BigPimpin91

Nope, LoL. I remember my first experience with baffle flex. I was like The Fuck is that? Glad you got 'er fixed and you're happy with it.

I made this one real quick for ya. I'm pretty sure it's like 44-34hz. http://www.mediafire.com/?wd8d6d6yc3h73he

Not really. You could make a 50hz tone and slowly highlight individual portions of it and change speed but you'll still have the instant effect of note change versus drop.

When I first got into the C&S game I was using Audacity. It's way fuckin' hard and time consuming but possible. Just look for peaks in the song where hi hats or snares hit. And measure the space between the two. The counter at the bottom will tell you how many seconds. Memorize that number. Then find a portion you want to chop. Highlight the amount of time you figure in the previous step and hit CTRL - X. Now leave the cursor where it is but use the pointer finger to drag it over the equal amount of time and hit CTRL - V. Voila!

When too much power isn't enough. XS Power

Honestly, best course of action is to take it to the A/C place. And this is also a probability. If your fan isn't keeping the condenser cool, you'll have bad performance.

Yep, fill on low side. OK, I was just making sure you weren't running an R-12 system. Mixing different types of refrigerants is EXTREMELY dangerous. Were talking about shit exploding.

It may be overcharged. Most automotive A/C Systems usually take anywhere from 1.5-3lbs of refrigerant to be full. The gauge was most likely low side pressure. What Year, Make and Model?

No problem man. Not too much in there, but hopefully you can take something from it.

40lbs of pressure, or 40lbs of refrigerant?!?! LoL Here's a paper I wrote up for my A/C Class. Not sure if it will help you, but here it is, nonetheless. http://www.zshare.net/download/90145857b7071329/

One thing people forget to to do when replacing the compressor is to ALWAYS replace the Receiver Dryer/Accumulator. Depending whether or not your system is a fixed orifice tube type or a therostatic expansion valve type makes a big difference in the diagnosis. The only real way to find out what is wrong is to take it to a MACS certified technician and have him hook a set of manifold gauges up to it. Follow your A/C lines around until you come across a component that looks like a vacuum canister and look to see if it has a sight glass on it. Look to see if the stuff flowing through it looks gray or bubbly.

Thanks for the love, guys. Feel free to try this out.

Genuine - Tell Me Do You Wanna http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fVSefVsSD6w

Check the link I posted in the first post. I believe one or two of my songs are used on the official Bass Wars CD. And since you need some tunes, here's a place to get a ton of them.

Werd.

56hz FTL. A minor glimpse of 42 here and there, but I think I'll pass.

Sure will. I currently run my 2 3k's @ 1Ω for daily. Of course, with the car off they'll eventually drain the batteries enough to start causing them to go into protect. (Know from experiencing this more times than I'd like to admit.) You got lucky. Mine would tease you at 0.5Ω. "Okay, WOW, JESUS, Shut off. Sombitch.)