252chevyboyz

Got the recone kit ordered earlier today so now I'm just waiting on it to arrive so I can put it together and have her back playing again. Getting excited to finally hear one of these things. @wrmcs: I got some card stock ready to trim up and use to centers gap. Card stock or white printer paper? I will just keep layering it in the gap until snug then once the glue is set on the spider and surround I'll remove it. Then rough up the cone only where the dust cap will touch it then I'll glue the dust cap on and wait another day for the glue to dry

Well those 2 paths are my guaranteed paths cause I don't want to work somewhere and be unhappy working. I'm going to enjoy my career. Beig a chef is a lot of moving from place to place working on holidays even Christmas and such plus a lot of hard work. So far I havnt found anywhere in the audio field that I could make a career in like 30 year career. I wish something would come a lot in the Udio field so I could have a career in audio. Update on recone status: Money is still set to clear 9/11/12 so on Tuesday I will send the money for the recone and hopefully I'll have it ready to put in the box and start playing by this coming weekend. -James

Well I appreciate it man and it's not really that long of the process if you have the funds to buy everything at one time. I work and live from pay check to check so i bought the woofer then bought supplies to prep it for recone now I'm buying the recone kit and adhesives. If you the woofer, parts, and all it may be a 4-6 day process depending on how much you worked. I also have a passion when it comes to audio and would love to find a good job in the audio world haha. It's either that or I go to Charleston, SC to become a gourmet chef. Back up plan is always go to Appalachain University and find something to major in. Would rather stay on the audio/chef path though

@wrmcs: I wish the recone kits had the option to order another metal ring to back on the spider. I am going to lay down some extra adhesive on the spider to hold it down like it originally was. Soon as the money clears into PayPal I am ordering the recone kit and then I will recone it once it arrives. Any tips for reconing? @big: haha I thought about some off the wall color just for the sake of having the only one that color. If I have to recone it again i will take a vote on what color the basket will be cause I'll probably go with the same stripper I used this time since I don't totally like the look the dupli-color bed liner

It was glued down rock solid I can say that. SA really has some solid equipment so it seems. I guess that's why I recall seeing a video of 2 v2's on a NS1. I just took my time with a smaller flat head screwdriver and a hammer and got really luck I didn't break through the spider landing. I'm glad good luck was on my side haha

I appreciate it man. I should have just bought an angle grinder and ground the landings clean so I could have kept he stock paint but at least I wont have to worry about it getting scratched or scuffed. Hopefully the party is just getting started on this woofer haha. After the recone comes building boxes for it. I got one already built but I'll pick up another sheet of MDF and make another box or two. Tractor Supply might have some check valves for air compressors if the RTV doesn't seem to work

Got the spider and surround landings sanded today and wiped them down with laquor thinner just to make sure there is no oil. I am still awaiting the money to clear in PayPal then I'll order the recone and cooling spacer and have her playing. Top landing sanded only: Both landings sanded: How I sanded it haha. It works though.

She's a beast for her size. I'll be glad to order the recone and it playing. I'm ready to test the current box I built for it and build a few more. I plan on having 2 different slot port boxes and 2 aero port boxes. Already got one aero port box but i will mess around and tweak. I appreciate it though man.

I appreciate there Chevy. That's what I thought but didn't know if there was some type of terminal to put the wire in and then solder. Glad that's not the case. I can will get some audio technix or Rockford 8ga OFC and use that for the leads. Just to make sure I go I right in my head just strip the 8ga and overlap the tinsel lead and he 8ga then solder them together. Also I would put heat shrink on the solder joint of course. Then just tie strap them like my AQ 18 leads. **edit** I will have some updates on sanding the surround and spider landings in the morning

Well I got all the tape pulled off this morning before heading to work. It came out ok I guess but I think getting it powder coated would have been the best way to go. There is just no one around my area I know of that powder coats stuff in my area. That might be my next venture if this bed liner scratches off or something for some reason.

I can come across some wire for the leads pretty easily as long as the local shop has it in stock. The thing that confuses me is how to connect the 8ga to the tinsel leads. While the funds come in to order the recone/adheasive I'm trying to get everything planned for what I'm going to do and trying to make sure I know what I'm doin haha. I'm just not a big fan of push terminals.

Has anyone ever thought about tryin to put direct leads on a SA-8? Like solder the end of the sub lead to a piece of 8ga? I'm a total noob at building woofers but wondering if it is possible?

I picked up some bed liner for it. I was thinking about the engine block paint and then some clear but I figured the bed liner may hold up a little better to being scratched and scuffed. It's going to be taken in and out of quite a few boxes. I plan on building no less than 4 different boxes for this sub since the boxes are so small it's fun to build them compared to the 6ft^3 and bigger boxes

Prepped and ready for paint. Went over with some 120 grit sand paper very lightly and the wiped it down with laquor thinner to remove any oils from the sand blaster or from my hands. First coat on

I just didn't have one and no funds to buy one. A sander would have been great. I guess I'll just use some spray bed liner on it since the roll on would be impossible to get in the small places. I think it will look ok with bed liner on it. Plus bed liner is easier that painting it white and putting a clear coat on it.

I finally got the glue removed and the the outer metal ring. One thing I got to warn yall about is the basket is no longer black haha. The commercial strength stripper was so strong that is not only removed the glue but the paint also. I wasn't too happy about this. At first where the glue remover ran down on the paint it took the paint right away. I couldnt have a sub that had strips of paint missing so now I am in the process of stripping all the paint and sandblasting it. After I get it sand blasted completely clean I reckon I will paint it black like it was or I may paint it white. Bed liner is also an option to cover the basket in. How should the basket be painted? -White -Black -Bed Liner After the first scraping and wipe down: After the first run of sand blasting:

Well this morning I was emailling Jacob and he said the metal ring can't be used in the drop in recone kit so he just suggested pry it off an that is just what I did . Much easier than stripping the epoxy. Now I just got to sand and prep all the surfaces. Then later on this week I'll order a recone. Props to sundown audio for such great QC. Now to strip the rest of the adhesive. That was left over

I'm not really trying to be funny by could I take a handheld mapp gas torch to heat up the glue and the scrape or wipe it off? I just dont know if SA put any plastic parts on this woofer. I am guessing the cooling spacer between the basket and motor would melt at a pretty low temp. Is there anything else that may melt? I could use propane since it burns cooler than mapp gas. -James

Ok I got the basket off and got the push terminals off the basket. Can I soak the basket in something to remove the glue without stripping the black paint? Is there a way without taking a mini hand held torch to melt the glue off?

Anyone know the price of a new basket? I was trying to keep cost down cause I could buy a used working one for around 90-100 and wanted to have less than that is this one. I dont know why there would be such an excessive amount of glue on this woofer

Only reason I asked if they came with it was because the guy in the vid had one and didnt say if he payed for it but I thought you had to buy them separate. I was planning on using this basket if I could. I will have no trouble getting the area to glue the surround to nice and shiny but I cant get this spider glue off to save my life. the soldering gun just wont heat it up enough. I am thinking that the glue is either locktite 5min epoxy or CA glue. On all the youtube videos it seems like none of the woofers have all the glue around the spiders

Do i have to put a whole new basket on when I recone it? I didnt think SA sent baskets with recones

I ordered this one from Jacob over at SA. Saw it on the yard sale thread and couldnt pass it up. So i guess that is how it is suppose to be? I cut most of the spider out and got the coil out but still havent gotten the screws out which I am researching now. I'm trying to find a good YouTube video to show how to do it. Here is what I have so far: The soldering gun wont get it quite hot enough to completely loosen up the glue around the screws but I am on YT now trying to find a vid that will me how to do this The screw with all the scuffs around it is the one I tried heating up to remove

Sorry for the crappy pics ya'll my this iPhone isnt very clear at all. Also I think that may work if I can find my soldering iron in the garage. What about the rest of the glue around the spider landing?

Side shot with spider and screws