Blackedout

Nobody messes with your car if you tell them straight up from day one not to fuck with it, lean on it, write messages into the dirt on it.... At least they didn't fuck with my car. And if someone does key it, make sure they don't do a halfass job.

It does seem to have a pretty low rated Frequency Response, lower than I think is accurate. Which is a factor to a good sounding woofer. That in addition to a high impedance voice coil, which lowers THD. I'd put a sub with an underhung single 4 voice coil up against the W6 any day.... But that's just me. I've never seen a w6 in a SQ competition. Been to a few now. I think what I'm getting at is that the W6 isn't a successful competitor in the SQ arena, therefor I wouldn't go as far to call it a 'true' SQ woofer. I could be completely out of line though...

SQ isn't subjective. The RTA is what makes it non subjective. The person who posted that threw around the terms, but they really had no basis. The W6 isn't a 'SQ' driver. It's a normal sub just like the AQ SD2.5. When I say normal, it means that there really isn't anything that makes it much different than any other driver.... Other than that 2.75" Voice coil. They both have the potential to sound decent, and they both have the potential to create Sound pressure. (SPL) It is the application (Or box) that you put them in that dictates their SPL or their SQ.

Sealed and Firing in 2 different directions. 2 on the back baffle, 2 on the top baffle.

LOL.... I was working with the box tuning Calc and I missed the beginning discussion. Run your 4 12s off the same amp. Save yourself from making the errors that people have already made. I've seen people mix subs, It isn't efficient. I saw a guy with 2 15s and 2 12s off similar power to my 2 15s and his car wasn't even close to as loud as mine. Louder on the outside and rattled more. But that isn't what I focus on when I'm building.

4 12s wont happen. 3 12s would be to pioneers spec on the subs. 1.5 cubes each after displacement. I'd personally run 2 12s in that box, port back, sub back...

Get some rubber based ca glue and some activator. Clean up the dustcap and scuff it up a little. I use a 6-8" speaker to add weight to the dustcap.

Tell him a different car and about 10 grand to get started. 156 is not a walk in the park.

that ain't no lie. Country all day will kill it for you. Working in retail blows dick.

I'm prejudice to probably 20% of genres. You won't hear me playin country from the 30s or 40s, 50s, classical, jazz (aside from sq testing), hardcore screamo rock... Almost everything else I listen to.

I used to beat on my systems for hours, but now I rarely push a full song before I turn it down and let everything cool off at listening volume. I ran Tripple RMS on a pair of subs for quite a while and its a habbit now to not run things full tilt too long. Then again, I'm also running subs that would be a serious pain in the ass to get recones for and probbaly cost an arm and a leg to get OEM replacements or equivalents. They are aurasound NS15s.

Looks like a burnt fet. Your on the right track. Get someone to repair it. Have them replace all the fets.

Sweet. Looks nice.

My windshield wipers, driver and passenger window, and hood support bar make more noise than my trunk lid. Build is in my signature.

Pi R^2; pi ~ 3 15" cone area: 3 x 7.5^2 ~ 169 Sq inches 2 10s: (2) 25 x 3 ~ 150 Sq inches 19/ 150 ~13% Decrease in Cone area. Would I invest the extra money in a decrease in cone area just to not have to build another box? No. I'd either stay with the 15 (Upgraded to handle a little more power) , go to to 2 12s, or an 18 and rebuild the box. I've seen XLs take 3000 Clamped, which is probably realistic after box rise on a 5000 Watt amp.

My only caveat is that it needs to sit at least 4 with the system in it Blowthrough.

extended cab trucks get loud for next to nothing. A pair of 15s off 3000 RMS and a little electrical work will definitely make you happy. If you get an SUV your money will be paying for gas vs playing with sound systems.

I like my iPhone. No problems yet. Seriously thinkin about jailbreaking it, but i haven't had any issues with it. Always having an iPod on me is nice too.

This was an '07-'08 model. Steady voltage and that extra .3 or .4 helped for sure. That as well as rolling on the bass knob to bring up the impedence.

I ran a zx 1000.1 for 8 months very solid amp. After box rise, clamped power won't be 1000 rms though. I ran the amp at 1 ohm. 2 d4 subs reading 1.3 on a DMM

Glassing over foam takes some skill. You have to seal the foam from the resin or the resin will melt the foam.

Alpine pdx 1000.1 Kicker 1500.1 Jl 1000/1 (if the price is right) All these amps should accommodate box rise and give you a true 1000 rms at most (reasonable) ohm loads. Some other brands you can look into are digital designs, Phoenix gold, hifonics, mb quart, re audio, and most other brands currently made by maxxsonics, as well as Rockford and memphis.

How much volume do you have?

Glad we can Roughly agree on something. Copper clad aluminum isn't as conductive as copper so throw that factor in. CCA can handle 65-70 amps MAX draw as you say - as it has more resistance than Copper. What if his 4 gauge wire isn't actually 4 gauge? Say by industry standards it's a 6 gauge equivalent... Which many companies are notorious for doing this. What can that wire really handle? On the flip side, box rise won't ever let that amp see a perfect and steady 4 ohms or 1100 watts of output. So quality 4 gauge will more than likely work... But back to what I was saying. It is inadequate. And yes, if I had a t1500 I'd be running 1/0 to that bitch. And yes, Rockford created an amp that could potentially be more efficient... What a surprise that is....

My math is as follows... 100 watts @ 12 volts = 10 amps. That being said, 1100 watts @ 12 volts = 110 amps. I've been under this impression for a couple years now, so correct me if I'm wrong. I never calculate at 14.4 because perfect voltage is a rarity. Like I said, correct me if I'm wrong.