Joe X

What is the vehicle you have?

By going from 15s to 12s you are losing a lot of cone area, even if the 12s are on ported you won't see a meaningful gain in output. Modeling both options could give you a clearer picture. If you do a couple of Sundown X 12s on a 4.5 net box and a 4K+ amp then you will see appreciable gains.

I would use the same brand of amplifier brand you are going to use for your midbass drivers, use a DSP to match time alignment if the location of the drivers is going to be very different as the midbass drivers, also the same goes for the tweeters, same brand of amp. Just bear in mind that the drivers are 8 ohm, maybe you want two sets to lower impedance to 4 ohm per side. As for the drivers themselves, I don't know that PRV build sound quality drivers such as morel and the like, to drive would be SPL drivers to SQ results, if I understand right you need to drive them in their linear region both frequency and amplitude, that would probably be 250-2KHz and 75% of their rated power, maybe you should talk to an SQ specialist. In any case you want to get a high quality DSP, also amp selection involves auditioning, class d amps for mids and highs can be noisy, I would feel safer using class AB for full range amps, at least if you are picking something inexpensive.

Seem a bit concerning to me that those will play midbass pretty poorly. You can see that at 100 Hz these are already about 4dB below baseline. Also note that these are 8 ohm parts most car amps are optimized for 4-2 ohm. As for the amp you should be more specific, any 500-600W rms @8 ohm full range stereo amp that has a high pass filter should work BUT not sure what you mean by best, you want class ab, d, small, SQ?

WinISD do not support slot ports only non slotted, the box pro site I checked only once and tuning was somewhat off, the tritricum calculator is for people that won't use modeling software, if you did enter correctly the data into WinIsd and you got 25 m/s then you are ok but honestly more than 50 square inches for a single 12 sounds high, unfortunately don't have the parameters for your sub so I can't really verify.

Actual numbers depend a lot of usage, you need to factor in amplifier efficiency, mids and highs amp and car services, if you use frequently your system at high volume (only daily, not for competitions) a 220A alternator, obviously you will need to have subs that can take the full amp power, you should also upgrade the battery to deep cycle, your battery needs also depend on how much you usually listen with your car off and how much time you drive your car everyday.

Still the stock connection between your battery and the alternator should be upgraded as a part of a big 3 upgrade. Also try to tap into a signal that carries the sum of the left and right channels or a LOC that will mix left and right for you.

Don't know if you tried to change the jumpers in your JL Audio crossovers to -3dB, that would considerably lower the level they play and maybe you don't need to change anything. Also you could audition the C2, C3, those if I remember right use soff dome tweeters.

You will have to run power line to the amp, if you are going to run 1000W you will need a 4AWG wire, also consider a 10" sub, box size is almost the same size but a 10" is louder than an 8" on the same power. 8" subs exist to be placed in underseat enclosures in trucks because 10s wont fit firing forward.

Specs don't really help, they all look very similar, since you seem to have a dealer near you, you could ask for an audition or go to an event to take a listen.

Even some bass makes a big difference, congrats, if you are like many of us on here you will come back for more.

The C1s has aluminum dome tweeters, probably that's what's bothering you, you can do a number of things, if you liked the mids, you could replace the tweeters with with one of the following: https://www.parts-express.com/search?keywords=soft dome tweeters Ideally you use biamplification to control the crossover frequency and the levels to get the best of a component set. If you don't want to get into mixing components, here is a couple of sets that supposedly fit your vehicle and do not have overly bright highs and are around the price range you are looking for: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_210MAXIM6X/Morel-Maximo-6-MK-II.html?tp=105 https://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB6502/Polk-Audio-DB-6502.html?tp=105 These are mid to lower end components of quality brands which I have heard, polk audio have strong mid bass which is something many 6.5 mids lack and smoother highs, morel are ultra high end speakers some models can cost multiple thousands of USD, Those low end models will not have particularly strong mid bass but definitely softer highs. Check out the full list for your vehicle and research models you are interested in.

A higher end head unit will have 3 sets of RCAs but that would be a different game, you are looking to a $100+ unit, new at least, DSP that let you change settings while driving would be also pretty expensive.

If you want 4 channels fo speakers you ca go 3 ways: 1) use splitters as mentioned above if you don't need FADER. 2) install a cheap LOC in the speaker outputs of the head unit and use that as outputs for 2 channels and use the head unit RCA for the other 2. 3) Get a signal processor like the old clarion EQ7 it goes by many names like this: https://www.skaraudio.com/products/ska7eq-7-band-half-din-car-audio-pre-amp-graphic-equalizer You get from it all your outputs for sub and 4 speakers plus AUX for a bluetooth receiver or whatever other player. It was made by the millions and I am sure it can be had used for cheap like $20-30. See what I mean:

Because those subs are 3 ohm a constant power amp would be nice, I would recommend this: https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/t1000-1bdcp/ It's $599 last time I saw and very high quality amp for your high quality subs. Will look good with your subs. Said that you can use any quality amp in the range of 1000-1500W RMS @ 1.5 ohm.

I am around. It's pretty obvious what needs to be done (more so since you know the specs), 5 cubic feet net, 80 square inches of port area, simplest is double layer 0.75 wood all around, 32Hz tuning. If you want an actual layout or more custom specs please provide a couple of pics, one is the location where the box will be in your car, second a picture of your new amp and subs together.

Congrats a mainstream branded $10 head unit if it works is a good deal, you can get a four channel amp and run two channels to speakers and two channels bridged for a sub, that would make a nice minimal system. If you don't even want a sub and the head unit amp is not powerful enough for your speakers you can get one of those new micro amps that will fit almost anywhere to power your speakers.

First problem is determining what fits your vehicle: https://www.sonicelectronix.com/find-parts-that-fit https://www.crutchfield.com/S-4nQeqPUEZdI/car/carselector.aspx Filter for soft dome tweeter to avoid all those bright sounding options. Most stock head units hi-pass their output to the speakers but if not you can use a cheap microamp to do so, also to improve output if needed.

SD x Xmax only gives you the volume displaced, you can't calculate port airspeed from those two alone, you need to calculate volume velocity which is a complex function dependent on frequency and the operating conditions of the driver that include signal, power, the box itself + others, that's why you use modeling software, do not rely too much on chatgpt which still is a stone age form of AI, it is very possible that AI will kill us all but not just yet.

Post your vehicle model and maximum possible dimensions for a box (HxWxD) to see what kind of trunk space you have. Ideally you want the same 4 cubic feet that already worked for you or as close as possible.

Generally speaking probably avoiding big mainstream names or very well known companies is a guideline you should follow when looking at best cost/performance. The other way is buying used, if you know what are you doing. Sound quality components likely have higher probability of remaining in good condition after ownership than SPL or dialy stuff for example.

Those are entry level subs and will work on a single 6" port, flared if possible. Better than two 4"s which combined port area is less than one 6".

The reduction of the cabin size is probably the most important feature of a wall as it results in an increased cabin gain, that's also why you seal off, you want all that pressure in the cabin.

If your subs are D1 what you should do is get a single monoblock about 3000-4000 W RMS and wire the subs to one ohm and you will make the most of them. Installation will be just as easy. Also very important is the box design that needs to be custom to your subs and vehicle, your subs enclosure can make or break your bass experience and is harder to get right than an amp.

Sure many people have been succesful with those TARAMPS, still there are widespread reports of failures like yours, maybe they have sold too many but I think in the name of saving money they cut cormers, like the infamous loose coils with loose windings that never get fully fixed. I am not recommending that brand to anyone until they mature their manufacturing and design, if it ever happens, I am pretty sure the Brazilian government couldn't care less about the quality what they are selling.