & doors, larger flat areas I'll do a second layer. With doing 2 layers it's still less expensive than 1-layer of most the big name stuff. I love SQ but I wouldn't consider myself a full on SQ guy.
  8. They're vehicle specific so there's no single link. I find it hard to believe you don't know what an AmpPro is with how long you've been around. I feel like you're trolling and I'm unsure why. if you're serious about no sarcasm, watch this: I'm still not convinced you don't know what an AmpPro is, but here you go. It gives you an unmodified, full range signal which allows you to set your own crossovers/EQ settings if you use a DSP. My truck for instance, has a factory amplifier. If I tap into the speaker wires with a LOC, anything I connect to that LOC will be limited by the factory amp settings/crossovers. The AmpPro allows me to get the data signal that goes to the factory amplifier, it converts it to an unedited analog signal you can use in the form of RCA outputs. It's definitely not a LOC, it doesn't convert an analog/speaker signal to a lower voltage RCA signal. It gives you as clean of signal as any good aftermarket head unit, the only difference is it won't have the features an aftermarket head unit will have until you add a DSP. It's not as convenient since you won't have on screen crossover adjustments etc., but it's functionally just as good if you don't mind making your crossover adjustments via the Rockford DSR-1 app or whatever form of adjusting is required by the DSP you choose. .
  9. I don't understand your sarcasm? Some cars have factory crossovers, fake engine noise etc.. Are you making fun of me for saying an item that removes that stuff as being a clean signal? If you feel like there's a better word than "clean" for what I'm describing, good for you.
  10. You fuse for the wire near the battery then fuse for the amp(s) near them. The best method for me is a fused distribution block near my amps. Something similar to this: http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/distribution-fuse-blocks/sp/bassik-2-way-10-to-4-gauge-fuse-distribution-block/ If you're only running 1 amp, a basic mini ANL or similar fuse holder will work fine. If you have KnuKnoceptz Kolossus 4awg, it's rated at 150A so you'll fuse 150A near the battery, if you have 2 amplifiers, one 80A and one 50A, you'll do a distribution block near the amps with an 80A & 50A fuse. The wire's fuse doesn't have to match the max draw of your amplifiers.
  11. The Kicker CXA amps aren't correctly rated at 1 ohm for some reason. The new CXA amps are 1-ohm stable but they underrate them by putting the 2-ohm numbers/specs on 1-ohm. Check video dynos of the CXA amps at 1-ohm, you'll be amazed. I've installed one of the CXA-800's, it easily pushes a Sundown SA-10 at 1-ohm. The CXA amps aren't perfect, they have a fixed subsonic filter and you have to buy the bass knob separately which hurts the value. I've bought a few CXA's, they're a great amp for budget projects.
  12. In most cases I'm partial to brad nails & clamps. There's never splitting issues, and in the end it's the glue that does the work. A time I prefer screws is some short ones on a multilayer baffle since they can bring the pieces together where clamps can't reach. MDF is a good material for enclosures. I prefer to work with Baltic because the dust is less toxic and I don't break my back lugging it around, but in the end you'll get a better result with a properly built MDF enclosure. Keyword properly built, MDF requires more bracing but it has better dampening than birch.
  13. Are you able to get behind the speaker? If you use a 9v battery to do quick pop test or connect it to another source it'll narrow it down. If it pops/works, then your wiring, source, amp or crossover is to blame. Typically, it'd be blown or there's a wiring problem. Do you have a multimeter? If it's not blown, I'd look at your wiring.
  14. Most systems I do aren't for me, I just enjoy installing. This setup is costing under $500 for a 5ch amp, sub and mids (front Infinity ref. 6x9 components & rear Infinity 5.25 coax). After the cost of a box it'll be right at $500. For what they're spending, I think she'll enjoy it.
  15. I ordered the incriminator i12
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