CleanSierra

I'm in Highland. Are you from NW indiana too? @ CJ appreciate the help man but I got designs from Joe X and built the box a couple weeks ago. ill post some pics up I need to create a photobucket account You didn't get a "design" from Joe, you got a copy and pasted guess. Who knows what the enclosure will perform like, because he sure as hell probably doesn't...

Btw, no idea what "ust icking" means...

You don't seem to care about blowing equipment, you only seem focused on how to get your amp to put out 4000 watts. In the REAL WORLD(with voltage drop and impedance rise) you will NOT see 4000 watts. Who knows if the amp is truly capable of the 4000 anyway... A proper box would be one that was built to be efficient and have minimal rise FOR the vehicle it's built for. Proper electrical is HO alt, runs of OFC 1/0 gauge that is run correctly. The wire needs to be grounded correctly for the LEAST possible amount of resistance. Resistance=Heat Heat=loss of efficiency and power. Battery power for capacitance is crucial. A couple Group 31s and a biggest battery possible on the hood. To answer your questions though: No one can predict or tell you exactly how your setup will perform or what kind of voltage drop you may see. No one KNOWS what kind of watts your amp will push when all is said and done. The only thing we can tell you is to build your system, as good as you can. THEN if you're so curious about how many watts you're pushing, get a DMM and a clamp meter and measure for yourself.

Beautiful square waves

What kind of electrical are you thinking about running if .5 ohm is what you're thinking. If I were you, I'd be smart and either get dual 1s or dual 4s and run and 1 ohm. Don't buy dual 2s and run .5 ohm. You starve that amp for voltage because your charging system can't put out the current for half ohm, and poof goes the amp(and other components potentially). The BC is a great amp, but just let it do it's work at 1 ohm. Unless you are seriously prepared to back up your electrical to run .5 ohms. To me, 250 watts isn't worth it to go from 1 ohm to .5.

Birthdays gonna birth..... Have a good one sir, you deserve it

I gave you an answer, it was appropriate. You are asking questions that are valid and you are receiving responses that are also valid and justified. Will the amp like .5 ohm daily, who knows, probably not. Not a bunch of amps will like .5 ohm daily. I have no idea about you skills, previous installs, or knowledge. I'm left to assume by the way you can coherently get your point across. Your question was answered simply, DAYS ago. I was very helpful then, as I will continue to be. Good luck with your install, whichever route you take. I'll be happy to give advice if needed.

Once again, you are not REALLY going to get 3000W with voltage drop and impedance rise. If you don't have the electrical to back up .5 ohms don't do it, or you're right, equipment will fail. Good electrical means high output alternator, few batteries, Big 3 upgrade and knowledge when to turn the volume down.

You're a dealer? WOW. You ever had any kind of system before?

Your posts are starting to hurt my brain. Please keep reading as much as you can. Take advice from those that give it. Don't overcomplicate things either. It seems like you're a fan of "theory". Throw your theory out the window, a lot of things on paper in a perfect world, do not apply in the environment of a vehicle. You don't have to run any brands that are suggested, but the ONE piece of advice I'll share with you is TAKE your time. Take your time planning your system, take time buying items if you need to. MOST importantly, take time designing and building your sub enclosure. The shittiest of subs can sound decent in a great box. Don't attempt to throw "4 12s because SURELY 4 will get loud" in a space they would work best for 2 12s. I can promise you, all the mistakes have already been made before you. Ask around and try not to make those mistake by listening and staying open minded. Sorry for the long post. There are a lot of new guys that come to this site that get no advice because they are unwilling to listen. There are also guys like yourself that have a chance to learn IF you're open to it.

Do you even know what gain matching IS regarding amplifiers? Your answer tells me you don't.....

If you were gonna run 2 separate amps, then yes, Dual 4s will work. If you wanted to keep wiring simple, get all 4 subs in D2 configuration. You won't want 2 on one and and two on the other, you'll have to gain match. Do you know how to gain match?

Your amp has no part in this problem I'm sure. Your connection to your ring terminal seems to be the issue. I got my little torch from Harbor Freight for like $10? Butane was only a couple. You need to get those connections fully wicked(flux through to the core of the wire). Once you have a solid connection on your terminal, see what happens. If you still have a problem, that place where the wire is cut is a concern for sure. Does that keep happening to ALL the wires you're adding, the cut?

You know how much gain you're gonna get with that extra couple hundred watts on that setup? Probably not much. And just to throw it out there, the Fosgate T500bd is gonna birth out at around 700-800 watts anyway. I'd MUCH sooner put Fosgate power to THAT sub that crap Power Acoustik.

I see 120 amps of fusing. Are they really claiming 2700 watts out of this thing? For 200 bucks I'd say it may be a DECENT 1200 watt amp. OP if you indeed want to run that amp, make sure your subs are all D2 coils, that way your final ohm load can be 1 ohm so you can get the most out of that amp.

Powerbass 400.2?

If it is, I'm thinking ports up, subs up to avoid choking the ports out. If you try port back, you might have to sacrifice depth, which is sacrificing airspace.

Is this the car?

A Fosgate T500 would be my suggestion, but I'm not sure that the price can be found for what you're looking to spend. It would be a solid amp for that sub though.

Not a lot of guys on here know what a pug is, I'm assuming Peugeot? Few have designed a box for one since most of us are in the United States. Are you sure the dimensions you mentioned can actually be pulled in and out if the boot? Sometimes guys get so caught up in measuring as big as they can in the trunk, that they build the box, try to get it in, and realize they just wasted a lot of wood for something that they can't put through the opening.

Here's a couple of mine, not sure if they show the sane area you need:

I am indeed mad, it's going to be braced to hell and back. I realize my port wall mistake, but height is wrong, wat? 1/2 " x 2 = 1 inch 17 - 1 = 16.. lol. How in the HELL do you get a screw into 1/2" MDF?!?!?! I have an easy enough time, even pre-drilling splitting 3/4" MDF. 15" subs+ 1/2" MDF seem like a terrible combo in my opinion.

Joe will be by soon to give a "design"......

Sorry to hear about the fail on that box. The craftsmanship was amazing.

It's easy to think you can until you have a BIGGG heavy box and you're trying to wrestle it into the trunk. I say build it, and let's see.