CleanSierra

You're a dealer? WOW. You ever had any kind of system before?

Your posts are starting to hurt my brain. Please keep reading as much as you can. Take advice from those that give it. Don't overcomplicate things either. It seems like you're a fan of "theory". Throw your theory out the window, a lot of things on paper in a perfect world, do not apply in the environment of a vehicle. You don't have to run any brands that are suggested, but the ONE piece of advice I'll share with you is TAKE your time. Take your time planning your system, take time buying items if you need to. MOST importantly, take time designing and building your sub enclosure. The shittiest of subs can sound decent in a great box. Don't attempt to throw "4 12s because SURELY 4 will get loud" in a space they would work best for 2 12s. I can promise you, all the mistakes have already been made before you. Ask around and try not to make those mistake by listening and staying open minded. Sorry for the long post. There are a lot of new guys that come to this site that get no advice because they are unwilling to listen. There are also guys like yourself that have a chance to learn IF you're open to it.

Do you even know what gain matching IS regarding amplifiers? Your answer tells me you don't.....

If you were gonna run 2 separate amps, then yes, Dual 4s will work. If you wanted to keep wiring simple, get all 4 subs in D2 configuration. You won't want 2 on one and and two on the other, you'll have to gain match. Do you know how to gain match?

Your amp has no part in this problem I'm sure. Your connection to your ring terminal seems to be the issue. I got my little torch from Harbor Freight for like $10? Butane was only a couple. You need to get those connections fully wicked(flux through to the core of the wire). Once you have a solid connection on your terminal, see what happens. If you still have a problem, that place where the wire is cut is a concern for sure. Does that keep happening to ALL the wires you're adding, the cut?

You know how much gain you're gonna get with that extra couple hundred watts on that setup? Probably not much. And just to throw it out there, the Fosgate T500bd is gonna birth out at around 700-800 watts anyway. I'd MUCH sooner put Fosgate power to THAT sub that crap Power Acoustik.

I see 120 amps of fusing. Are they really claiming 2700 watts out of this thing? For 200 bucks I'd say it may be a DECENT 1200 watt amp. OP if you indeed want to run that amp, make sure your subs are all D2 coils, that way your final ohm load can be 1 ohm so you can get the most out of that amp.

Powerbass 400.2?

If it is, I'm thinking ports up, subs up to avoid choking the ports out. If you try port back, you might have to sacrifice depth, which is sacrificing airspace.

Is this the car?

A Fosgate T500 would be my suggestion, but I'm not sure that the price can be found for what you're looking to spend. It would be a solid amp for that sub though.

Not a lot of guys on here know what a pug is, I'm assuming Peugeot? Few have designed a box for one since most of us are in the United States. Are you sure the dimensions you mentioned can actually be pulled in and out if the boot? Sometimes guys get so caught up in measuring as big as they can in the trunk, that they build the box, try to get it in, and realize they just wasted a lot of wood for something that they can't put through the opening.

Here's a couple of mine, not sure if they show the sane area you need:

I am indeed mad, it's going to be braced to hell and back. I realize my port wall mistake, but height is wrong, wat? 1/2 " x 2 = 1 inch 17 - 1 = 16.. lol. How in the HELL do you get a screw into 1/2" MDF?!?!?! I have an easy enough time, even pre-drilling splitting 3/4" MDF. 15" subs+ 1/2" MDF seem like a terrible combo in my opinion.

Joe will be by soon to give a "design"......

Sorry to hear about the fail on that box. The craftsmanship was amazing.

It's easy to think you can until you have a BIGGG heavy box and you're trying to wrestle it into the trunk. I say build it, and let's see.

With the dimensions you're at now, can you even fit the box in the trunk? I'll bet not fully assembled at least. Building a box INSIDE of the trunk can be done, but it's a pain in the ass.

Not port number, that box is for aero ports if being used. He is referring to the Number of common port walls box. Edit-In miscellaneous

Jesus dude, that many reserved? 1 or two would have been plenty I would think.

You gonna "Negative 500" this now, to be safe?

The whole point of the 150 post count is for good reason. It's to avoid guys that like to "go around" the rules.

you're always so helpful with this kind of threads... Unless aero ports are needed....

What kind of vehicle do you have that you plan on putting this system into? Also, you KNOW how much those things would cost right? Retail, right at $1600. If you're looking for a Crazy 8 build, then go for it, airspace wouldn't be much for 8. Do you plan on putting some serios power to them? Even at RMS ratings, you'd need 4K in wattage. Give us details about vehicle and overall goal. You could probably be impressed by a couple of badass 12s to be honest. Airspace for the 8s TOTAL would be around 4-5 cubes(.50-.625 cubes per sub). 3-4 cubes for a couple of 12s would work well too.

RMS on tat sub is 700 watts. You're thinking about running more than DOUBLE that to it? I realize in the real world with impedance rise and voltage drop they won't see the true 2000W a piece but still.To answer your question though, if you wire in series/parallel, you will achieve a final ohm load at the amp of .75 ohms. Just wire all the positives together and go to the positive on the amp and the same with your negatives.