IBleedMusick

:woot:

I will take that crossover off your hands right now

i already have both them units witch are for sale also. but what else you guys have? Still got the AVIC F900 you said you also had for sale?

Liked it...good luck

Congrats Steve

Thanks will do as soon as I get everything installed I will take pics and post them.

oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo moment damn now I get it. Thanks a lot now I can proceed with my damn build going to go and pick a junction box from AutoZone tomorrow ordered my relay from darvex.com and got some rocker switches from Kawamall.com so I'm set for this part of the install thanks again for your help much appreciated.

I have to take a look and see if I have any extra slots and okay so from the relay to the junction there should be a 10a fuse and from the junction to the remote turn on's there should be 10a fuses as well for the amps? and I can throw on another 10a for all of the accessories? and yes I am running 14 gauge to the trunk as well

Not sure I followed everything you wrote. 14ga is plenty for a remote turn-on (assuming that you're using it to only switch items on and not power anything). Remote turn-on leads should already be fused from the Headunit. Always use RMS ratings, max numbers can be highly exaggerated and lead to the wrong size fuse. Do the amps already have fuses? If not, their manuals should state what to fuse them at. Amps aren't 100% efficient so they will input more power then they output. Therefore you have to take that into consideration when fusing. Do you have a multimeter that can measure current? You could use that to measure how much current the LED strips are pulling. Depending on how many you're running, LEDs use very little current so without knowing what you have, a 5a fuse is probably fine. Where is this relay sourcing its power from? A distribution block in the trunk or a seperate power wire from the battery? This is strictly for the turn on all of my power wire is fused correctly. I just needed to know if I need to fuse the turn on lead from the junction box to the amp turn on's. I am running the relay from the 12v wire that would power my head unit so power is only there when I am actually using the radio. So lets clear this up I need to turn on my 3 amps, power 8 led strips and not have my car electricals go crazy in the process. I order the relay, junction box and 14 gauge fuse holders. Now What?

Thanks for the explanation so that I understand you correctly I am running 14 gauge remote wire for the amp turn on's should I do my math using the MAX on the amp or the RMS if I use the max the would be 900w/13.8v = 65amps do I get a 60 or 70 amp fuse mids/highs. 1000w/13.8v = 73amps do I get a 70 or an 80 amp fuse. Did I do that correctly? As far as the lights go how do I determine the power rating the trunk lights were cheap led strips from ebay no info provided just says 12v led. I haven't gotten the ones for under the seat yet. My final question is how large should the fuse be from the #87 relay to my 12v source?

Actually I think I understand what you're saying I had a basic grasp of whats going on just wasn't completely sure my only question now is did you run fuses in between each accessory on the junction post and if so I know what size to get for the lights but how big should the fuse be for the amp turn ons?

done*

Thanks for the help I will order the stuff and post pics once I get the job

Nevermind about the junction box I found one on Amazon but all I need are instruction on how I need to hook this up for everything to work with no issues. Detailed instructions would be great I am pretty good about following directions I just need to get this all hooked up so I can continue my install as planned.

I was thinking about a mercury switch for the trunk lights or wiring them to the wire that detects the trunk being opened but I still wanted a toggle switch for instances when I don't want them on at all. It sounds crazy but I have times when I want people to just the amps on with no other lights at all

Kenc210 that would be great if you could post pics later I want to do this the best way possible

I am going to be doing the same thing soon so what i did was get a relay and junction box post splitter and wire it so you could run everything to the splitter and it will turn on when your radio does. Pic for your viewing as far as the volt meter i would run it to the battery that you ran your amps to. although i am not to sure on the volt meter That's a great idea but where can I get a junction box post splitter from and the relay?

Wut up people, Here is the deal I am doing my Civic's FLI Audio build and I have reached a point where I need to start adding the trimmings before I complete the main build. As far as trimmings go I am installing a volt meter, trunk lights, lights under each seat and lights on the mids/highs amp. So here are my questions: Where do I wire the Volt Meter to get the best reading from my car when it's on with the engine running and when its on without the engine running? What wire in the car should I hook the trunk lights up to so that they are on when the car is running and when I just have the key in the ignition listening to music? Same question for the lights under the seat? The lights for the mids and highs amps will be hooked up to the remote turn on at the amp so I have my answer for those. All lights will have toggle switches on them just for my own craziness when ever I need to cut them off I like to know I can turn them off if need be.

How can I get my hands on one of those D'Amore Stickers? Are they custom made?

Don't forget to pick up a 9V battery. LOL Yep picked up a pair last night tuning my first system on Friday then my car once I finish building it, lol. I have quite a few more to do this should be fun.

I just got mine haven't had a chance to put it to work yet but I have five cars that will be getting it in the next few days I will be including videos of each one being tuned. I'm so damn excited like a kid in a candy store.

You can go with the Zeus you don't need the amp to be exactly what the subs are rated in fact a little extra breathing room for the amp is good. If tuned properly using an O-Scope or DD-1 the amp will never send more power to the subwoofers then what they can truly handle.

Back in the day Phoenix Gold used to be one of the heavy hitters, then they fell off for awhile like every other big name they got money hungry and with cheap with their builds they were bought by AAMP of America not to long ago (If you don't know AAMP of America they own JL Audio, Stinger, PAC, SoundQuest and a few others) and they scrapped the old line and reinvented what the product use to mean. Their newer stuff is amazing the SD amps are beautiful, do rated power and their subs are solid they definitely resurrected themselves with their newer stuff. I heard a system recently that had two 12" R3's on a Ti1500.1 and PG mids/highs on a SD500.4 and I was rather impressed.

Here is a pic of what I am referring to. Look at the red circle.