AmericanLegend

What kind of enclosure are you currently running? Upgrading subs only makes sense if you have already built a custom enclosure for the ones you have now. If you have them in a prefab box, it will sound like switching subs if you change the box.

If your box is tuned to 31 hz, then the sub will unload on frequencies lower than that. At 20 hz for example, your sub will be flopping around without any support in that box and will be making almost no sound. If you want to play 20's, tune deeper.

I worked for Best Buy for a while and, when I got there, the lead autotech was building boxes off of specs recommended by kicker. They sounded horrible! The customers that paid custom money for those boxes got screwed because they don't play low bass with that small box and high tuning. You had better design a box to your sub with help from somebody on the forum before you waste your time building a woofer (not SUBwoofer) box....

Actually, painting the port a texture more smooth than wood reduces the reynolds number of the duct, thereby reducing head losses inside the duct. This translates into higher pressures at the low pressure side of the duct as compared to the rougher duct. Also, a smoother duct resists transitions into turbulent flow more effectively than a rough surface duct. Once turbulence sets in, the boundary layer size is increased and effective duct area goes waaaaay down. All things considered, you should have your ports as smoooth as possible, but you likely will not hear the difference except in rare cases.

Don't make a triangle port. It will have three sharp corners to retard the air. If possible, do a square port or, even better, a circle one.

Xmax for the sub is 11.5mm, which seems short for such a huge motor, but it is an extremely POWERFUL motor to couple to a port. Why not use the largest port factor possible? Btw Fs is 29hz and Qts is .34 but thats because the mechanical damping qms is .76.

These particular subs should have a pretty high limit though, which is the nice thing about putting one in a T-line. I am not worried about them electrically, but I wouldn't want them unloading on 2000+ watts to the suspension. Amp for this application have not been finalized, but I am leaning towards the AQ2200 or the Brutus 2400. Gain will be rolled in slowly, but I really wouldn't be crushed if I blew one (or both) of these subs doing a hairtrick lol. These subs are overbuilt (about 70lbs) and I wonder whether that isn't wasted weight over a BTL 12 or something. We are going to see how much abuse this particular sub can take, though and hopefully it sounds good in the process!

Whatever he is, he looks very engaged (like a smart dog). You will probably scratch your head forever, but you know it has some chow in it.

I am the proud owner of a 2004 Mazda 3 S hatchback and a pair of Pioneer TS 5102 SPL subwoofers. These are the Champion Edition that are rated for 2500 watts RMS. Due to current space considerations, I will be running only one of them for my daily setup. Since I will be running a single sub for this system, output levels from the enclosure itself is very important. I had been contemplating building a monster vent ported system, but I have built many of these for people and want my enclosure to be a litle novel and unique. My question is, if I put this sub in a transmission line, what will happen to its mechanical power handling? This speaker has a lot of technology built into it (aramide rubber surrounds, assymmetrical double spider, etc) but will it really take an AP 30001D at 1 ohm bridged without a box to support the cone?