Notoriousj76

I am lookin to do quite a bit of Glassing for reinforcement on my first wall build.... Autozone is the only place I know to buy it for $50 a big jug, other than some stuff on Amazon that was really cheap, 15 bucks for the same size big jug. Is there such a thing as bad resin? Anyways, where are you guys getting your resin and for how much? Thanks

Ive not had much luck with tuning .... Last box I did was 6 American Bass dx 12's in 11.9 net internal tuned 33hz with 174in2 or port area and it simply would not play anything under 35 without losing all efficiency. Given the subs are low excursion, low BL, and average F3..... Seems like it should have been able to play lower. Not to get off topic though. How do you design your enclosure to play in certain frequency ranges if so many things change from paper to real life application?

So..... a big giant port will raise my F3 of the enclosure? Because that does not sound desirable... I know you guys are giving excellent info, but is there any physics behind it to prove any of the lore stated above? Most of all... will it even make a noticeable difference when applied to a real world scenario?

So .... I take it as it does not matter? long as it's at least big enough?

I know you can have too little port area, less than 15in2 per 1ft3..... But often times I see ultra large ports in walled builds. I'm currently designing a 4th order for 2 18s and want to be able to get in through the loading wall to mount the subs. Ported side looks like it's gonna be 12ft3 and a port big enough to fit in is at least 300in2. Just wondering if it would do anything other than help control excursion maybe from restricted air movement, if that's even the case. It just sounds logical to me.

id just ask man Worst they could say is no ask some popular companies and see what they say

i would suggest a brake upgrade.... All the extra weight will cause problems when you go to stop lol but some good shocks would provably be the only thing id suggest

Basicly those are hot spots If those are not new rotors then they might be slightly distorted causing high spots that will heat up more than the rest of the rotor this would cause the discoloration Do you have a shake of anything while braking?

Any experienced box builders wanna throw in their 2 cents? Really really want some input here. There will be pics when I get around to building if that's any incentive.

Bump

how about this one? More reasonable looking curve and volumes. Cabin gain picks up around 50 so it should still be fairly balanced. Edit: The box rise says that I'll be rising to almost 4 ohms at 32 hz.... will this make cut all my power at that freq?

Specs on the box are in the picture. On the right there is the ported box I have mocked up to compare to the 4th order on the right. 45 cubes is a bit large sounding though for net volume. I'll keep plugging and taking suggestions. thanks Edit: For lower tuning, shouldn't the sealed side be the large half? This is what I have heard at least.... also what kind of port tuning should I shoot for? I'm getting very peaky curves that are not looking so good in the upper 20s, which is where I want things to be strong still. Anything in the 28-40 hz region is where I want my meat and taters spl to come from.

Hows this look? I lost output in the bass I dont care for..... But as you can see it's peaking at 30 and stays flat.... Have almost no box rise either untill it gets down in the mid to low 20s

Getting situated here with my money, but trying to get seriously low with as little money/power as possible. The Plan: 6 American Bass XO 15s Sundown SAZ 3000 Excessive Amperage 200a alt 2 C&DUPS12-540MR batteries As for the 4th order. This will be my first, and my first wall as well. I would appreciate it so so much if some of the experts would view this and help me out here. I'm trying to get a ground pounder that is as low as possible. I am NOT after burps, I'd much rather shake my vehicle apart and make hair fly. So please, If your experienced in building walls/4th orders especially, can you help me out. Ive been playing around with WinISD and cant come up with anything too crazy but compared to the ported. Ive done nothing but research on 4th orders for about a week and I guess I'm just missing something. Unless I make my numbers absolutely ridiculous I cant get a curve that looks desirable. The reason I'm wanting XO's is their fs. But is my goal achievable with that Sub? or am I just being silly by thinking that factor alone will make for a ultra low setup?

I tried to go somewhere yesterday and my battery is dead..... I have a stock alt too and I think my voltage drop over and over and over again killed my battery.... I would drop some dough on a 150 amp alt. I'm saving for one now. Lucky for me I have a kinetic 2400 red battery that was in the back so I'm using it to jump start myself now. :/ lifes a bitch then you die... get an alt dude.

I'm trying to get some help building one actually.... Is it all trial and error? I don't have the time or money to build and rebuild a bunch On the ported side though should you go with the recomended specs for a regular ported box, minus the tuning though.

Phase is just direction the woofer will travel first.... it's flips the sound wave upside down. So imagine your subs on punchy bass. The speakers fire out of the box rather than in, so if you flip them around without messing with wires or anything they'll be firing into the box. I probably just confused you more but I'm not that great of an explainer lol.

I have a buddy that has an SPL W 12 and it slaughters the lows. Just built a box thats 2.5 cubes tuned to 32hz (yeah kinda big for a single 12) however it flexs shit tons and sounds really really good. He has a Power Acoustic 600 watt 2 channel amp. The subs are dual 1 ohm coils so his is wired at 2 ohms, making it that much more impressive. The sub is beefy. 340 oz motor and 4 inch coil wound with 18 ga round copper. It's a low sub, even the aluminum dustcap adds mass to lower it's res freq. Hope I helped ... Oh yeah. the subs 150 bucks new I think. Check amazon. Awesome budget woofer.

I had an HCCA 15 in roughly 5 cubic feet tuned to 28 and it was really low but no so much loud... barely peaking 130 but about to shake my van apart. and that was only on a 2000 watt brutus. Also, the mid bass sucked big balls. It had less output at 50 hz than my single type R 12 in a tline.

alrighty then.... I have 2 15s sitting around. they are nightshades with re sx motors and one blown coil each.... I have no idea how that happened but it's my best guess as to what happened before I got them. So new plan. Keep these 15s because I know they are rather loud. 6 cubes net at 32 hz or 37 hz? I really really want super low bass. I'll start building after I get a couple opinions. All my other boxes for myself have been epic fails in design and I'd rather not mess up again :/

this whole box building thing really gets me Does the size of the box affect the tuning? I was always taught that, generally speaking, the bigger the box, the lower the freq extension without losing db. Doesnt a larger box make for a flatter freq curve too? This is why I like to ask

So, I'm building on a budget, which is rather small. I'll be doing a lot of saving but what are your guys' opionions on 1 18inch Fi BTL fully loaded on a SAZ 3000? I'm in a 91 astro van and It doesnt like to let me hit the lows. I plan on building an 8 cubic ft net enclosure tuned at 30 hz. Regardless of the vehicle, do you think it'll shake your guys out? As long as it's loud and low I'm not that concerned about spl, I just want it to sound better inside the cabin. My main debate is 1 really good 18 or 2 average 15s..... either way I'm only runnin the sundown amp. Saving for a 200 amp alt and a couple of big batterys currently, no way I'm hookin anything up without proper electical. Throw some ideas at me, anything you think will make it louder.

HELP PLEASE!!!!! I added a baffle inside the box and retuned the port. Now I'm running 9.5 ft3 box internal WITHOUT any displacements Inside Dimmensions are 48.5 x 20 x 17 = 9.5 ft3 Port Dimmensions 5.25 x 17 x 15 = .75 ft3 Subs are inverted (yes, properly wired)so no dis. there Totaling 8.75 ft3 net According to WinISD that Makes my box tuned @ 34hz ------I did everything you guys suggested by cutting down box vol. even being forced to tune a little higher and still can BARELY get 130db------ Amp is Hifonics Brutus currently 2 15 inch custom subs with RE SX motors and Nightshade soft parts Single voice coil subs cuz I got ripped off. Big 3 upgrade Stock alt Kinetic 2400 red in the back Line driver and gains all properly set, no clipping, amp crossovers tuned at the box tuning and so forth. WHY the fuck am I not setting off car alarms?!? I'm so pissed I cant even descibe it. Somebody please explain this madness before I blow my speakers in frustration and just Sell everything I have and fucking give up.

So you can wire a 2ohm sub to 1ohm on an amp? If so would it be the same power as a 1ohm to 1ohm? Again... I'm new at this. You can wire any sub to any amp. Just saying that if your sub is wired at 2 ohm, your amp will be at 2 ohm as well. The reason that it's less loud is that level of resistence cuts down on the total power. However, it tends to sound a little bit better sound quality and keeps your equipment from breaking because it doesnt get as hot. Just be sure not to try to get loud on 500 watts @ 2 ohms cuz then you'll end up clipping signals and blowing something anyway.

So my options (without building another box) are get 2 more 15's . or swap mine for some 18's that love lots of volume? Either way I'm running only one sae1200 once it gets repaired. Not a lotta power for something so large but I like to go balls deep when I can and I could with my box, although it backfired lol.