Joe X

OP posts his dimensions in another thread: 35"w x 11"h x 24"L.

Going by your amp power the SA makes sense if it's good and D4.

Considering the sub you have ANY of them.

Some drivers work in big enclosures, 2 digital designs subs can work in 5.5 cubes net.

What vehicle?

You can give them the full power of the amp (Sundowns are underrated) given that your electrical is adequate and that you make use of the subsonic filter. But as I pointed out previously if you wire 3 sa8v2 subs you are not going to be able to match the optimal impedance of one ohm and that will cost you output but with 2 10" you can wiring everything in parallel (dual 4 ohm). Now if you can provide 2200 [email protected] ohm at the 3 8" (maybe with a 2.5KW amp) then you may get some more output from that setup but it will be more expensive to do.

You may be able to fit 2 12" and if those are nice ones probably that's your best option.

That is usually a disadvantage of L ports but not in your case as the box is deep, you can always help more placing the subs as follows (remember the other pic is onla an assembly guide not the actual box): You won't have unbalanced loading like this.

You will better take advantage of amp's power with 2 subs than with 3 subs.

Ok here is a suggestion within your dims for 2 SA-10 ported: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 34.5 Hz Vb = 2.6 ft^3 External Height = 11 in External Width = 35 in External Depth = 20 in Port Width = 4 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front & Back = 35 x 11 Left & Right Sides = 18 1/2 x 9 1/2 Top & Bottom = 35 x 18 1/2 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 14 1/2 x 9 1/2 Extension = 6 x 9 1/2 Assembly guide (generic dimensions):

He want it for 2 10's. And oh @Joe, the box you designed for me slams thanks. Right! damn, he was requesting a 3 sub box in another thread. Glad the box did it for you, BTW clean and solid build you did, checked your thread.

Just place the box towards the rear, you have 35D and the box is only 21D, problem is that 40W is really tight, don't think it can be reduced. Placing it to the rear doesn't help. I measured out the clearance from the trunk lid to the hinges and it's only 15 inches. Would it be possible to move the subs closer together and reduce the overall width to 39 inches? I think with that the hinges will grind against the box but it will fit. I modified the above to fit 39"W i would recommend to do your own drawing of the baffle to make sure how you are going to fit port and subs before cutting any materials.

Ok, check this carefully: the whole cutlist has been adjusted to reflect the changes including the 5 3/4" port, ALSO the pic is just an assembly guide of generic dimensions, I have updated it to show the bracing that must be put in place. If you have further questions let me know.

Your dims would need to be wider and/or to taller to fit 3 10". In a Mustang you should have more than 10"H.

Tschib13 you are being offered an alternative 35" wide just above in case you missed it, here is the link to it: http://www.stevemead...ost__p__2089412

Just place the box towards the rear, you have 35D and the box is only 21D, problem is that 40W is really tight, don't think it can be reduced.

Here is a lower cost Pionner with variable color display: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_42405_Pioneer-DEH-4400HD.html Also features HD radio.

The S15d is recommended for 1.5 cubic feet (sealed) so with 1.815 I think you are in business if it fits.

2162.935 gross internal with 0.75 wood.

3136.5 cubic inches, 1.815 cubic feet but that's external.

You would need 13H for 12s.

Post your max dims, amp, subs models.

Well the cutsheet makes easy for someone to get the job done without any calculations but you can come up with yours, the L port parts need to be done exactly as listed though. Having said that it is convenient to follow the cutlist since the subs will have much better support, also I am not showing the front to back and top to bottom bracing that is needed, if you would like me to update the drawing with that let me know.

Yes, I modified the height, the (updated) 5 3/4 is the port width, the port height or in this case the port depth is given by the box depth less the 1.5 from the front and back walls, if you just cut the parts listed it all assembles as shown in the sketchup. Any other questions let me know.

And a double baffle would also be recommendable if you are willing to go 0.75 taller.