2007TBSS

What do I need to do? Local joint did the power ground. Xtant 604X and Xtant 403a. Fused 150amps at the battery. I think they grounded it to the body?? Does it need a better ground? New battery? I don't have room for a second battery and the budget is stretched as it is. Any help on a cheap option to at least help?

Don't forget to get a form 1 from the ATF before manufacturing that firearm.

Bump fer pic.

I think my next purchase will be a Double Diamond 9mm lower and a Rock River 7.5" upper. 9" Quadrail with a Gemtech hanging out the end. Since I get more indoor range time than outdoor, it would be a good fit. Actual next gun purchase will probably be an M&P15-22 with a little custom engraving for my 18 month old son.

Awesome. Thanks!

Well shit. lol Any suggestions on what I need to change on the slots? Do you lose anything going from slot to Aero Ports?

Craziness. On a side note, that guy tears up a lot of shit.

Needs to be taller and narrower? Any recommendations? I seem to be getting everything the way i want but having trouble figuring out what to change to lower the tune. If I knew one or two dimensions to change to alter the tune, I could stop messing with all the dimensions and focus on a few.

Haha, would a sealed box be even easier? EDIT: Are these numbers close enough or do I need to keep trying?

Would port up subs up make it sound any different and make the adjustment easier?

Well, shit. Do I need to readjust all the outside dimensions so I can make the port taller without hitting the bottom of the subs? Is the gap between the back of the port and the back wall of the box a problem so long as it's wider than the port is tall. In essence, not choking the port or is there some sort of rule of thumb for port clearance? Sorry this is a pain. lol Thanks for the help!

I think this is about as close as I can get it. I can get the port per sq and the volume right but the tune is way off. If I get the Tune and the port right, the net volume is way over.

Dude, this is maddening.

Ok, just to be clear, I want to fire the subs up and port back. Which one is length and which one is width on the box? I need it 46" wide and I think between 8-10" high, so I assume width is from tailgate to back seat? Same with port. Height is 2" width is side to side and length is front to back?

Yes, John Wayne, we can tell. You're printing like hell. Might as well put it in a fanny pack. Lose some weight and try inside waistband. Report back findings.

That would be awesome. I need to get the tune and port dimensions worked out first since I would assume it will change my outside dimensions to accommodate port displacement. Thanks!

Basically, the problem I have is I know the L X W but need to know the height. Also, I have never worked with slotted ports, so I would need all the port dimensions and I'm not sure what to tune at so I don't even know what to type in there. So: 1) Need to know tune frequency 2) Slotted or round ports? Aero ports? 3) If I type in L and W, will it give me H? 4) If I find L, W, and H and tell it I want ported and frequency, will it tell me all box and port dimensions? Edit: OK, now how do I add ports? Is there a formula for port dimensions including frequency tune and box size? The sub specs recommend < 2^3ft per sub ported so I left the length full wide and adjusted width to get just under 4^3ft but I assume that will change by the time I add port displacement?? Sorry for the extreme noob-ness. Thanks for your patience.

I saw the Torres calc but frankly, I'm not sure what half the stuff means. I guess I was wondering if there was a tipping point of the box being *too* shallow and if that would effect sound?

Is there a website or something I can go to and have one designed? I kinda have no idea where to start on this.

Sup guys. Wondered if I could get a little help with a sub enclosure. I got 2 RE SEX12's that will be powered by 300RMS per sub via XTANT amps. My goal is to leave some space for luggage and such in the back of the Trailblazer, so I was considering using the width and length available and keeping the height to a minimum and firing the subs up. Then adding a cover piece of 3/4" and doing some custom aluminum covers for the speakers to keep them from being damaged.(I'm a machinist) I am assuming sealed would be best since I'm not running an insane amount of power to the subs. I'm not looking to compete or have insane amounts of body flex, just a good clean sound for all kinds of music. It would be nice to get a compromise of some low drops and nice tight sounds as well, if that is possible. I'm pretty good with my hands and have access to tools so I would be willing to try about any kind of design within reason. Thanks for your help! Here's the specs for the subs. Recommended Enclosure Specifications Recommended Enclosure Type Ported / Vented Sealed Minimum Sealed Box Volume 0.75 cubic feet Maximum Sealed Box Volume 1.0 cubic feet Minimum Ported Box Volume 1.5 cubic feet Maximum Ported Box Volume 2.0 cubic feet Top-Mount Depth 7" Cutout Diameter 11-1/4" Shallow Mount Installation No Space available is about 46" wide by 31" deep. Height unknown. Amps pic just for fun. EDIT: All Done. Get installed Thursday.

Depending on your budget, I'd say your best bet for a beginner would be a random orbital. I use the Griots with 5" hydr-tech pads. For simplicity sake, I'd recommend using the tangerine pads with some Meguiars 205 polish. Wash with a heavy concentration of Dawn dishsoap to remove wax. I use a microfiber mitt and soak the whole car down with suds to start a nice soak before washing the whole car. Do from the body seam up and then go back and do rockers and bumpers. Use two buckets with grit guards to keep from doing further damage to the paint. Also use two buckets grit guards and microfiber EVERY time you wash. Then dry blowing out all cracks, emblems and crevices ect. This video is awesome for explanation. Claybar. I like the Mothers kit you can buy at any auto parts store. It has a nice gentle clay and it smells like cinnamon which is the tits. Tear each claybar in half, flatten to the size of a golf bal. Lots of spray, GENTLY rub the clay back and forth one panel at a time and wipe dry. Then go to the next panel. Tape off all trim and mirrors ect with painters tape. Spritz your pad with a couple sprays of detailers spray and then add 3 small dime sized dots of polish on the pad. Before turning on the polisher, press the pad onto the paint in a few spots to prevent polish sling. Put polisher ON THE PAINT BEFORE YOU TURN IT ON. Do a 24" X 24" spot at a time and do 3 passes. One pass consists of side to side, down with about 1/3rd of a pad overlap, repeat. Then up and down = 1 pass. Spray a couple spritzes on the polish and wipe clean with a good clean microfiber. I use Meguiars M34 for wipe off. Move to another spot and repeat until you have covered the whole car. Wash again with heavy concentration of dish soap. Dry well, blow out all cracks ect. I use a leaf blower for this. Apply 3 coats of a good quality wax, do tires with a water based tire gel such as the Optimum Tire Gel and enjoy.

Now they can be done for $1500?? I have been out of audio for about 10 years, at least so far as having expendable cash to build systems from the ground up. I remember when an in dash DVD player with LCD screen cost close to $2000 and a D-Class 1000 X 1 amp cost $1500. Of course there were amps that advertised 500 watts for less than a grand but you didn't want them in your car and they were succeptable to blowing magic smoke at any moment. Anyone else remember when amps for $1/watt was the norm?

I'm using Opera Mini with "single column view" and the full site works perfect.