bmxscion

So for me since I have a JBL MS-8 processor I could use this on all my speakers to find the optimum points to set my crossovers at, instead of just using the spec sheet from the manufacturer? Is this kind of like the Dayton Audio Test System (DATS).....? Link here-----> http://www.parts-exp...tnumber=390-806

you gotta pay to play.....your talking chump change to many setups around here. But i would say get the best you can afford, and always plan your system for easy upgrades and expansion.

I'd call the cops on you too and then I would watch for them to leave and bump my shit for a few.......LOL, J/K...that is not what the cops should be utilized for, but you should do testing where you won't piss anyone off....

That does answer my question and makes me realize I really need a new HU. I can't play burned cd's on it...that's how old it is. Usb in a car was not in existence when I got this HU....Clarion DXZ535... Thanks.

I still can't believe that no one has anything to say...over 100 views and nothing in a week. Maybe someone will eventually contribute something.

Has anyone used a DD-1 to do a set-up like this?

I have a 220A Mechman Alt on my 05 xB. It is awesome, but I still need to tweak the mounting a little b/c the belt does not ride the waterpump pulley 100% right and it is kind of squeaky and noisy....but it puts out nice solid power for sure...

I don't use the HU in my system for anything other than "if" I need to play a disk, and for the main power on/off. All of my music played is either from my HTC EVO 4G via 3.5mm plug or a Sansa MP3 player connected to the MS-8's AUX input. I have copied the DD-1 disk and the CC-1 disks to my phone. I tried to see if I could know what the max volume on my phone was by taking a 3.5mm to RCA cable to a Y-splitter into the DD-1 and proceded like I would for a HU...Not enough voltage for a signal in the DD-1. My question is that since the main volume I use for my system is from my MS-8, how would I find the max volume by using the MS-8 in this set up? I have two 4ch amps (RF 551X) and one mono amp (RF501bd). I have one of the 4 ch amps running my 6.5" door speakers with channel 1 and 2 bridged to the left speaker and 3 and 4 to the right. This is where the CC-1 comes in to properly gain match which I haven't done yet. Any suggestions? My HU does not distort at full tilt either FYI....Thanks in advance.

I have a Sea Sonic X-850 PS for my new build. I haven't seen it yet as I am still over seas but it is sitting at the house waiting for me to put it with the rest of my new build from scratch.

I just placed an order for a CC-1. It will look good in my tuning kit next to my DD-1...order number 100001615. Sign it please, and if you have a sticker or something else to toss in that would bee cool. I'm about to come back for a break from this overseas deployment soon and it would be cool to have a sticker or something....Thanks Steve!

All SUPER nice cars...any more pics of the Scion?

i will be posting my new computer build here soon too when I get back in the states. It is a pretty sweet setup as well. BOLO.

I just ordered the 40" one from ebay. Going to make finishing my sub box and amp rack much easier. Thanks for the link rogue.

no free shipping like the pre-sale of the dd-1's? I want to get one but am not going to be able to use it for a while until I get back from a deployment. I may just have to order one so it will be there for me when I get home. I only would need it to gain match my RF 551X b/c I have ch 1&2 bridged on the left midbass and 3 &4 on the right. I want them to be set perfectly. I won't be using it for crossover settings as I am currently using an MS-8 for my processing. We will se tomorrow...

Is that an S&M Dirtbike sitting there? Looking good...

No, they are the complete opposite... they are big massive frames. The shallowest sub I intend to make is the SD-2 line -- based on the 4-spoke which is one of the shallowest "conventional" frames available. I haven't seen much talk about the SD line since they came out. Am I the only one that has done (not finished) an install with the SD line? ">http:// ">http://

That's a clamp I picked up at Harbor Freight for like $6 or $7. It is a little PITA at first but it did work very well. I did not use any screws or nails when assemblying the box. I did use one long screw to help hold down the amp rack mounts just because of the angle I couldn't clamp very easily. But of course, I did pre-drill first. I forgot to get a shot of the whole thing in the car with the end caps on before I left....

Here is a quick vid i made sitting here in the desert while deployed. I didn't get a chance to finish it before I left. This is my first attempt at a youtube vidoe, so bear with me. Any questions about the rest of the system just ask. I may be kinda late on responses since the internet is kinda spotty here, and doesn't always work.I couldn't get the video to show up on the screen, so I am just going to add a link.

It's not that I made the wires too short. Just redoing the entire back end of the system layout and putting the seats back in. Here is the previous set up: Here is (was) the back side of the box:

It's coming along. I forgot about the part where I have to extend the wires to compensate for the movement of the amps more rearward. I guess the easiest fix is to just make new grounds for the rear two amps and keep the other 551X that is under the seat along with the MS-8 grounded to the ground dist block that is on the rack under the seat. My power leads are long enough to make it to the back, but not the grounds. I am about 4" short. I will put up some pics of how it was setup before this box so you can see how much different this is. I had no back seats before with a wood floor that was like a cargo area. This is in a 2005 Scion xB.

I've got more of SQ set up. All HAT frontstage, 3 way active with a JBL MS-8 processing. I really liked the way my RF HE2 sub was in a sealed box so I figured I would try another sealed box. I can always make a ported box later, but I think it will sound good with a sealed.

Here is the underside of the baffle so I can use 1.5" long 1/4 x 20 allen bolts to mount the sub. "> Here is the under side of the hurricane nuts. i put a dab of construction adhesive on them to help with them slipping in the holes over time. "> Here is pretty close to what it will look like when finished. The baffle and amps are just sitting there for the pic. There will also be another panel on top to flush mount the sub and cover the amps. The outer wall that will hold the cover over the amps has not been put on in this pic. "> Here is the inside lip and outer wall drying from the glue. "> "> Here is the amp mounts before gluing them down. Here is the baffle clamped and glue drying. I used Tite Bond III to glue everything together. NO screws or nails excpet for one screw to hold each amp mount down but that will most likely be removed tonight after the glue sets up nice. Should I use any poly fil inside the box, or just leave it bare wood? Inside dimensions are 17.5" x 17.5" x 6". It should be just about 1cu ft maybe a little less minus driver displacement and that ring on the bottom side of the baffle. Other than that any suggestions or critiques....?

I got my SD-2 from fed-ex today! It looks awesome and smells like fresh paint and glue. I have a sealed box that is about 1.6 cu ft. Would that be too large to "test" this sub out in usng a RF 501bd amp to run it? Looks like I will be going to get a sheet of MDF to do my new install today. Thanks for the fast shipping and excellent customer service Jacob!

Could the pre-orders see shipping soon and possibly delivered by next weekend?

I just got back from O'Reilly's and I had to have a set of Gates belts delivered from another store waaaay on the other side of town, so I can't get them until tomorrow. I figured I would get the power steering belt as well for my 2005 Scion xB so that both belts are fresh after putting on my new Mechman 220A alternator.