Joe X

Well you have to consider options, for exaample a bit slanted box could be one, also note that the mounting depth is 11.575", you have 12 - 0.75 height to fit the sub.

what tune is this? with the box only being 20 it woont fit without an elbow, any idea how to get all 3 in there? what is the external lenghth for? Look at the Fb parameter it's about 35 Hz and check the external length specification, that means 5 3/4" of the port would be external.

Guys have succeded using 2.3 cubes per driver, plus a large port area, if you pay DD prices you want to get the most out of them.

Sub up is not usually recommended in trunk type of vehicles. you seem to have 12" height.

With aeros this can work: Fb = 35.133 Hz Vb = 3.627 ft^3 Number of Ports = 3 Pipe Port Diameter = 4 Pipe Port Length = 19 3/4 External Length = 5 3/4 This would make a nice daily setup only, the net volume is larger than you would usually find ina SPL box for those subs, your vehicle is large also so cabin gain would be limited.

DD 3512 drivers require 2.5 cubic feet and 40 square inches of port area per sub, if you don't have nearly the specified space better get other drivers if you do post your maximum dims.

The amp seems ok, what vehicle?

What vehicle are you installing this in?

Ok, one thing, use MDF screws specially for the baffle, Titebond wood glue also recommended. Have fun!

it's 33 inches.

It can be done as follows with the alternative assembly method: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 33 Hz Vb = 1.505 ft^3 External Height = 14.25 in External Width = 21 in External Depth = 18 in Port Width = 1 13/16 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front = 18 7/16 x 12 3/4 Front Internal = 16 15/16 x 12 3/4 Back = 21 x 12 3/4 Left & Right Sides: Side 1 = 16 1/2 x 12 3/4 Side 2 = 17 1/4 x 12 3/4 Top & Bottom = 21 x 18 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 14 11/16 x 12 3/4 Extension = 15 x 12 3/4 Same assembly guide as above:

The cutout diameter is 11" so it fits..tughtly, the outside diameter should be around 12.5" so it also fit.. you will have 1/4" clearance each side..very little, in fact I had to go for the all across Width/height baffle for this reason. Damn, haha so the rubber will fit as well on the box? Also, how would you suggest cutting the port for the box? Being that I have to cut through the double baffle and make a perfect retangle box.. Does the port HAVE to be on the double baffle? Rather not cut my port. I use the following assembly style most of the times: But on 13" is not possible, you would almost cut the baffle in two pieces if you tried.

This box simply can't work with your mayhem 12", this sub needs 1.75-3 cubic feet to work properly.. I could suggest you an enclosure for that sub if you wish.

The cutout diameter is 11" so it fits..tughtly, the outside diameter should be around 12.5" so it also fit.. you will have 1/4" clearance each side..very little, in fact I had to go for the all across Width/height baffle for this reason.

Most DC Audio subs work in below average sized boxes, if fact the Pioneer TS-W3002 is recommended for 1.2 cubic feet ported and still gets real low.

That is correct.

So 32.5 in it is if you wish, the port turns as you can see on the sketchup and it does fit that way, the length of the two pieces of wood needed to make the port is what I left you: L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 14 1/2 x 11 1/2 Extension = 14 1/4 x 11 1/2 Since you want to take away 1/2 inch the Extension length becomes 13 3/4 inches instead of 14 1/4, the rest of the cut sheet list would remain intact.

I was just thinking what would Torres calculate and comes out very much in line, take a look:

Okay, then you have your length for the port at 33.75 correct to get to that tuning.. Correct? I'll put up on google the cutout sheets I need and put them together make sure they work, on your sketch it's just a tad confusing for me being that the front, and rear are bigger than the sides.. height wise. Sorry if I'm just not reading something right tends to be confusing for me. I am using be baffle all across width/height assembly style (because your box is not tall enough for the other method), when you place the top sheet of the specified dimensions, it becomes perfectly rectangular and air tight.

Right 11.5 in, find this at the bottom: L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 14 1/2 x 11 1/2 Extension = 14 1/4 x 11 1/2 Calculators have their differences but you are doing a port upwards.

Revised up there for slotted DCL4 12" the double baffle never hurts unless you are much too lazy to cut it.

DC Audio L4 12" slotted port back sub back: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 33 Hz Vb = 1.508 ft^3 External Height = 13 in External Width = 22 in External Depth = 18.75 in Port Width = 2 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 22 x 13 Left & Right Sides = 16 1/2 x 11 1/2 Top & Bottom = 22 x 16 1/2 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 14 1/2 x 11 1/2 Extension = 14 1/4 x 11 1/2

Lots of useful info on building here: http://www.kicker.com/building_enclosures At least go with two dowels top to bottom in the center of width and near the subs, cross brace straight to the bottom through the port where necessary, The port needs bracing as well, you can take advantage of the brace crossing through to bolt it as well. The way you cut the material will determine the amount of wood you will need, get the dims of the sheets available to you and plan your cuts or get help from the seller.

Have fun Hifonics and build it solid with all the bracing shown if possible.

In your boat having the subs aimed skywards won't do any good.