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armykyle1

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Everything posted by armykyle1

  1. If I ordered mine off the site on the 4th last month will mine still ship with the pre orders on the 5th(today) or so? Signed would be cool too. The refund is really cool, I just lost my job but dunno if i want to give this up lol.
  2. it was tough to find lol but thank you! I am too lol
  3. I likes! Deff would be cool for my front living room since its empty ! are the lights programmed orrrr?
  4. well I'll just post up my thread count but fully tested the amp, working like a champ!!!!!! put a bassssss knob in toooo
  5. Ok well I was checking the power fets on the amp after I pulled it out. There ended up being a grounding issue with them but I couldn't rule out which one it was so I pulled the whole board out of the case lol. Looks like when the board was replaced by Atomic they neglected to to smooth out where an arc had accrued, which cut through the insulator and grounded it out I think. I'm waiting on a few things to dry then I'll put the amp back in, but it appears the ground is fixed. Here's the pics see the small cut the arc spot smoothed it out with some high grit sandpaper the nasty spot on the on the insulator, got it cleaned up put some silicone in there too everyone likes silicone right?
  6. electrical is in my sig, spp1200 and hc2000, big 3, stock alt, final load is 1.2 Question is why am I getting positive current through the chassis of the amp. I've triple checked all grounds, amp is grounded to the batt, there's no loose leads in the case. and why is the current going up to 100v+ ? you take the sq root of your rms and trun your gain up till you get desired voltage at the speaker outputs. mine being 50 but its set to 48v now.
  7. Come on mighty smd forum. Show me light
  8. Checked it all with a diff dmm and got the same readings. Pics of the board and stuff. Is this suppose to be like that? This is with the amp on. Amp off it reads normal. 12.8
  9. drove around for a while, amp played fine with no issues. Played white clouds for a min, no issues except voltage drop lol. I got some 9v batts for my other dmm and I'll do more testing tomorrow. still looking for input
  10. EVERYTHING IS HOOKED UP RIGHT! So I took the old hifonics out and I'm putting the at3000.1d in I got a small arc when I put the ground in its respected terminal. Seemed normal but the amp hasn't been run in months. After I set the gain with a dmmm, I shut it back down and started putting the speaker wires in the terminals, when I was screwing the neg speaker output down I accidentally touched the chassis and the same time and got a small acr again. Anyway finished hooking it it all up. When I power the amp on the protect light comes on for a brief moment(like a split second) then the green power light illuminates and powers up with no issues. I played it for a few minutes, cranked on it a little bit and it preformed well beyond my hopes, so I turned it back down and went to screw the chassis down to the back of the back seat. behind the fabric covering is metal and once the screw got threw the fabric I got a massive arc and the subs popped then continued to play. My other amp was hooked up the same way with no issues. I also noticed when I touched the amp and part of the car I'd get a little shock. So I double checked everything, and its all wired up right. so with the amp running I put my dmm on dcv-20 and put the positive probe on the amp chassis and the neg probe on a ground and got 1 on the read out. Puzzled for a moment I put the dmm on dcv-200 and then 97 came on the read out with the pos probe on the amp and neg probe on the ground, then I put the neg probe on the power lead off the batt and got 88ish. if I swap the probes I (neg probe on the amp) I get -97ish/-88ish. So I powered it all down and went to checking again. Well the 97/88 started dropping. After leaving it alone for a few min I put my dmm back on dcv-20 and put the black probe on the amp chassis and red probe on the power lead I got 12.98 on my read out which is normal. So what the hell is going on? The amp plays fine, it didn't get warm at all, no popping, no smells. Sorry for the long read, just trying to provide as much info as possible. also this amp is the same as the saz3000d here's pics. my atomic amp saz3000
  11. yeah, but then again I dont rly need or want more than 500-600rms. I 100% be upgrading in the future so all those big numbers dont rly mean anything to me. The Brutus makes almost double the power of what im looking for. And with stock electrical of a small car, that worries me. Even with the gains turn down. All I'll have done is the Big 3. well with the gains set right you wont draw more than you need. With the amp @2omg it'll be more efficient thus drawing less current. I think the hifonics is the best route to go. I've got two of their amps, the higher end ones but I'm very happy with them. You get a lot of bang for your buck really. yes the MBquart and hifonics are very close to the same and ppl that push one or the other will argue all day one is better. There are slight differences but not much. Almost all of hifonics amps are CEA compliant now too. So you really can't go wrong
  12. I can't believe it lived that long being plugged in! holy shite sweeet ass new dust caps too
  13. cool video, nice tease. but the whole bass knob clipping thing. With the bass knob full tilt you shouldn't clip, unless you didn't set the amp right to begin with. build log looks good. at least you're not like some goones going full tilt out the hole clipping the whole way till magic smoke arrives
  14. clean car, good install. No special box foe de submoofer? Looks like he's got some pretty on the engine, any goodies inside, please don't just say a big cam lol. My fav year of the camaro
  15. good choice, a little over rated but great stuff for the price
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