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About CorNut

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  1. It's hard working with small boxes. My port is too small, it was a compromise between port size and net volume. In hindsight, that might be part of my problem since I was too stubborn to raise my backseat on a (at the time) brand new truck. People that ride in my passenger seat are blown away as well, the box itself looks like a bench for the backseat unless you know what you're looking for, it catches people by surprise. Certain notes do get vent noise, I'm ok with it but I'll do things better next time. I'm thinking when I get a new truck, I'll go forward facing port if it has adequate port area, if not I'll try to do a rear facing slot port in a nonrestrictive way if it's possible. It's hard doing under seat boxes unless you go sealed but that's limited in its own ways.
  2. If I don't double baffle with a recess I'll use a recess ring behind the baffle so it'll still have that flush look. I didn't design the box I'm building, I'm torn between following it to a T or whether it's overkill for my application. It's going in a small hatchback so I'm hoping to conserve storage area but only if I'm not sacrificing performance. It'll occasionally need to be removed but I'd rather deal with the weight and loss of additional .75" storage space if there's a performance benefit. I may not be able to do a recess ring anyway, I'm getting the wood tomorrow and I'll test fit as I build. The SA 10 has a 6" top mount depth so that may make the decision for me.
  3. This is what I built for my silverado, my port is side firing on the driver's side, driver is down firing on passenger side. The bass is night and day better in the driver's seat compared to front passenger. Do you not have that problem with your current box? I'm typically the only one in the vehicle, at least my seat's the better sounding one. It sounds great on both sides but the driver's side sounds amazing. When I upgrade trucks again, I won't be doing a side port. http://www.southpad.com/silverado
  4. Are you saying I should double baffle? I'm wondering if it's necessary, I'll do it if it is but I'll conserve the extra .75" of hatch space if it's not.
  5. I'm building a 1.25 cuft @32hz for my SA-10, I'm planning to recess it and trying to decide if cutting a recessing ring would suffice or would the single 10 benefit from a double baffle? My box has a single vertical and horizontal brace in the middle of it. My amp's (Kicker CXA800) birth certificate says it's 862w. I like the idea of not holding back but this is going in a Cruze hatchback daily driver and space is limited. All wood is 3/4" MDF
  6. I'm installing a monoblock in a hatchback, its factory battery is located in the hatch 3' from where I'm mounting the amp. I'm trying to figure out if I should still ground to chassis like I always have. I've seen other threads with this question but the ones I seen were referring to their second battery that's in their trunk.
  7. I have a 2016 Silverado which I assume is the same or similar to yours. This down firing box didn't require lifting the seat but it took a while to build and it's limited to shallow mount subs.
  8. How am I just now seeing this? I have a 2016 Silverado, I did a single down firing RE Audio 10 under my back seat. Here's a pic with the seats folded up so you can see the box I built. I'm keeping an eye on this thread for updates, great job.
  9. I read elsewhere a good 1 cu ft tune is 32-33hz with a subsonic filter set at 28hz. The amp I ordered is a CXA800.1, its birth certificate says 862w. I'm not using a DSP, I'm tapping into factory wiring and planning to use the amp's adjustable high pass filter and its fixed 25hz subsonic filter. My main issue is the fixed subsonic filter, is 32-33hz still a good tune or should it be lower because of that? Music is rap/R&B/Soul/hip hop. I want to protect the sub and while I want SPL, SQ is the main focus since the amount of power paired with the SA-10 should be plenty loud regardless. The factory radio is GM's Bose setup in a 2018 Cruze hatchback. Watching a video online, it looks like the factory amp's input I'm tapping into is a variable voltage signal with a flat signal. The mids and highs sound decent but it lacks bass. The non hatchback Bose package has 2 rear deck 6x9's as its subs, I guess it sounds decent but the hatchback has a single 6.5 in the spare tire well which is worthless IMO.
  10. What's the box's volume? Do you know what the box is supposed to be tuned to? Is that port 12x1.5 or 12x2?
  11. I'm leaving the factory wiring, vehicle specs say it's a 130A alternator but I read online (random person, grain of salt) it can peak to 180A. My amp is a Kicker CXA800.1, its birth certificate says 862W RMS which is where I'll be running it at 1-ohm. I have some uninstalled Knu 4awg OFC from an old vehicle, will it suffice for big 3 and the amp run? The monoblock is all I'm installing, I'm tapping into the factory radio for its input. I'm guessing it's fine but asking just in case, I have no plan to upgrade the system in the future.
  12. I've done a lot of research but WIN ISD confused the heck out of me, as in not usable. It looks like Torres is something I can learn, I'll keep reading/playing with it. Is 8(w)x1.5(h) for a port decent or should I do 8x2? I can do wider too, that's just going with the12-16" port area per cu ft rule. If I can do it on the side I can do as much as 12.5" tall after top & bottom wood thickness, length hopefully won't matter if I can offset the sub enough that it doesn't interfere with the port. I think the port would subtract about .2 cu ft volume to put me right at 1 cu ft. I can also place the sub near a wall with a vertical slot on the other side and run that along the baffle away from the sub, I'm not particular on orientation or worried about symmetry. I just hope the port can be ran in a way the sub's top mount depth isn't an issue and I can keep the box shallow. How does this look, would 12.5"x1" be better?
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