Kevin M

I got the plexi in the mail today. I will mirror a couple build pics here on this and my build thread as I go along. May be a while though.

Appreciate it bro.

Thx for the responses guys. I knew it was something I had to try. I got two 9x12 pieces. It was around 44 bux with shipping. Soon as we get some weather in the 50's it's going down. lol maybe 60. You guys will have to help me on the led thing. I want to find a way to have the led's pulse to the music. Is there any way to do it?

There's some tracks on Hell's Pit that are pretty bass heavy. Same for the ringmaster album. I'll listen to a couple cds tomorrow and see if I can find more.

Like it says I have this idea and I need a little help on the fabrication side of it. Below is a picture of my rear doors. I used some material and stapled it to the wall and glassed it effectively sealing the sides of the wall. Once I add a couple more layers glass and matte I can sand it and cover it with carpet.. While I was thinking about that I figured wouldn't it be sick to have a piece of 1" lexan on either side of the wall that allowed you to not only see the subs but through to the other side of the wall. I hope that makes sense. The lexan itself is pretty cheap. I planned on using a piece 8x12. The whole project will cost maybe 50 bux. If I use a level and measure the cuts right it should be identical on both sides. The plan it to take a 7x11 piece on either side out of the wall. Build a mdf trim baffle that will house the lexan and use modeling clay and fiberglass to finish it.Then I can paint a 1" strip around the lexan and use gasket tape around those edges. Is there a stronger clear plastic? Will 3/4" be enough? Any help is helpful lol. Does this sound like a crazy idea?

I looked at what you want and I think you are looking for a 3-way system right? Here is what I would do to get a 3 way. Tweeter http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=275-070 Had these in my car this summer. Sound really great. Midrange http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=285-020 Midbass http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=290-306 I have a 10" version of this in my door http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-1088 And here is the crossover. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=260-156 This would work for you too. All the drivers are within 1-2 db of each other.

It happened a while ago and everything that got damaged got replaced. No worries. Everythings' Irie

I tried wmm for over 2 hours today, when I go to save my project, it says the source file cannot be read. But it can obviously read it enough to let me make the project, just not save it.! Idk? Thanks for the reply! You could always load them into the software as a different kind of file. When I make a vid I have to take it from the ipod and put it into Format Factory (Freeware) Then it will work in wmm.

I was wondering why nobody posted. Guess you guys are the first to watch it all the way through. hahaha

They came out really great. Now we need an installing the battery video. lol

Is this what you have looks like. The 265 is a component set that uses the same midbass driver. I would check to see if the tweet matches up to the one in that comp set and if it does you can buy a pair of the passive x-overs that go with the set and you'll be golden.

You'll ned some sort of x-over whether it be active or passive. Active can be at an ampp or you can contact rainbow directly and see if they recommend a passive setup. Typically you want to cross over an octave below the drivers drop off. whether it is the drivers Fs or the midranges drop off at higher freq. Give us the model no. of the speakers and we can help you sort it out.

You mentioned it was a 6.5" right? It is most likely capable of playing both midrange and midbass freq. Did they come with a x-over? The person you bought them from should be able to tell ya what cutoff points to use. Some midranges play cleanly to up to 5500 while others much lower. Look them up online and find the specs for em' You need to know the capabilities of each driver before you get a x-over. Using a passive x-over from another company will have different slopes which could damage your speakers.

There are a ton of them to choose from. Beyma, selenium, B&C, jbl.... What size can you fit? Location? Budget? What midrange and tweeter combo do you have? You don't want them to shout over the mids. We can give you a better idea with answers to those questions. If you are willing to go the extra mile and do some fabricating I say bigger the better. I run a 10" midbass and I just love it. lol This is it... http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=290-322

What you are talking about is a passive system. Do you have a comp. set with a x-over like I showed? What speakers did you buy?

Active is modifying the signal before or at the amplifier. This typically means 24db/octave or higher slopes. They work really well in getting the most out of your drivers.Steeper slopes can mean increased power handling and higher volume, but not always. Active allows you to adjust the freq. range of the x-over point which gives the ability to mix and match (Tweeters/mids)to find the sound you prefer. You can use an amplifier or exterior x-over to accomplish this. If you run an processor like an ms-8, bitone, etc. Passive systems are changed after the amplifier. They use a series of coils, inductors, resistors to model the signal of the tweeter/mid/midbass. Some of these also have small adjustment points for the mid or the tweeter for personal preference. See pic below. While the output of the drivers can be adjusted their x_over points are fixed. This is from my old 2-way alpine comp. set You can see that the the x-over itself has an input for the midbass and a tweeter. This is a two way system. It consists of four speakers and two crossovers. A 3-way system has a dedicated midrange along with a midbass and tweeter. Different companies have different x-overs but typically the midbass will play from 60 or 80hz (can be lower) to perhaps a 1000hz. The dedicated midrange usually picks up here and plays to ~5000hz and the tweeter takes over from there to 20k. The slopes in a passive system are usually 12db/octave. They say and I have repeated that passive x_overs rob power but it is most likely never going to be a real concern for the average install. If you decide on a 3 way system, placement of the drivers becomes even more important. Typically you would want the midrange and tweeter to be as close as possible but it all comes down to preference. What is important is that you get the pathlenghts (Distance between you and the speakers)as equal as possible. This will create a more solid soundstage that isn't skewed to the left or the right. When this isn't possible people use T/A and adjust the drivers output to arrive at the same time in millisecond adj. One isn't better than the other. I have heard a custom Passive setup that blew me away. I can say the same of Active. I run active because it allows me to experiment with new speakers and now that I bought some ID horns they are a necessity. I could literally write 20 pages of info on this so my advice would be to read alot and listen to some passive and active systems and 2 way/3 way systems. Talk to the owners and pick their brains. After a few months of this you should be able to decide on what you prefer.

Watch and enjoy

He says he does 152db on the termlab but I haven't seen one video confirming this. I love the power wires under the floor mat but on top of the carpet on the passenger side. lol

I would focus on the frontstage and not worry about rear fill. A 6.5" comp set would work if you can fit it. It all comes down to preference though. Try it with and without and see what you like best.

If he has a Malibu like mine he has a ton of space in the trunk. You could do a 15" no problem.

what that his woman died? i think they kinda needed to she was holding him back from being Dexter. Yeah they did need to do it but it didn't make it any easier to watch. lol

I got messed up after season 4. lol That scene at the end killed me. It was real hard to watch after that. I've seen all of season five, I guess I'll have to watch 6 now.

The outside is 2x4's as you can see but the inside is 3/4"mdf and I have around 80 ounces of resin in the wall so far.There is no seams on the inside for air to escape from. If I were to do it again I would've set them on the bias and used more for even more strength. The baffle is the thinnest part of the wall at 1 1/2". I really didn't know what I was doing so I overdid it.

I don't like the idea of drilling a bunch of holes in my wall to run wire through and plan on using some bolts and ring terminals and I was curious if there is any impedance change using that method? Would you guys recommend stainless, brass, etc?

I would imagine that cd's will probably die off. Due to storage capability and size. Itunes/ipod has made them unnecessary for a lot of people. Which would you rather have an 6 ounce ipod or 10 lb. container of cd's? You can't scratch an mp3. And with a FLAC player and lossless recordings you have cd quality in digital format. It's no mystery why all these music stores have shut down. Soon all the new cars will have usb ports and places for flash drives. Built in hard drives with a terabyte of storage. I wouldn't put much faith in radio (FM) either. Pandora, xm, and sirius has more or less made it extinct. Who wants to listen to the same six songs on heavy rotation anyway? lol