Mediarocker

All cameras internal mics suck. I don't care what anyone says. They are not for recording high quality audio. You need a camera with an external mic source and that easily costs upward of 800 bucks, much less one with an EQ that will keep you from clipping your audio source.. You could alternatively record to a device using a high quality mic and match up the audio and video manually in an editing suite... Nevertheless there is nothing in that price range that's truly a "quality" audio camera. There are a good bit for around 200-300 that have sick video... but the audio mics always are lacking unless you have an external source. Sorry.

You need to get an H4 conversion... they sell em for those Jeeps.. but I really hate the idea of running HID's in reflectors. There's some trucks doing that around here and they blind the crap out of me with their fricking 12000K bulbs... they can barely see with those hyper blue HID's so they aim them up more or add more lights to blind everyone with.... Retrofit projectors or don't do it. Chances are if you are putting them in it's because your housings are fogged to hell or suck at putting light on the ground. Remember HID's put out A LOT more light than normal halogens. Even those with unusable light like 8000K + And bad or fogged housings will scatter light everywhere blinding people or pissing them off. If you want usable color temp go 4500K to 6000K. 6000K has the blue without loosing too much "Usable Light". Anything beyond this has less "usable light" than a Halogen bulb. Those high color bulbs look nice, but that's all they are good for. Look into how "Yellow" light is better for our night vision than "Blue" light. Now if this is for your show truck or car.. or if you don't plan on driving at night.. then cool beans bro do it to it. I think those blue lights look pretty cool. (at a show.) I use DDM for my HID's. I've had a good experience with them. Hope this helps.

I'm sorry and I don't mean to be a downer, but I cannot believe that the 18V alone did this. At least not through your explanation of "stronger spark" Reason is, the Coil runs off of 12VDC (13.5 actually), and you are having the 18V stepped down. Stepping it down does not give you the advantage of running the 18V. (I know, you can't run your 12VDC coil off of 18VDC without shortening it's lifespan or affecting it negatively in some way. It may or may not harm it, but lets go with the safe guess) Now if the 18VDC stepdown is supplying a higher Amperage to the coil, then I could entirely see how this (stronger spark) would be possible (however since I do not know the full specifications of your ignition system as well as the amperage supplied before and after I cannot say particularly in your case.) But I would like to point out that perhaps increasing the efficiency of the charging system may have had greater effect with lessening the load on the alternator and reducing drag on the accessory loop. (therefor increasing mileage) Increasing the voltage, will do nothing except limit voltage drops below 12V, which obviously would have the ignition system running optimally at 13.5V. This is good, steady 13.5V provided through the step downs (should) provide clean efficient power to be utilized by the computers and ignition system. However, regardless, low amperage delivery will have a negative impact on the ignition system having full 13.5V or not. I hope this makes sense. I can't really find a better way to explain this. In order for your hypothesis to be correct, several factors must be maintained. -Voltage must remain at optimal values. (obviously easily met.) -Amperage draw must be met or exceeded -Ignition system must be of better than or OEM spec to actually deliver a stronger spark (higher capacitance and charge delivery) because an old coil will not benefit from greater amperage delivery due to its lower than spec amp draw. -Wires and plugs must be capable of benefiting from the "stronger spark" as a resistive plug or wires will not deliver gains from a hotter ignition system. Again, I'm not trying to cause problems or anything. Just delivering my opinion. Nice job on the setup tho. One question, why do just 18V? why not do a full 24V?

double post fail

will definitely kill small animal those bean bags go in with unforgiving force ... have you seen jackass ?? and depending on where you get hit those can break ribs, if you are hit in the kidney are you could die from that hit head shot will most likely cause brain damage, arms could possibly break bone. those bean bag guns are not something to be taken lightly where you can say i can shoot some friends and be shot back. they are non lethal at the average but can be deadly very easily.

Interesting. I would've thought that they wouldn't want that kind of answer. I'm applying for concealed carry in the coming months, To be honest I wouldn't drop a guy unless I REALLY had to. But the chances are if a guy breaks into my house he'd better be well aware of the danger that lurks because it's either him or me and if I think he's pulling/pointing a gun he's getting dropped. 1 shot. Anyway this thread isn't about that. My post was in pure jest marinated in sarcasm (If a burglar is in my house, no way am I taking chances). So let's move back onto the topic at hand.

Okay, you are not firearm savy. 12gauge been bags are capable of disrupting human organ function. It would obliterate a small animal no questions asked. And as for home defense, why would you WANT to have a non lethal form? Being completely honest I don't know anything about beanbags. I know about firearms (not everything, but enough to hunt and go to the range as well as weapons safety).. but not beanbags. And I was joking when I said use it on a cat. I kinda figured it'd tear it a new one. (I mean really, I'm pretty sure anything coming out the barrel of a 12ga would be lethal for small animals even at range. Thanks for confirming my suspicions) Despite being if I see that cat shitting on the porch again...... Damn internet doesn't get sarcasm through it too well.

Dunno about those...I know some of them are illegal to own without a special license because they can fire real grenades too. But I'm just going off what little I know about those things.

I can sorta see why, Non-lethal alternative for rodent (neighbors effing cat ) control in addition to non-lethal home defense... shoot em in the face

Driving around Alabama with my Cobra I have a RIDICULOUS amounts of false positives. It's super annoying. The only reason why I put up with it is I'd rather get a false than not be warned. My Cobra's range has started to suffer through the years and usually when I get an alert... it takes some quick thinking to react. So I too am in the market for a new one and have gotten to test out some RDs that my friends use. I'd recommend a Beltronics RX65, it's about 300 bucks but one of the best at what it does. It also supports POP radar detection (the kinda gun that they can pull the trigger on and it's INSTANTLY on and when they release the trigger it's INSTANTLY off. (which is how they try to defeat radar detectors. (The idea behind it is that if they can turn it on and off, that those with radar detectors won't get adequate warning- if any. Chances would be if your RD is going off that you've already been gunned, but often times your detector doesn't even go off.) This unit is completely VG-2 hidden (radar detector detector- Say that five times fast.) which is one of the reasons behind it's price. It has DSP so false positives are minimized drastically. But if you need to save more, the Vector 955 is around 160 smacks and is damn reliable. It too has POP detection and all the other nifty features of the RX65, but is not as sensitive, and more liable to give false positives (however I've noticed Beltronic units don't give as many and have a HUGE range in comparison to my Cobra) Midranged is the Vector 995, Same features, more range than the 955 but it comes with KU band like the RX65 (not in use here in the states as far as I know.) and POP Detection. And with Digital signal processing it eliminates the majority of false positives. (when driving with this and the RX65, I never had a false positive where my little cobra was always going off.) If you live in an area were radar detectors are *ahem*... not allowed.....check out the STi Driver. Complete radar detector detector immunity. Personally though, to keep the look of my interior clean I'm thinking I might just drop a bank on a Escort 9500ci and put it the ashtray of my Mazda. It'll be off the dash and I can make a nice clean install. Whilst not calling attention to thieves. In addition to putting it in the dash where they can't get to it. Hope this helps out a little! Oh and just be aware that Driving with a Radar Detector on a Federal Installation is a Felony (if I remember correctly- regardless its something you don't wanna mess with). So that means turn it off and stow it when you're going on Army, Navy, Air Force, whatever bases. They are also illegal in D.C.. Some states govern their use as "legal" but if you get pulled over for speeding they will ticket you for having a detector as well. It sort of falls under the "Radio Scanner" laws that make it a crime to use Radio Scanners in committing crimes. Check your local state statutes.

If you call the Police and tell em your bike got jacked and where it was located, wouldn't that constitute "Probable Cause"? allowing them to search?

I love Zippos... never could do that cool trick my friend could do...

And that's just the way I like it

SICK!

I woulda gone balls out and made a 40A run man